I have many cables that use tech flex nylon multifilament. As with paracord, don't put it on too tight, or it will facilitate cable noise.Hey guys, so I make my own Y cables but I need proper black sleeving that would be as supple, light, soft & non-microphonic as HE400i cable for instance, all I got off aliexpress is stiff techflex that refuses to lose its flat fold at that.
Apparently paracord is where the party's at but my 4 wires together are already 6mm and I gotta go a little larger to avoid microphonics FWIR so I'm officially running out of ideas, how about Viablue then : https://viablue.de/com/accessories_braided_sleeve_black.php ?
Thanks for any insight please
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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
leeperry
Galvanically isolated his brain
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well, that's what I got in black: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5M-...dable-Sleeving-Cable-Harness/32722624841.html
it remains folded flat, is very stiff and it's PET. I want the same sleeve as HE400i cable, I guess I do need nylon sleeving
it remains folded flat, is very stiff and it's PET. I want the same sleeve as HE400i cable, I guess I do need nylon sleeving
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That’s not techflex nylon multi filament. What you got is something else. I don’t think you can get techflex nylon multifilament on Ali.well, that's what I got in black: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5M-...dable-Sleeving-Cable-Harness/32722624841.html
it remains folded flat, is very stiff and it's PET. I want the same sleeve as HE400i cable, I guess I do need nylon sleeving
Thanks again!It pretty much doesn’t matter. Using two wires for each pole is what I do. There is really no advantage of multiple cores over a basic four core cable. Multiple cores is just funner to build and looks cooler.
The only exception to this is if your cores are really thin. I think 32AWG is the thinnest gauge needwd for a headphone, maybe 30. If your cores are thinner than that, having multiple cores might be useful.
What about RCA cable,how connect the 2 wires and the shield ?
some say connect like this
Each wire to L+/R+ the second to the ground. and the shield only on one side connect to the ground.
some saying not connect the shield at all.
Thanks again!
What about RCA cable,how connect the 2 wires and the shield ?
some say connect like this
Each wire to L+/R+ the second to the ground. and the shield only on one side connect to the ground.
some saying not connect the shield at all.
See https://www.head-fi.org/threads/diy...comments-thread.676402/page-575#post-14783012
An RCA cable is an interconnect cable.
I couldn't sure that the ground on the second side separate and not accidentally connected (and I cant test it)It pretty much doesn’t matter. Using two wires for each pole is what I do. There is really no advantage of multiple cores over a basic four core cable. Multiple cores is just funner to build and looks cooler.
The only exception to this is if your cores are really thin. I think 32AWG is the thinnest gauge needwd for a headphone, maybe 30. If your cores are thinner than that, having multiple cores might be useful.
so I cut all the frame of the cable
I disassemble one cable of "SC-Peakcock MkII" from Beyerdynamic T1 that I bought used.
and discover inside the cable green color on the white silky material near the copper cable
I guess its a corrosion.
I decide to cut it until I pass the green color, and connect it, still I cant sure if there in middle still having this ugly condition.
*this cable is from old vintage headphone but the same condition happened with the Beyerdynamic T1 cable that using "SC-Peakcock MkII"
and discover inside the cable green color on the white silky material near the copper cable
I guess its a corrosion.
I decide to cut it until I pass the green color, and connect it, still I cant sure if there in middle still having this ugly condition.
*this cable is from old vintage headphone but the same condition happened with the Beyerdynamic T1 cable that using "SC-Peakcock MkII"
When you guys keep the shielding on, how do you go about terminating it? Do you solder it to the ground? Shell? I've tried cutting it off, but it gets in the way of the heatshrink sometimes.
gwertheim
Head-Fier
That’s not techflex nylon multi filament. What you got is something else. I don’t think you can get techflex nylon multifilament on Ali.
