[NotaLefty]

I'm using wire from Radio Shack and 325 paracord from Michaels.

 

[Kamakahah]

I'm using wire from Radio Shack and 325 paracord from Michaels.

Do you know what gauge wire? Is it insulated? If you can link it, that would help.

 

[NotaLefty]

I have no idea, sorry. It was laying around and I was told it was from Radio Shack. Could you link me to what I should be using?

 

[Kamakahah]

I have no idea, sorry. It was laying around and I was told it was from Radio Shack. Could you link me to what I should be using?

It's just difficult to assess the problem without being able to see the wire. It could be any number of issues our simply technique.

 

[NotaLefty]

The wire feels like it has almost no substance to it, much like a thread. I try to push it into the paracord but it simply will not go in. I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing, I just want a new cable on the cheap.

 

[i luvmusic 2]

325 Paracord can take 2 conductor  26awg Mogami 2534 3 conductor will be really tight PITA. 

 

[ThurstonX]

  I'm using wire from Radio Shack and 325 paracord from Michaels.

 
No idea if this will help you, but if you haven't tried it... Put a very small amount of tape around the tips (I like blue painter's tape).  Make sure it's as tight as you can make, as you don't want to increase the thickness of the wire too much.  You don't need much tape at all, so trim excess once you've got the tape around it twice.  Leave a few millimeters of tape past the end of the wire.  When pressed, the tape extension will likely be somewhat flat.  Use some small, precision scissors to trim the tape into a tapered point, and try to round the end a little (less likely to snag).  Basically, you want one edge of the tape that extends beyond the wire angling toward the end of the other edge.
 
It might sound more complicated than it is, but it takes less than a minute to do, and I've had great success avoiding snags.  It's still a PITA to inch worm the paracord over the wire, but having the tape-stiffened end makes it much easier to feel your way through the process.  I've got it to the point where it's a mindless enough process that I can watch TV while doing it, very rarely looking down.  And when you get a feel for it, you can sense a snag coming and back it out a bit to reorient the taped end and/or your fingers.
 
Of course, the paracord needs to fit over the wire(s) to begin with.  The tape method works with a single, flimsy wire (silk served Litz, e.g.), as well as twisted bundles (stripped out 4-wire Mogami, e.g.).
 
Good luck.

 

[NotaLefty]

I think my biggest problem right now is I don't know exactly what materials I should be using. If I'm trying to make a cable with a 1/4" jack and dual-entry into headphones, could you provide me a shopping list of what I need?  I'm trying to make a braided cable similar to this one. http://static.squarespace.com/static/536d72eae4b06672a7c8b88a/543d82dfe4b07d76437bf209/54442bf9e4b08813902c5ed3/1413753875473/unnamed2.jpg?format=1500w

 

[ThurstonX]

  I think my biggest problem right now is I don't know exactly what materials I should be using. If I'm trying to make a cable with a 1/4" jack and dual-entry into headphones, could you provide me a shopping list of what I need?  I'm trying to make a braided cable similar to this one. http://static.squarespace.com/static/536d72eae4b06672a7c8b88a/543d82dfe4b07d76437bf209/54442bf9e4b08813902c5ed3/1413753875473/unnamed2.jpg?format=1500w

 
Four wires: buy some Mogami or whatever (Redco in the US has the best price on W2799, e.g., which uses four different colors, making it easier; works out to about $0.18/ft per wire)... then strip off the outer sheath and remove the copper shield.
 
95 paracord (Paracord Planet has a ridiculous selection).  Separate the four wires.  Use the end-taping method, described previously.  Feed them through.  PITA, but definitely doable (I just did it).  Braid.  At the 'Y' split just pair off two wires going to each side of the cans.  Try to keep them twisted before you solder the connectors.  Tape is your friend.
 
Don't pull the paracord too tight over the wires.  No need.
 
I posted photos of a HiFiMAN cable I made using this method.  Search this thread.  Personally, the open 'Y' split looks better than trying to cover it with something, but YMMV.
 
NB: you really want to plan the entire job before starting.  Step 1, Step 2, etc., though with this type it's pretty straight forward.  Measure, cut, sleeve, solder the 1/4" plug, anchor, braid, solder can connectors.  Easy peasy 

 

[Arty McGhee]

  The wire feels like it has almost no substance to it, much like a thread. I try to push it into the paracord but it simply will not go in. I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing, I just want a new cable on the cheap.

definitely try the tape thing a very small piece will do
for 550 paracord 3-4 strands of 24-26 awg will fit fine
i keep some stiff cheap wire ($5 spool from flea market)
feed a single strand of the stiff wire through the paracord
twist the ends and solder the 3-4 strands to the thick wire
wrap a bit of tape around it so it doesnt snag and pull the whole thing through
works well with the 25 awg mogami i use
 
for the type 1 i suggest trying a few different types and sizes
paracord planet has all kinds of stuff even if you can't purchase
its a good source of info... i find some good for longer cables
and some just too tight for my ham hands and screaming carpal tunnel
save it for interconnects and shorter stuff
feed a single strand into the end of the type 1
typically only a few inches, the trick here is to use the
stretch properties of the paracord using a kind of push-pull technique
push the wire a little bit and pull the pararcord over the wire
works good takes a long time
patience... 

