DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread

[cyph3r]

hi all,

does anyone know a source for lead-free, preferably RoHs compliant bulk headphone cable that is already braided?

 

[Paladin79]

Most of that cable I have seen comes out of China and unless the wires have been tinned I doubt if it involves hazardous substances other than the wrong type of pvc.

Chances are they would not provide proper documentation anyway. Since it is shipped between countries theoretically it should be compliant.

 

[kingkikapu]

You ever wire one of those bucket capacitors backwards? I used to do that to old CRT’s for kicks.

I might have an old wrought iron crucible somewhere, but the copper cap is quite thick. It should work fine if I fan it slowly. I like to make my neighbours guess what I’m up to.

 

[Paladin79]

I was pretty careful with those caps so no.

As long as it is fairly thick copper you may be safe. The solder itself will conduct heat and act as a heat sink. Anything that conducts electricity well acts the same way with heat. I have small camp stoves that use propane, something like that would distribute the heat. When I think of a torch, I think of more focused heat.

 

[musicmaker]

The Kester solder bar is ginormous ! How do you guys cut it ? hack saw ?

 

[Allanmarcus]

The Kester solder bar is ginormous ! How do you guys cut it ? hack saw ?

Suck on it until it softens.

 

[john777]

Usually works the other way...

 

[Paladin79]

Hacksaw works, we also have some giant cable cutters about like a bolt cutter that works.

Once a solder pot is going, just holding the bar upright in some molten solder is all you need do but cutting a small piece first helps.

 

[HirschiAUT]

This should help more, I solder the ground (braid) first then the center conductor.

Here are the assembly instructions from Neutrik.

Thanks a lot to both of you!
I already ordered the slimline cable and connectors, will let you know how it worked out and what pinout worked

One more thing though, regarding another project.

Just for the heck of it i want to build this:

https://robrobinette.com/RobinetteBox.htm

The hardest part should be to get all the parts in Europe, the explanation is very good and easy to understand.
There is just one thing i am wondering about, and its the wires to use for internal connections.

Rob just states that the size should be 22, 20 or 18 AWG, but no quality comments.

First thing i thought of was to just do the same as for my headphone cable, just strip some wire and use that.
I would have thought of something like this:

http://shop.sommercable.com/Kabel/Meterware-Audio/Mikrofonkabel-SC-Primus-200-0151.html

It is 0,5mm², that should be ~20AWG.
I can get it for 1,7€ / Meter, so effectively 0,85€ / meter.

While researching for more options i found out about the term "hookup wire", and gawd you can dump a lot of cash on that one...

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/hookup-wire.html

The cheapest option, the OEM stranded 20AWG wire, costs ~ 0,4€ / meter, so half the price of stripping the sommer cable.
BUT it is not stated as OFC, the sommer cable is on the other hand.

Then the cheapskate in me stepped up and thought, why not use 2x0.75mm² speaker wires, like these:

https://www.amazon.de/Wentronic-2X0-75-Lautsprecherkabel-Querschnitt-transparent/dp/B001C6HPGS

They are labled as OFC and cost 0,33€ / meter, so effectively 0,17€ / meter wire!
0,75mm² would also be on the thicker end of his recommendation, sitting somewhere between 19 and 18AWG.

SO, yeah, i am really asking myself how much i should spend to not compromise the overall quality.
But, tbh, i dont really see the reason of using 5N copper for horrendous amounts of money, when the speaker binding posts are gold plated brass...

As always I would really appretiate any input!

 

[Paladin79]

You are talking about a lot of different types of wire and as you get into larger gauges like 18 awg it will be harder to solder properly in that circuitry. The Sommer cable is shielded and twisted pair from what I can tell, you should have excellent results with it plus both channels and a ground are present.

 

[HirschiAUT]

You are talking about a lot of different types of wire and as you get into larger gauges like 18 awg it will be harder to solder properly in that circuitry. The Sommer cable is shielded and twisted pair from what I can tell, you should have excellent results with it plus both channels and a ground are present.

I dont really know how i should use the sommer cable like it is for the inner wiring of the adapter box, am i missing something?
In the pictures there are only single wires, i would have stripped the SOmmer, and also split the speaker wire...

I am more concerned about the conductor quality that is required / makes sense.

 

[Allanmarcus]

Don't use stranded hookup wire inside that box. I made a switch box with stranded wire, and it was a pain. It's much easier, and better, to use solid core wire. Pretty much any decent solid core copper or silver insulated wire will work. Your local hardware or electronics store should have some. 20, 22, or 24 AWG should be fine.

 

[musicmaker]

Hacksaw works, we also have some giant cable cutters about like a bolt cutter that works.

Once a solder pot is going, just holding the bar upright in some molten solder is all you need do but cutting a small piece first helps.

Thank you. You're always so helpful ! Much appreciated.

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

Hacksaw works, we also have some giant cable cutters about like a bolt cutter that works.
Once a solder pot is going, just holding the bar upright in some molten solder is all you need do but cutting a small piece first helps.

Right on. I personally use a jigsaw to cut the first little piece

Don't use stranded hookup wire inside that box. I made a switch box with stranded wire, and it was a pain. It's much easier, and better, to use solid core wire. Pretty much any decent solid core copper or silver insulated wire will work. Your local hardware or electronics store should have some. 20, 22, or 24 AWG should be fine.

Also agreed (unless you really prefer the sound of a certain wire, I like Cardas 2x24 and 4x24 with the shield when wiring up amps). Neotech makes a fantastic solid core UP-OCC wire in teflon for about a buck a foot. I've used it for many switchboxes, Bottlehead builds and Dynaco restorations. The hardware store wire is great on a budget. You can ask if they have any discount remnants too. Also a good budget choice is Cat 5e ethernet wire (solid core in teflon) and surplus silver plated solid core copper in teflon at Apex Jr.

 

[Paladin79]

Solid wire is indeed a good choice but of the choices there, I chose the one I might use. I can work with either stranded or solid wire equally well with the connectors shown. XlR's and binding posts have fairly large openings. Solid wire is more suitable in situations where the wire does not get moved much as it would in a headphone cable or some interconnect cables and it does conduct a bit better. I have plenty of high end stranded, shielded wire so I use it on Bottlehead builds rather than doing the braiding. Twisted pair is good, shielded twisted pair is better. I am afraid I looked at the internals of that box and the first thing that came to mind was how I would wire it, I did the same with Bottlehead Crack amps I built and unfortunately that is not a lot of help to a novice DIY person.

I have also done Dynaco builds and it is good to hear you are redoing some of those Highflyin, I just got an add the other day from someone selling Dynaco 70's for $3,000 each, I believe they were reproductions but I did not read it that closely. I have seen some of your switchbox and Bottlehead builds on your website as I recall and the work was most impressive and you go out of your way to document and explain the work to DIY folks which I also admire. I could be wrong but I believe you even used the Steampunk style on an amp or two, a style I used myself to impress a local sci fi group.