DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Dec 19, 2014 at 4:39 PM Post #2,957 of 10,535
  Has anyone here dealt with Sonic Craft before?
 
https://www.soniccraft.com/
 
They have good pricing on UPOCC copper and Sennheiser connectors, and are located in the USA.


Yes, Soniccraft is an excellent business.  I've dealt with them many times.  Their Gen II film caps are standard on the output of the Millett Hybrid MiniMAX, now - after I ran out of Vitamin Q's.
 
Dec 19, 2014 at 9:04 PM Post #2,958 of 10,535
Hey everyone, I got a cable from Audeze brand new. The problem is one of the channels doesn't work at all (I got a replacement after) and I would like to fix it, I was wondering where should I look first or what should I change first.Thanks! 
 
Dec 19, 2014 at 9:29 PM Post #2,959 of 10,535
Hey everyone, I got a cable from Audeze brand new. The problem is one of the channels doesn't work at all (I got a replacement after) and I would like to fix it, I was wondering where should I look first or what should I change first.Thanks! 


Hmm...thats not good......ok, so do you have DMM? You have to check the continuity test between the ends of associated points using the buzzer.......
 
Dec 19, 2014 at 11:23 PM Post #2,960 of 10,535
Hmm...thats not good......ok, so do you have DMM? You have to check the continuity test between the ends of associated points using the buzzer.......

I wanted to buy a cheap one, at least to have it just in case at home (20$ range) if you have any recommendations please let me know. 
 
However, how do you test continuity? do you connect first to a source and what would be the next step?
 
Dec 20, 2014 at 12:00 AM Post #2,961 of 10,535
I wanted to buy a cheap one, at least to have it just in case at home (20$ range) if you have any recommendations please let me know. 

However, how do you test continuity? do you connect first to a source and what would be the next step?


No source,but with a dmm.....ok pls tell me whats the issue with the cable? I'd posted about continuity testing some thread here....let me chk.
 
Dec 20, 2014 at 2:09 AM Post #2,962 of 10,535
I wanted to buy a cheap one, at least to have it just in case at home (20$ range) if you have any recommendations please let me know. 

However, how do you test continuity? do you connect first to a source and what would be the next step?


I'm using a $5.00 one from harbor freight
Does the job
Don't need anything fancy for continuity
And DC voltage
 
Dec 20, 2014 at 3:25 AM Post #2,964 of 10,535
  I wanted to buy a cheap one, at least to have it just in case at home (20$ range) if you have any recommendations please let me know. 
 
However, how do you test continuity? do you connect first to a source and what would be the next step?

 
A simple way to put it, if the metal points of the DMM connect, it will buzz. So put 1 metal in one end of the cable (or polarity to be exact), put the other in the other end of the cable, and it should buzz. When you find 1 (or more) polarity that doesn't buzz, you found your problem. 
 
You don't actually need something with a buzzer (although a buzzer is a nice feature), just a plain ohm meter would do. When the metal touch, the number will start 'dancing', instead of showing just '1'. So when you find a polarity that the reading stay at '1', there's your problem. 
 
Dec 20, 2014 at 5:14 AM Post #2,965 of 10,535
I completed my microphone mod on my AD700s, but the connectors don't fit right, it's too loose so it doesn't make a good connection and stops working when I move. 
 

 
 
 
 
Any suggestions for what connectors to use? 
 
Dec 20, 2014 at 6:23 AM Post #2,966 of 10,535
I wanted to buy a cheap one, at least to have it just in case at home (20$ range) if you have any recommendations please let me know. 

However, how do you test continuity? do you connect first to a source and what would be the next step?


Ok,....so you have a quick easy guide from creatip now......easy. Just be sure about checking between the ends....especially with the neutriks if you dont have 3.5/6.3mm jacks,as Im not sure what type cable you have tho...
 
Dec 20, 2014 at 10:03 AM Post #2,967 of 10,535
How easy/difficult would it be to make an extension cable for a Stax electrostatic Lambda Nova set?
 
Dec 20, 2014 at 2:21 PM Post #2,969 of 10,535
Right, the cable on my Shure SE215's died and instead of getting another stock cable, I plucked for the FiiO RC-SE1. Unfortunately due to it's size, it didn't pair well with my iPhone and kept popping out all to often. Despite having very limited soldering knowledge, I decided to change the jack to something that would be seated better. I chose Switchcraft 35HDBAU (the standard 3.5mm straight jack), watched a few videos on YouTube and felt that I was ready for the task. Without thinking too much, I cut off the old jack and realised that all the wires are actually braided and none of them are colour coded. Now I have a cable with 8 strands (which all look exactly the same to me) and no idea how I'm supposed to know which is left, right and ground. Could anyone shed some light on the solution?

Also, a friend said that he had done some guitar cables in the past and said that doing only the left and right is sufficient (while all the videos I had did in fact, solder ground). Is there any truth to what he's saying?

I attached a few pictures and links to better illustrate my issue.
 
Cable - http://www.fiio.net/en/products/10
Jack - http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=427
 

 

 

 
Dec 20, 2014 at 5:27 PM Post #2,970 of 10,535
Right, the cable on my Shure SE215's died and instead of getting another stock cable, I plucked for the FiiO RC-SE1. Unfortunately due to it's size, it didn't pair well with my iPhone and kept popping out all to often. Despite having very limited soldering knowledge, I decided to change the jack to something that would be seated better. I chose Switchcraft 35HDBAU (the standard 3.5mm straight jack), watched a few videos on YouTube and felt that I was ready for the task. Without thinking too much, I cut off the old jack and realised that all the wires are actually braided and none of them are colour coded. Now I have a cable with 8 strands (which all look exactly the same to me) and no idea how I'm supposed to know which is left, right and ground. Could anyone shed some light on the solution?


Also, a friend said that he had done some guitar cables in the past and said that doing only the left and right is sufficient (while all the videos I had did in fact, solder ground). Is there any truth to what he's saying?


I attached a few pictures and links to better illustrate my issue.

Cable - http://www.fiio.net/en/products/10
Jack - http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=427










You'll be needing a DMM to check for the wire's continuity to find out which wires go to the left driver and which wires go to the right. Every driver has two terminals - one for the signal and one for ground. The ground is common for both drivers but leads are different for left and right.
 

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