liquidzoo
1000+ Head-Fier
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- Apr 9, 2012
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repost x4
Reposting this here from a lot of threads:
Figured I'd ask here.
I gotta recable my Grado SR325i, never done this before, but I did desolder one cup.|
Here's a list of what I plan to get:
[COLOR=660000]Mogami W2534[/COLOR] 7 ft
[COLOR=421818]Rean Neutrik NYS228G[/COLOR]
What else do I need? Heat shrink, right? I have a soldering iron and stuff.
Also when it comes to the y-point do I strip the tubes and just combine the wires?
Never done this before, so I'm a bit unsure of how to go about doing this.
Thanks!
Mogami 2534 might be a little stiff, but it will work. I use 2893 or 2799 (literally the same except for some added shielding, which I remove anyway)
If you're going to strip the outer shielding off of the cable, do it before you start, and label both ends of at least 1 of the wires you want to go to the L/R (2534 has 2 blue and 2 clear-ish wires, for the sake of this post, I will assume clear for signal and blue for ground, label both sides of one of the clear, again for the sake of this post I will call this the Left Signal wire)
I normally braid first, solder second. Braid all but however long you want your Y-Split length to be, you can put a bit of heatshrink, hot glue, whatever at the Y-Split if you want (some don't, if you do it right the wires will hold together from what I've read).
Take your left signal and one of the blue wires and twist them around eachother (example of what I'm talking about on the LCDs here) Do the same with the other pair.
Solder your left signal wire to the left headphone speaker on the signal side, the blue wire in that group on the ground side. Do the same for the Right.
On the plug side, solder the Left Signal wire to the Tip , the Right Signal to the Ring, and twist the 2 other wires together and solder to the sleeve. Make sure you put the collar for the plug on the wires before you solder them so you can screw it in when you're done.