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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Apr 22, 2020 at 9:15 AM Post #9,646 of 10,535
doctorjuggles said:
You can use a match/lighter to burn away some of the coating. I’ve also found that a bit of flux and a few extra seconds with a soldering iron works just fine.

I’ve also seen someone use a spare soldering iron in a ceramic egg-cup holder full of solder as a makeshift solder pot, but I would say that’s a fairly unsafe alternative. :)
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Yes I remember seeing someone thoroughly flux the strands and then put on some solders.
 
Apr 22, 2020 at 4:53 PM Post #9,647 of 10,535
dotashope said:
Yes I remember seeing someone thoroughly flux the strands and then put on some solders.
Click to expand...

I found the video - I've started it at the right place here - you can see the egg-cup trick....

 
Apr 23, 2020 at 10:23 PM Post #9,649 of 10,535
Good Evening All,

After years of various other DIY projects, I'm taking the plunge into soldering. I think my project of choice will be making some headphone cables.

After hours of researching and 250 or so dollars spent, I'm nearly ready. I had two questions. One is oft discussed here, the other I didn't see.

I'm still confused on the solder itself. I've seen a lot of varying opinions; with flux, without flux, with rosin, without rosin, etc. For a beginner, what exactly would you recommend? Do I get separate rosin to aid in the tinning, and then a rosin/flux-free solder, or is there a better approach?

Additionally, for a cheap soldering pot, would there be any harm in just getting a 1 oz. porcelain dipping cup or ramekin on Amazon and using that?

Thanks in advance
 
Apr 23, 2020 at 10:35 PM Post #9,650 of 10,535
Get a 60/40 lead solder with 2% rosin (102%, how that works i have no idea) and yes apply flux before applying solder, you'll get better results easier. 63/37 solder is supposed to skip the small moment where solder isn't fully hardened after you take the iron off the joint but i haven't tried it and found 60/40 to work well.

I posted a good youtube how to solder link a page or so back. Can't help you with a solder pot, haven't used one.

Check out SGAudioHive for some hi-fi/iem specific building tutorials, they repaired and modded my GR07s and do good work. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXPVFL086wpy2jmASW0GYAg
 
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Apr 23, 2020 at 10:45 PM Post #9,651 of 10,535
ScornDefeat said:
Good Evening All,

After years of various other DIY projects, I'm taking the plunge into soldering. I think my project of choice will be making some headphone cables.

After hours of researching and 250 or so dollars spent, I'm nearly ready. I had two questions. One is oft discussed here, the other I didn't see.

I'm still confused on the solder itself. I've seen a lot of varying opinions; with flux, without flux, with rosin, without rosin, etc. For a beginner, what exactly would you recommend? Do I get separate rosin to aid in the tinning, and then a rosin/flux-free solder, or is there a better approach?

Additionally, for a cheap soldering pot, would there be any harm in just getting a 1 oz. porcelain dipping cup or ramekin on Amazon and using that?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Rosin core is just solder with flux, it saves some trouble to apply the flux separately. You do need flux to burn off the coating on wires so you can either apply flux before soldering or go straight on with a rosin core. If you are sensitive to fume and such I'd suggest get flux separately cuz rosin creates lots of smoke and is a potential risk for your health(there are organic flux that makes very little smoke, but I think they tend to be more corrosive so you have to choose carefully).
 
Apr 23, 2020 at 11:23 PM Post #9,652 of 10,535
dotashope said:
Rosin core is just solder with flux, it saves some trouble to apply the flux separately. You do need flux to burn off the coating on wires so you can either apply flux before soldering or go straight on with a rosin core. If you are sensitive to fume and such I'd suggest get flux separately cuz rosin creates lots of smoke and is a potential risk for your health(there are organic flux that makes very little smoke, but I think they tend to be more corrosive so you have to choose carefully).
Click to expand...

Very helpful info, thank you for clearing that up. Sounds like flux and solder separate is the route to go. I am also getting a fume extractor just in-case.

Thanks!
 
Apr 23, 2020 at 11:30 PM Post #9,653 of 10,535
Fat Larry said:
Get a 60/40 lead solder with 2% rosin (102%, how that works i have no idea) and yes apply flux before applying solder, you'll get better results easier. 63/37 solder is supposed to skip the small moment where solder isn't fully hardened after you take the iron off the joint but i haven't tried it and found 60/40 to work well.

I posted a good youtube how to solder link a page or so back. Can't help you with a solder pot, haven't used one.

Check out SGAudioHive for some hi-fi/iem specific building tutorials, they repaird and modded my GR07s and do good work. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXPVFL086wpy2jmASW0GYAg
Click to expand...

Great info; sounds like 60/40 is a reasonable starting point, with separate flux.

The beginning video is definitely helpful, thanks! Particularly the spreadsheet, some things I didn't think of and a lot cheaper options than I had.
 
Apr 24, 2020 at 12:18 AM Post #9,654 of 10,535
ScornDefeat said:
Very helpful info, thank you for clearing that up. Sounds like flux and solder separate is the route to go. I am also getting a fume extractor just in-case.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
The one with carbon filter is better imo, it filters the fume before blowing it into the work space. And safety glass is a must if you plan to use a homemade solder pot(soldering too). You can also thoroughly flux the strands and apply solder to the wire if you plan to work with litz, a way to avoid solder pot. But a pot is easiest and most reliable way to tin your litz wires.
 
Apr 24, 2020 at 10:28 AM Post #9,655 of 10,535
dotashope said:
The one with carbon filter is better imo, it filters the fume before blowing it into the work space. And safety glass is a must if you plan to use a homemade solder pot(soldering too). You can also thoroughly flux the strands and apply solder to the wire if you plan to work with litz, a way to avoid solder pot. But a pot is easiest and most reliable way to tin your litz wires.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the helpful info.

Is the paste-style rosin flux typically considered the easiest to work with?
 
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:44 PM Post #9,657 of 10,535
IMG_20200425_153506.jpgcan someone recommend a more reliable solder station under 100 with a better temp control and smaller tips? I bought this low end Weller and its tip just broke up after I fix 3-4 of my cables( plus it successfully ruined 2 of my eidolic and plussound connectors today, I'm gonna rage quit this piece of crap...)
 
Apr 25, 2020 at 4:12 PM Post #9,658 of 10,535
Not sure how much it is over there but the Hakko FX-888D is very good, as are their tips. But Weller is good. Are you keeping your tip cleaned all the time and “wet” (ie when you aren’t using it are you making sure it has some solder in the end to stop it drying out and becoming brittle?)
 
Apr 26, 2020 at 1:33 AM Post #9,660 of 10,535
doctorjuggles said:
Not sure how much it is over there but the Hakko FX-888D is very good, as are their tips. But Weller is good. Are you keeping your tip cleaned all the time and “wet” (ie when you aren’t using it are you making sure it has some solder in the end to stop it drying out and becoming brittle?)
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Well I forgot to keep it wet all times, but I do clean it often during my soldering. This was wlc100, I've already ordered replacement tips, hope it would work for me. I really miss old days when I have higher end Weller in my school lab... These Weller are kinda around 300 and they are simply magical.
 
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