DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Jul 15, 2014 at 9:44 PM Post #2,251 of 10,535
  For the redco mini xlr, I don't think there's a ground lug..  I think maybe the metal strain relief  clamp is the part you're supposed to clamp to the spiral shield.  You could do that, but I've read it's best only to attach the spiral shield on the source side, the 3.5mm plug..  
edit:  ok yeah if you look at the picture in the pdf on the bottom right.. it says you crimp metal strain relief tabs closer to the plug to the spiral shield.. and the second strain relief tab should be over the insulator..  
edit 2: I realized once you split the starquad cable for the dual mini xlr, might be really hard to maintain the spiral shield.. heh I'd just be lazy and not attach it on the headphone side
http://www.redco.com/files/MINI_XLR_Assembly_instructions.pdf

 
I actually thought the metal strain relief clamp is the ground lug lol. Yeah, maybe I should just do only that.
 
Jul 16, 2014 at 9:41 AM Post #2,252 of 10,535
Does anyone know if a standard heat gun will melt Techflex? (I don't want it to, obviously)

Edit: Nevermind, I found that they spec the melting point at 482°F
 
Jul 16, 2014 at 12:44 PM Post #2,254 of 10,535
Jul 17, 2014 at 7:36 AM Post #2,259 of 10,535
it has two side pins and a middle pin that is pointed.

 
Looks like this one ? I made this custom cable for one of my UE900, I don't remember, when I get home I will take a picture of soldering side to show you.
If you have the multimeter you can easily find out which pin is positive.
 
As far as I remember you have 3 pins sticking out at the bottom (2 side and 1 middle).
Two outer pins are for the ground and middle one is the positive, it does not matter which outer pin you solder both are ground.
 
But, use the multimeter to make sure which pin connects to the round jack on the other side.
 
Hope this helps.
 
IMP : make sure to use the heatshrink after you solder, the pins are very close to each other, when you close the plastic housing (I apply crazy glue) it may touch.
 
 
 
 

 
Jul 17, 2014 at 8:11 AM Post #2,260 of 10,535
Does anyone know where I can find some connectors for Sennheiser HD 530? I think they use the same as in HD 25.


If you are sure the connectors are same as/compatible with HD25, then you can buy the same cable/connectors that goed with HD600/650/580 series.....

For connectors:

http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=1853

For the cable:

http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4289
 
Jul 17, 2014 at 8:38 AM Post #2,261 of 10,535
Looks like this one ? I made this custom cable for one of my UE900, I don't remember, when I get home I will take a picture of soldering side to show you.
If you have the multimeter you can easily find out which pin is positive.

As far as I remember you have 3 pins sticking out at the bottom (2 side and 1 middle).
Two outer pins are for the ground and middle one is the positive, it does not matter which outer pin you solder both are ground.

But, use the multimeter to make sure which pin connects to the round jack on the other side.

Hope this helps.

IMP : make sure to use the heatshrink after you solder, the pins are very close to each other, when you close the plastic housing (I apply crazy glue) it may touch.








Nice finish....looks pro. So did you buy all 3( cable,3.5mm jack and mmcx) @one place? Aliexpress?
And what is the wattage of the soldering stick that you used?
 
Jul 17, 2014 at 10:00 AM Post #2,262 of 10,535
Nice finish....looks pro. So did you buy all 3( cable,3.5mm jack and mmcx) @one place? Aliexpress?

And what is the wattage of the soldering stick that you used?

 


Thanks ! :),

From my experience as long as you don't solder wires on the same surface as the headphone voice coil you can use the medium heat.
When you DIY, for example re-terminating the headphone to balanced xlr/rewiring/hard-wiring you have to be extremely careful with the heat because you can ruin the voice coil.

I burn my beyerdynamic T70 voice coil by doing this, but for this type of soldering it's ok to use medium to high. (enough heat to melt solders)
And also depends on your solders, cardas solders are easier to melt than mundorf from my experience.

I bought all 3 items from ebay/b&H I believe.

Cable
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10M-0-12mm-Generic-High-Purity-Silver-Plated-OCC-Teflon-Wire-FR-Audio-DIY-0-15x7-/221137701212?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

Connector
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C8-With-gasket-Earphone-Pins-Set-for-Shure-SE846-SE535-SE425-SE315-UE900-etc-/251507364970?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:3160

Personally I will not recommend the cable that I bought, they are very stiff due to 7 strands at 0.15mm, more strands is better for iem (more strands = flexible), try to get at least 12 strands for better flexibility.

And lastly, I don't really like viablue, the locking mechanism is bit weird and I don't really get a good grip when pulling out from the audio device (ipod/ipad/ etc).

Hope this helps.
 
Jul 17, 2014 at 11:17 AM Post #2,263 of 10,535
If you are sure the connectors are same as/compatible with HD25, then you can buy the same cable/connectors that goed with HD600/650/580 series.....

For connectors:

http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=1853

For the cable:

http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4289


Thanks Shawn,

The hd 650 connectors can fit hd25s but wont fit the HD 530s.
 
Jul 17, 2014 at 12:15 PM Post #2,265 of 10,535
Nice finish....looks pro. So did you buy all 3( cable,3.5mm jack and mmcx) @one place? Aliexpress?

And what is the wattage of the soldering stick that you used?

 


Thanks ! :),

From my experience as long as you don't solder wires on the same surface as the headphone voice coil you can use the medium heat.
When you DIY, for example re-terminating the headphone to balanced xlr/rewiring/hard-wiring you have to be extremely careful with the heat because you can ruin the voice coil.

I burn my beyerdynamic T70 voice coil by doing this, but for this type of soldering it's ok to use medium to high. (enough heat to melt solders)
And also depends on your solders, cardas solders are easier to melt than mundorf from my experience.

I bought all 3 items from ebay/b&H I believe.

Cable
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10M-0-12mm-Generic-High-Purity-Silver-Plated-OCC-Teflon-Wire-FR-Audio-DIY-0-15x7-/221137701212?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

Connector
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C8-With-gasket-Earphone-Pins-Set-for-Shure-SE846-SE535-SE425-SE315-UE900-etc-/251507364970?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:3160

Personally I will not recommend the cable that I bought, they are very stiff due to 7 strands at 0.15mm, more strands is better for iem (more strands = flexible), try to get at least 12 strands for better flexibility.

And lastly, I don't really like viablue, the locking mechanism is bit weird and I don't really get a good grip when pulling out from the audio device (ipod/ipad/ etc).

Hope this helps.


TY for the inputs....Actually my TF10 cable bit the dust and yet figuring out to do the recabling on my own or buy the sunricky cable/FiiO's.....:rolleyes:
 

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