DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Nov 16, 2015 at 7:03 PM Post #4,426 of 10,535
What solder is everyone using?

In school I discovered how much I hated the lead-free solder. The 60/40 mix melted quite well.

I have no doubt this is as hotly contested as the cable issue, but is there a sound change with using different kinds of solder?
 
Nov 16, 2015 at 7:16 PM Post #4,427 of 10,535
What solder is everyone using?

In school I discovered how much I hated the lead-free solder. The 60/40 mix melted quite well.

I have no doubt this is as hotly contested as the cable issue, but is there a sound change with using different kinds of solder?

I use Cardas Quad.Tin,lead,copper and silver. I love it don't know if there is a difference in sound but it just works great.
 
Nov 16, 2015 at 8:29 PM Post #4,428 of 10,535
Wise Ones,
 
I have question regarding the balance-ability of my B&O H6.  This headphone uses a removable cable which can be connected to either cup.  (The connector on this  cable can be 3.5TRRS or 3.5TRS.)   I have a new dual-mono balanced amp, and I am thinking that I should be able to run cables to both cups of the H6 simultaneously  and achieve balanced drive, as long as I sever the connection between the two drivers which runs through the headband.  
 
Is this wrong?  Does anyone see any flaw in my reasoning?  (never mind the whole validity of balanced argument . . . ) 
 
In advance, thanks !
 
d
 
Nov 16, 2015 at 9:09 PM Post #4,429 of 10,535
  Wise Ones,
 
I have question regarding the balance-ability of my B&O H6.  This headphone uses a removable cable which can be connected to either cup.  (The connector on this  cable can be 3.5TRRS or 3.5TRS.)   I have a new dual-mono balanced amp, and I am thinking that I should be able to run cables to both cups of the H6 simultaneously  and achieve balanced drive, as long as I sever the connection between the two drivers which runs through the headband.  
 
Is this wrong?  Does anyone see any flaw in my reasoning?  (never mind the whole validity of balanced argument . . . ) 
 
In advance, thanks !
 
d

It's weird that you can put it in either side unless they have wires for both side running in each cup for the other side. I mean not hard to do just a little weird. In order not to blow up your amp you need to make sure that the left and right negatives are separate . I think that would mean cracking the cans open. They still could have the negatives connected on both sides. Cutting the wires in the headband should work but make sure to check it with a meter to be sure. There still could be some stuff on the connector in the cans that could cause a problem though. Now that I think about it you would have to use TRRS connectors on both side and wire it not using the tip on the other side that might work but not having it to check I can't be sure. I know this doesn't help much be I gave it a shot. 
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 8:42 AM Post #4,430 of 10,535
  It's weird that you can put it in either side unless they have wires for both side running in each cup for the other side. I mean not hard to do just a little weird. In order not to blow up your amp you need to make sure that the left and right negatives are separate . I think that would mean cracking the cans open. They still could have the negatives connected on both sides. Cutting the wires in the headband should work but make sure to check it with a meter to be sure. There still could be some stuff on the connector in the cans that could cause a problem though. Now that I think about it you would have to use TRRS connectors on both side and wire it not using the tip on the other side that might work but not having it to check I can't be sure. I know this doesn't help much be I gave it a shot. 

 
Thanks for the reply.  Yeah, it`s a little weird - the concept is the headphone is daisy-chain-able: I can connect to a source and then you can patch in to the free side of my headphone.  I think it was a Beats thing, which I doubt anyone uses.  Anyway, I just compared two cables, one in either side, the stock cable and a Furutech aftermarket cable, and took turns plugging them into my AK to try to hear a difference.  The stock cable is TRRS and the Furutech is TRS; I couldn`t hear any clear difference though I had a vague impression the stock cable was giving a little more bass and detail.  Placebo is wonderful.  
 
So I think I`ll take a deep breath and snip the wires in the headband, if I can disassemble it.   
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 9:04 AM Post #4,431 of 10,535
Thanks for the reply.  Yeah, it`s a little weird - the concept is the headphone is daisy-chain-able: I can connect to a source and then you can patch in to the free side of my headphone.  I think it was a Beats thing, which I doubt anyone uses.  Anyway, I just compared two cables, one in either side, the stock cable and a Furutech aftermarket cable, and took turns plugging them into my AK to try to hear a difference.  The stock cable is TRRS and the Furutech is TRS; I couldn`t hear any clear difference though I had a vague impression the stock cable was giving a little more bass and detail.  Placebo is wonderful.  

