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I used similar cable in one of my Crack amp builds and it was fine.
I was looking to build a DIY cable for an enroute pair of HiFiman HE400i's has anyone seen a good source of low profile 2.5mm Male TRS, or "regular" sized ones with a collar?
Redco has these https://www.redco.com/Redco-2.5mm-Male-TRS-w-Collar.html and I have a couple ordered (finger crossed they are in stock).
But I was wondering if anyone knows of another brand/source? I've looked at Markertek, Parts express, mouser, digikey...
There is a Calrad part number of 30-485 but it does not have the collar.
Thanks, I've seen those, or at least that style, the problem is the 400i's have little to no clearance, for anything other then a low profile plug (they have a cutout around the jack).
Amphenol make those awesome 3.5mm with collars, I was hoping there was 2.5mm version out in the wild somewhere.
Yeah I have searched for a similar Amphenol myself with no luck. I even tried Double Helix with no luck. If I get some free time later I will look around some more, 2.5 mm trs is not real common as you well know.
I appreciate it.
I've only found the Redco's and a set of low profile (skinny) ones on Lunashops.com.
Nice! Your ebay-fu is stronger than mine.
Howdy guys/girls, I have been browsing these forums for a fair while now and was wondering if I could get some help/clarification of a few things.
As a background, I have finally gotten around to beginning heavy modification of my Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X's last night as I found them uncomfortable, etc, and with this I am doing a complete re-cabling of the cans and making my own custom cables.
My goal is to achieve having a detachable microphone for communication with the best possible (within reasonable budget) cabling for sound quality.
As I understand, having an electrically separate ground return for the left/right drivers is a good way to prevent crosstalk (which you may or way not be able to hear), and regardless I am one of the types of people that would prefer to do a high quality job once.
So does this mean that I should have a 6 conductor cable for: 1) Left, 2) Left ground, 3) Right, 4) Right ground, 5) Mic, 6) Mic ground? If this is the case, would it be best to run the 'Mic Ground' with the headband to the other cup to have dual entry TRS plugs (ie, 1 - Right, Right ground, Mic ground; 2 - Left, Left ground, Mic). Or should I have dual entry plugs with a TS for the Right and Right ground and a TRRS for the Left, Left ground, Mic, and Mic ground?
I was wanting to do Litz braiding of the cables with the braid separating to braided cables to each can from the Y-split.
As for materials, I am in Australia so quality and affordable raw materials are very hard to source therefore I am likely going to have to order from overseas.
For the cable I am trying to decide between using Mogami (likely 2534 stripped of the insulation and shield) or using a cable such as the "Nucleotide V3 24awg stranded OCC copper". For the Mogami I would likely sleeve it with individually with Type I micro paracord/vest cord/accessory cord, and for the OCC copper I would love it if the cable I got looked similar to the Toxic Cables Black Widow if possible (EDIT: Just found a link to these 1000 pages in to the gallery - http://www.norneaudio.com/litzheim/...em-iem-full-size-aftermarket-up-7-n-6-upgrade)
So my main questions are:
1) Is the 6 conductor setup like I described what I need, and if so, will the 3x2 or 2+4 dual entry setup be best? Furthermore, I read that braiding the pairs (eg, Left and Left ground) in the cable provide benefits to the sound quality, so where should I fit the microphone conductors in this?
2) Have I picked out appropriate cable types for what I want? And if not, would someone be able to point me in the right direction for this?
3) As part of what I ideally want, are there any quality TRS or TRRS jacks and plugs that have a copper-like finish? I found this one (http://www.markertek.com/product/30...o-3-5mm-panel-mount-jack-mounts-in-1-4in-hole), however when checking other sites it has a different finish.
I have a question about using two conductor cable with shield, versus coax cable, for an RCA Interconnect. From what I understand, it's best practice not to connect the shield to the common on both ends of the RCA cable. One only connects one side and calls it the drain side. But with coax cable, the shield is the common, so it gets connected to both sides of the RCA cable. How is this different than using the shield on the two conductor cable connected to both ends of the RCA cable? Is one able "better" than another? From what I understand, mogami uses coax cable for their pre-made RCA cables
Both types of cable work well and I have built plenty of cable using the two methods. If you are using a quality coaxial cable I suspect it does as good a job as the two conductor with shield, depending on the equipment used. However there may well be a caveat.
I was taught years ago that most home equipment is unbalanced and professional equipment is more often balanced so often I have to build cables that go from one to the other and then I am more apt to use two conductors and shield for that situation.
The difference is when you use two conductor with shield you can cause problems by hooking the shield to both ends that already have a ground because you are in effect forming a loop and that loop will act as an antenna. In the coaxial cable there is one ground on each end only. (only one signal path).
When I use that set up, I have the shield to ground on the source end of the cable and mark the cable with an arrow showing direction of signal flow. I have seen such cables called "balanced RCA" cables but they are used less frequently than coaxial RCA IMHO. For my home set up, with a lot of equipment in close proximity I generally use shielded two conductor cable myself, Mogami, Canare, or Belden.
I'm putting dual stereo 3.5mm plugs (mono didn't work) on a cable used on an old headphone. The left side seems to be cutting out when moving or when the cable (not he plug) is not in a specific location. I've used a different cable and it works just fine.
What am I doing wrong? I also took pictures of the right side for comparison. The right side works with no problems.
With that type ground clamp on the connector it is possible to cut into the jacket and short out the wire going to the tip of your connector. You might try using a bit of heat shrink tubing where clamp grips the jacket for extra insulation. You are using a quality connector and generally the wire is fine unless you get it too hot and melt the insulation or you create a short circuit in some manner.
The solder joints look fine from what I can tell in the photos so I do not believe those are an issue. Always measure the cable with an ohmmeter before installing the cable, move the connector as you do this to check for intermits.
Ahh, so the "loop" is in the wire itself! OK, I think I got it.
I'm thinking of using Mogami W2965, since that is what Mogami uses. I also like that it's a dual coax cable, so the the final result will look pretty professional. The cable is under a $1 a foot, and Rean RCA plugs are under $1.50 each. That means a 4' DIY stereo RCA cable should be in the $10 range.
I generally use these Neutrik connectors at home..
Neutrik NF2CB RCA Professional RCA Plugs
My cable price is closer to $45 per set but I am constantly plugging equipment in and out and I like the way these connectors are designed. I tend to color code the cables so I can tell them apart but having the jackets bonded can make for a neater appearance if you use coaxial cable. When I build with coaxial I use either Belden 1505a, 1505f, or 1694A and use specific Canare connectors made for the cable. The tools required to install those connectors keep most diy folks from attempting them but I would catch grief from the engineering staff at a local university if I ever used much else. Technical peer pressure.