 

[ThurstonX]

Finished up three pairs of interconnects to put my Schiit (and XPS-1) together.  Looks a damn sight better than the rat's nest I had as a temporary solution.  Does it sound better?  Why, of course it does!  What a question 

  It sure doesn't sound worse.  Everything in my chain is using the 100/46 type 2 Litz, pictured below.  Well, haven't rewired the turntable yet 

  Wouldn't hold my breath on that one.
 
I learned one really valuable trick along the way.
 
Re: How to cut TechFlex cleanly?
 
"When I was working on my ground wires this week, I used a good pair of kitchen shears to cut the (unfortunately not official TechFlex) sleeving. It quickly disintegrated until I found a solution. I wrapped masking tape around the sleeving right to the edge of where I wanted to cut, snipped the sleeving, then quickly hit the end with a lighter. Worked out nicely."
 
from: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/377400-post4.html
It certainly did work out nicely.  Tip o' the mug to that gent 

  In the "Materials" photo you can see the result of not securing the end of the cut with tape.  I took it one step further and put tape on both sides of the Sharpie cut mark, then cut and hit both ends with a lighter.  The trick I taught myself was inserting 95% of the tube into the Techflex, folding and taping the loose end, then feeding that end through the RCA barrels.  A bit of pain working the Techflex through the barrels once they're on, but it's doable.  It can rough up the Techflex slightly, but only to feel, not to sight.  Since it's the only solution I could find, I grinned and bore it.
 
The connectors are these Reans: http://www.redco.com/Rean-Neutrik-NYS352G.html  Cheap as schiit, but I had no problems with them, and I like the look.  I bought 20, needed 12, and fortunately the first part of the order arrived with 12.  Good thing I didn't screw any of them up, but I certainly won't win any soldering awards 

 
The last trick I discovered has to do with getting the Teflon coating off the Litz wire.  I augmented @TrollDragon's "ball o' solder" method to include a gentle brushing of the slightly fanned out ends with the tip of the iron, flipping once to get both "sides."  Then I give them another dip in the solder ball.  Had zero problems using that method.  I had my new Hakko station set at about 825 F.
 
I think that about covers it.
 
 
The Rat's Nest
 

 
 
Materials
 

 
 
Rean el Cheapo (pic shamelessly borrowed from Redco)
 

 
 
The Mats! (AKA - The Replacements)
 

 
 
Rats Evicted
 

 
 
Shameless Self-Promotion 

 

 
 
Had to show off my scrap wood stand, which also will fail to reap any rewards.  You can see one of my scrap wood speaker stands in pix 1 & 5.

 

[creatip]

Do 8 strand as suggested, you want equal resistance for each path, l&r and +&-. So that's four on the ground.

 
Thank you, I guess I'll go with 8 strands then. It's actually for a male-to-male 3,5mm interconnect. I'm guessing 8 strands for a headphone cable would need a very long cable, and be way too stiff.
 
Anyway, back to the subject of DIY headphone cable, for my Hifiman HE400, I'm using a 'twisted plate' (dunno the official name of it, so that's what I call it) cable. It's actually a solid core copper cable, shaped in a twisted/helix thin plate shape inside the jacket/shielding.
 
I'm actually 'pushing it', as 1 strand of the cable alone is almost the same size of the SMC connector of the Hifiman headphone, and of course I'd need 2 strands for each connector. But yeah, what can I say, I love the look of the cable very much....
 

 

[TrollDragon]

Excellent Job on the patch cables!
 
And a nice augmentation!

 

 

[ThurstonX]

Didn't like the way the cables into the XPS-1 were getting pinched, so rigged a new config:
 
 

 

 

 
 
Used some 3M interlocking strips (better than Velcro) to secure it. and covered the white part and S/N labels with electrical tape.
 
In an unrelated DIY cable project, I added an inline On/Off switch (SparkFun.com to the rescue!) to a funky headphone stand my wife got me for my b-day.  I love the design, but the lack of a switch was not something I was willing to accept.  Plugging and unplugging all the time is a pointless PITA, IMO.  Otherwise, it's a gorgeous stand, and gives just enough ambient light to the small Lab room.  You can check out the maker's stuff here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/192531378/tech-gift-mens-gift-custom-handmade
 
 

 

 

 

 

[Greg_R]

I'm making a braided cable for a headset (TRRS).  I have 4 strands of 28g wire.  Is a particular braiding pattern recommended?  There will be 3 active conductors (L/R + mic) and 1 ground.
 
I see the two options below.  Any recommendations would be appreciated!
 
http://www.seekyee.com/Slings/howtos/4strand.htm
http://www.headfonia.com/a-cable-not-rocket-science/2/