So I think I`ll take a deep breath and snip the wires in the headband, if I can disassemble it.   


Same thought crossed my mind to make it a balanced cable with solid core UPOCC to give the sound more body, but I simply do not know where to begin to disassemble the headphone housings. Good luck and please share your success story/photos! Thanks.
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 9:21 AM Post #4,432 of 10,535
  Wise Ones,
 
I have question regarding the balance-ability of my B&O H6.  This headphone uses a removable cable which can be connected to either cup.  (The connector on this  cable can be 3.5TRRS or 3.5TRS.)   I have a new dual-mono balanced amp, and I am thinking that I should be able to run cables to both cups of the H6 simultaneously  and achieve balanced drive, as long as I sever the connection between the two drivers which runs through the headband.  
 
Is this wrong?  Does anyone see any flaw in my reasoning?  (never mind the whole validity of balanced argument . . . ) 
 
In advance, thanks !
 
d

You don't have to cut the cord between the drivers, you just need to run TWO TRRS connectors, one to each cup. For the right just use the 2 poles that are designated to the right driver through either cup and obviously for the left use the 2 poles that are designated to the left driver through both cups. So, no matter which connector you put into either cup, you will have a balanced connection. One half of the cable will carry ONLY the right driver's positive and negative, and the other half will carry only the left driver's positive and negative. Don't modify the headphone to achieve this, it is already ready for this. Hopefully you understand what I'm saying here and don't reduce the value of your H6 by cutting into it.
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 5:19 PM Post #4,433 of 10,535
  You don't have to cut the cord between the drivers, you just need to run TWO TRRS connectors, one to each cup. For the right just use the 2 poles that are designated to the right driver through either cup and obviously for the left use the 2 poles that are designated to the left driver through both cups. So, no matter which connector you put into either cup, you will have a balanced connection. One half of the cable will carry ONLY the right driver's positive and negative, and the other half will carry only the left driver's positive and negative. Don't modify the headphone to achieve this, it is already ready for this. Hopefully you understand what I'm saying here and don't reduce the value of your H6 by cutting into it.

 
   
Thanks for the reply.  Yeah, it`s a little weird - the concept is the headphone is daisy-chain-able: I can connect to a source and then you can patch in to the free side of my headphone.  I think it was a Beats thing, which I doubt anyone uses.  Anyway, I just compared two cables, one in either side, the stock cable and a Furutech aftermarket cable, and took turns plugging them into my AK to try to hear a difference.  The stock cable is TRRS and the Furutech is TRS; I couldn`t hear any clear difference though I had a vague impression the stock cable was giving a little more bass and detail.  Placebo is wonderful.  
 
So I think I`ll take a deep breath and snip the wires in the headband, if I can disassemble it.   

Dopaminer I think Peterek might be right about not cutting the wires in the headband . The pass thru thing just bugs me though. I am not sure you need two trrs connectors if the negatives aren't combined somewhere in the phones. The only reason for two trrs connectors is if you cut the wires between cups. Is your stock cable Trrs on both ends. If it is Trrs on the phones and trs on the plug in to the player you will not hear any difference and shouldn't be used in balanced mode. I don't have a AK( whichever model you have) I know some do have balanced outs and don't know if it different plugs or a switch but if you are not balanced on both ends you will not hear a difference. Does the cable come with a mic on it? If it does I doubt it is set up for balanced use. The only way to tell is sticking a trrs plug into it and checking with a meter. Just don't run a single ended setup on a balanced output.
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 6:42 PM Post #4,434 of 10,535
You would absolutely need two TRRS connectors to run them balanced with dual entry. I'm 100% certain. Likely, the grounds will be the Sleeve and the lower Ring spot so when a TRS connector is used the ground of the TRS will contact both the lower ring and the sleeve of the TRRS female on the headphone. If you were to use two TRS instead of two TRRS you would be sharing grounds for both drivers but would have separate signals. Do not do that. I'm telling you, you need two TRRS or just run one single TRRS and stop trying to run them dual entry, you won't even benefit from it in anyway other than curing an itch for dual entry. The T and 2nd ring position should be signal and ground for the left driver, and the first ring position and the sleeve should be signal and ground for the right driver. I don't want to draw a diagram of how these are wired, but I will if you guys still don't totally understand.
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 7:08 PM Post #4,435 of 10,535
You would absolutely need two TRRS connectors to run them balanced with dual entry. I'm 100% certain. Likely, the grounds will be the Sleeve and the lower Ring spot so when a TRS connector is used the ground of the TRS will contact both the lower ring and the sleeve of the TRRS female on the headphone. If you were to use two TRS instead of two TRRS you would be sharing grounds for both drivers but would have separate signals. Do not do that. I'm telling you, you need two TRRS or just run one single TRRS and stop trying to run them dual entry, you won't even benefit from it in anyway other than curing an itch for dual entry. The T and 2nd ring position should be signal and ground for the left driver, and the first ring position and the sleeve should be signal and ground for the right driver. I don't want to draw a diagram of how these are wired, but I will if you guys still don't totally understand.