You can use the same thing as computer modders use. I have cables with that sleeving and it looks really nice
https://www.cable-sleeving.com
What kind of cable? This question was just asked n the last few days, so maybe just just scroll back a bit.When you guys keep the shielding on, how do you go about terminating it? Do you solder it to the ground? Shell? I've tried cutting it off, but it gets in the way of the heatshrink sometimes.
ohcrapgorillas
500+ Head-Fier
I am wanting to make DIY cables for my Atticus and HD800. I want to use some decently pure OCC litz copper, but I'm having a hard time finding a source. I can find litz wire, and I can find OCC copper, but I can't find OCC litz. I'm also open to suggestions as to what type of wire to use. I'd prefer to avoid spending megabucks on brand-name wire, even though I'm sure it would be superior in the long run. I also understand that, beyond a certain level of stranding, I'll need a solder pot to properly tin the wire because of the way it absorbs heat?
I beleive you want a pot if the wire you are getting is enamel coated. As for litz, I highly doubt you will be able to hear the difference between litz and basic mogami mic cable. I recommend you just get some mogami, strip it, lightly braid it, and enjoy. Maybe use nylon multifiliment sleeve.I am wanting to make DIY cables for my Atticus and HD800. I want to use some decently pure OCC litz copper, but I'm having a hard time finding a source. I can find litz wire, and I can find OCC copper, but I can't find OCC litz. I'm also open to suggestions as to what type of wire to use. I'd prefer to avoid spending megabucks on brand-name wire, even though I'm sure it would be superior in the long run. I also understand that, beyond a certain level of stranding, I'll need a solder pot to properly tin the wire because of the way it absorbs heat?
rnros
1000+ Head-Fier
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I am wanting to make DIY cables for my Atticus and HD800. I want to use some decently pure OCC litz copper, but I'm having a hard time finding a source. I can find litz wire, and I can find OCC copper, but I can't find OCC litz. I'm also open to suggestions as to what type of wire to use. I'd prefer to avoid spending megabucks on brand-name wire, even though I'm sure it would be superior in the long run. I also understand that, beyond a certain level of stranding, I'll need a solder pot to properly tin the wire because of the way it absorbs heat?
I agree with Allan that the solder pot is required for enameled conductors, solid or stranded. And for a headphone cable, the wire gauge is modest, so no issue there.
My question to you is about the 'litz' description. Are you looking for a single solid wire that you will use in a litz braid of your own construction?
Or are looking for a multi-strand cable that is called litz? (Cardas does this, but not OCC.)
Neotech makes both solid and stranded OCC with Teflon insulation. TakeFiveAudio and PartsConnexion carry these.
Some prefer stranded, some swear by solid.
https://www.takefiveaudio.com/categories/209-neotech-cryo-treated-copper-silver-hook-up-wire
https://www.partsconnexion.com/neotech-copper-ptfe-hook-up-wire.html
Some 15+ years ago, Vampire was selling a single strand 26 AWG enameled OCC wire that was used for braiding audio cable. (Essentially, an OCC magnet wire.)
Long gone from the audio DIY marketplace until recently, SonicCraft is now offering this. (Although I know nothing about how this compares with the previous Vampire wire.)
You can get by without a solder pot for just a few connections, but with cheap solder pots available today for $20, no reason to.
http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/chassis-vampire-c-296_175_447
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ohcrapgorillas
500+ Head-Fier
Thanks for your responses, I will be certain to pick up a solder pot before investing in litz wire. I am preferably looking for pre-sleeved, stranded wire. The links you provided are very helpful, I will look into both SonicCraft and Neotech's offerings further, thanks!
TYATYA
1000+ Head-Fier
Furutech 3.5 TRS jack.
I heard that rhodium coating is wear off fast then underlying copper layer will appears.
I don't think this jack is counterfeit one. Want to buy this interconnect cable.
But the seller kindly told me that thing.
Any one can help to confirm the coating on Furutech?
I heard that rhodium coating is wear off fast then underlying copper layer will appears.
I don't think this jack is counterfeit one. Want to buy this interconnect cable.
But the seller kindly told me that thing.
Any one can help to confirm the coating on Furutech?
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