[3ggerhappy]

Other way around - exactly in reverse to your pic

Dang, Thanks for the confirmation, first time doing this and I got it wrong the first time.

 

[dontfeedphils]

Dang, Thanks for the confirmation, first time doing this and I got it wrong the first time.

FYI, a decent DMM can be had for quite cheap and makes it easy to verify these sort of things.

 

[3ggerhappy]

FYI, a decent DMM can be had for quite cheap and makes it easy to verify these sort of things.

Yeah, ordered one actually but its taking its time to arrive due to the covid situation. Also do not know how to properly use it still(except maybe basic continuity feature) I'll go experiment when it arrives.

 

[doctorjuggles]

Yeah, ordered one actually but its taking its time to arrive due to the covid situation. Also do not know how to properly use it still(except maybe basic continuity feature) I'll go experiment when it arrives.

Until it arrives, it's worth sharing that every standard connector I've used so far (2.5mm/3.5mm/4.4mm) has always worked back to front - so the tip of the connector is usually the smallest part of the soldering end (and the furthest away from the tip) and works its way back. Make sense? If not I'll try and draw a rough diagram for what I mean

 

[3ggerhappy]

Until it arrives, it's worth sharing that every standard connector I've used so far (2.5mm/3.5mm/4.4mm) has always worked back to front - so the tip of the connector is usually the smallest part of the soldering end (and the furthest away from the tip) and works its way back. Make sense? If not I'll try and draw a rough diagram for what I mean

Makes sense

 

[doctorjuggles]

The multimeter makes building things much easier though. I used to fret about which wires were which and drew on them or wrapped coloured thread - now I just solder and braid and then worry about which one is which at the end (or at least once it’s time to do the split)

 

[shrimants]

so this is probably a real dumb question. I did look through all the gallery images to see if I could make this out from someone's pic but no luck. The eidolic connectors I have (2.5mm TRRS and 3.5mm TRS) seem to just be hollow barrels on the "wire" side. What do you guys do to plug that hole up? They came with some rubber plug looking things but they dont really fit all that great.

Do you just melt hot glue into there? or some form of epoxy? Or is there some specific way to use heat shrink tubing?

Same question goes for the cable splitter, its a hollow tube with one end wide open and the other end having a 2-hole sort of design, which I assume is for splitting the wire off between left/right sides.

how do you guys provide strain relief? or is the glue/heat shink enough to strain relief?

Still hoping someone in this thread has used the eidolic connectors.

 

[dontfeedphils]

Still hoping someone in this thread has used the eidolic connectors.

I use Eidolic connectors and just used some heatshrink over the connections inside the connector and left it long enough that it protrudes from inside the connector a bit for strain relief.

 

[shrimants]

I use Eidolic connectors and just used some heatshrink over the connections inside the connector and left it long enough that it protrudes from inside the connector a bit for strain relief.

no glue/epoxy inside the connector?

 

[dontfeedphils]

no glue/epoxy inside the connector?

Naw, I don't really see much of a reason. I suppose it may depend on the wire you're using though. If it's flimsy and a small gauge then maybe, otherwise a solid solder joint and heat shrink should be just fine.

 

[qsk78]

Hello. I plan to make XLR interconnect cables based on Viablue NF-S1 which has two shields.
While the XLR connector has just one pin for the shield. Should I twist both shields of the cable together and solder them to 1 pin? Should I use only the outer shield of the cable?
Thank you.

 

[Speedskater]

If both shields are braids, you could:
a] use one
b] use both
c] connect the inner at both ends, and the outer at the send end (if the unit is powered), for a mic do the opposite.

If one shield is braid and the other is foil or spiral:
a] use the braid

If both shields are spiral
a] use both shields

 

[qsk78]

Thank you. This is how actually it looks like

Four shields "Quattro Silver“

• •2 silvered spiral shields
• •2 ALU-PET foil shields

 

[Speedskater]

Lets get creative!
So if the foils have drain wires:
Both spirals at both ends
one foil at one end
the other foil at the other end

But at the end of the day, in the residential real world, it won't make any difference which way you connect them in an XLR balanced interconnect.
(balanced XLR interconnects are much more robust [noise & interference wise] than unbalanced RCA interconnects)

 

[Sunstealer]

Well it's taken a while and lots of mistakes and practice cables but have finally made one I like:

Thanks to @Saturnian, Cosmic Cables for the wire: 6N copper and 6N SPC. 4.4mm from CEMA. I don't mind the red heat shrink but will probably use clear in future. I tried those 6mm rubber jack plugs but it was a tight fit. Any other suggestions?

I use threaded connectors so I can change from 2 pin to MMCX when I'm testing new IEMs.

I have some 4N silver cable from CEMA so will get started on that soon. Also made a 4W 7N copper cable that looks great.