That is what I was getting at you only need one trrs connector in one side. Yes two trs would blow your balanced amp up.I didn't understand he wanted dual entry only. If he wanted dual entry then yes two trrs connectors would be needed and they could be put in either side and it wouldn't matter( if that is how these are wired I don't know I don't have them). I believe the Trrs pinout is Tip L+ first ring R+ second ring L- and sleeve R-.
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 9:44 PM Post #4,436 of 10,535
  That is what I was getting at you only need one trrs connector in one side. Yes two trs would blow your balanced amp up.I didn't understand he wanted dual entry only. If he wanted dual entry then yes two trrs connectors would be needed and they could be put in either side and it wouldn't matter( if that is how these are wired I don't know I don't have them). I believe the Trrs pinout is Tip L+ first ring R+ second ring L- and sleeve R-.

Yeah I know, it seemed like he really wanted to do dual entry. I assumed that because he basically stated that he knew he could do balanced with one single TRRS but then brought up that he wanted to make a dual entry cable.
 
That pinout makes the most sense to me if it can use TRS and TRRS with the same 3.5mm female connector.
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 10:19 PM Post #4,437 of 10,535
  Yeah I know, it seemed like he really wanted to do dual entry. I assumed that because he basically stated that he knew he could do balanced with one single TRRS but then brought up that he wanted to make a dual entry cable.
 
That pinout makes the most sense to me if it can use TRS and TRRS with the same 3.5mm female connector.

I wouldn't trust it unless I could test it though. That pass thru thing just has me wondering what else is going on.
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 10:23 PM Post #4,438 of 10,535
 
  Yeah I know, it seemed like he really wanted to do dual entry. I assumed that because he basically stated that he knew he could do balanced with one single TRRS but then brought up that he wanted to make a dual entry cable.
 
That pinout makes the most sense to me if it can use TRS and TRRS with the same 3.5mm female connector.

I wouldn't trust it unless I could test it though. That pass thru thing just has me wondering what else is going on.

I'm sure it's nothing man, it's just for convenience. I like my single entry cables on the left, some people like it on the right.
 
Nov 17, 2015 at 10:29 PM Post #4,439 of 10,535
  You don't have to cut the cord between the drivers, you just need to run TWO TRRS connectors, one to each cup. For the right just use the 2 poles that are designated to the right driver through either cup and obviously for the left use the 2 poles that are designated to the left driver through both cups. So, no matter which connector you put into either cup, you will have a balanced connection. One half of the cable will carry ONLY the right driver's positive and negative, and the other half will carry only the left driver's positive and negative. Don't modify the headphone to achieve this, it is already ready for this. Hopefully you understand what I'm saying here and don't reduce the value of your H6 by cutting into it.

 
 
Brilliant.  Yes, I get it, makes perfect sense.  No disassembly required.  Thanks PETEREK ! 
 
 
This is the amp I just bought, a Ratoc Audio Labs REX-KEB03.  It has 3.5 TRS output and twin 2.5mm outputs for dual mono cables. The right 2.5 output is also stereo TRRS, for AK-balanced cables. 
 

 

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