DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Aug 30, 2015 at 2:27 PM Post #4,171 of 10,535
   
Ah yes, I guess I should explain more. Sorry about that.
 
I am using this with a desktop amp that is designed for headphones. My friend, the one who made it guaranteed that it should be enough to drive my speakers(albeit up to a certain level), because he had tried before with his speaker sets.
 
So I need the TRS connector to solder all the 4 ends(2 for each side) in the configuration similar to headphones do, which is L, R , Ground(for both sides). This TRS jack will then be connected to the amp out, which the place where my usual headphones go to. The other out the amp has is the DAC out, so not gonna use that.
 
I don't have a speaker amp atm, but will probably buy if this amp of mine can't drive the speakers well. Hope this clears everything up. Too tired to think straight now lol. Will continue tomorrow.

Yes it didn't make sense at first that clears it up. The tip is for L+ the ring is for R+ and the to negatives go to the sleeve and you should be fine if the speaker cable will fit inside the barrel. If it for temporary use why not give it a shot.
 
Aug 30, 2015 at 2:49 PM Post #4,172 of 10,535
  Ah yes, I guess I should explain more. Sorry about that.
 
I am using this with a desktop amp that is designed for headphones. My friend, the one who made it guaranteed that it should be enough to drive my speakers(albeit up to a certain level), because he had tried before with his speaker sets.
 
So I need the TRS connector to solder all the 4 ends(2 for each side) in the configuration similar to headphones do, which is L, R , Ground(for both sides). This TRS jack will then be connected to the amp out, which the place where my usual headphones go to. The other out the amp has is the DAC out, so not gonna use that.
 
I don't have a speaker amp atm, but will probably buy if this amp of mine can't drive the speakers well. Hope this clears everything up. Too tired to think straight now lol. Will continue tomorrow.

 
  Yes it didn't make sense at first that clears it up. The tip is for L+ the ring is for R+ and the to negatives go to the sleeve and you should be fine if the speaker cable will fit inside the barrel. If it for temporary use why not give it a shot.

 
That's the way.  Since it could be temporary, and I gather not moved about too often, you could forgo the boot and just stick the speaker wires into the barrel.  Maybe some tape or heat shrink could provide some strain relief, as needed.
 
Good luck 
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Aug 30, 2015 at 11:48 PM Post #4,173 of 10,535
  Yes it didn't make sense at first that clears it up. The tip is for L+ the ring is for R+ and the to negatives go to the sleeve and you should be fine if the speaker cable will fit inside the barrel. If it for temporary use why not give it a shot.

 
 
   
 
That's the way.  Since it could be temporary, and I gather not moved about too often, you could forgo the boot and just stick the speaker wires into the barrel.  Maybe some tape or heat shrink could provide some strain relief, as needed.
 
Good luck 
smily_headphones1.gif

 
 
Glad to hear it works as normal as headphone cables do. Woot! Thanks guys
 
Aug 31, 2015 at 11:40 AM Post #4,175 of 10,535
Hi everyone, I'm planning to make a 4 wire braid cable for my HD650. Could anyone explain how much extra wire I should order in order to compensate for the braid? I plan on making either a 6 feet or 8 feet 4 wire round braid. The wire gauge is 26AWG. Thanks


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Aug 31, 2015 at 1:24 PM Post #4,176 of 10,535
Hi everyone, I'm planning to make a 4 wire braid cable for my HD650. Could anyone explain how much extra wire I should order in order to compensate for the braid? I plan on making either a 6 feet or 8 feet 4 wire round braid. The wire gauge is 26AWG. Thanks


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It depends on how tight your braid is.  I like to braid mine relatively loosely so that the cable is still supple.  I tend to only lose a few inches out of a 6 foot wire.  
 
Be careful about your paracord tho.  I found that 95# paracord "shrinks" a lot more than 275# paracord.  In fact, while I might lose 4"-6" on a 6' run of 95# paracord, I usually have a few inches extra after a 6' run of 275#.
 
Aug 31, 2015 at 2:32 PM Post #4,177 of 10,535
Hi everyone, I'm planning to make a 4 wire braid cable for my HD650. Could anyone explain how much extra wire I should order in order to compensate for the braid? I plan on making either a 6 feet or 8 feet 4 wire round braid. The wire gauge is 26AWG. Thanks


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The length of the cable that you want to make times 4 (6ft x 4). It will lose a few inches in length after braid.
You can add a foot or two if you're uncertain.
 
Sep 1, 2015 at 3:58 AM Post #4,178 of 10,535
Thanks Stillhart and CalvinXC ... Still contemplating if I will sleeve it or not. The bare wire (silver / gold in Teflon ) looks kinda cool. Using the same wire for my IEM.


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Sep 3, 2015 at 11:08 PM Post #4,179 of 10,535
Hey guys, I've been looking to get my Denon 751's recalled in the UK without much success. The cable went somewhere around the jack as they usually do. I had a go at soldering on a new jack before which worked for a while but it was a bit of a hash job... Would anyone be willing to offer their services to completely recable them for a fee obviously? Thanks
 
Sep 4, 2015 at 12:07 AM Post #4,180 of 10,535
Hey guys, I've been looking to get my Denon 751's recalled in the UK without much success. The cable went somewhere around the jack as they usually do. I had a go at soldering on a new jack before which worked for a while but it was a bit of a hash job... Would anyone be willing to offer their services to completely recable them for a fee obviously? Thanks

 
I don't know if anyone could really reply to that publicly. I think if anyone offers up services, the mods come in and label them as "MOT's" like me. Esp, if you're giving them extra money. I think this thread is more about learning to do it yourself. Just practice a bit more, maybe not on your headphones, and you could just make it yourself! It's pretty fun IMO (obviously.... I'm a little bias though).
 
Sep 7, 2015 at 8:47 PM Post #4,182 of 10,535
Hey guys, I'm looking to create my first AUX cable for use in my car. I'm looking to make it pretty rugged and last a while since I have different people using it pretty often, and they tend to die after a while. So far I have a Neutrik NTP3RC-B right angle 1/8" jack for the stereo side, and a Amphenol Audio KS3PC-AU straight 1/8" jack for the phone/ipod.
 
However I don't really know what type of cable would work best. I was thinking about using Mogami W3031 however it has only two conductors plus the shield. Is it possible to use the shield as the ground, or is that not really recommended? Otherwise I thought I could use Mogami W2944 which is 2 conductor as well, but an additional wire which seems like it could be used as a decent ground.
 
Sep 8, 2015 at 11:32 AM Post #4,183 of 10,535
Hey guys, I'm looking to create my first AUX cable for use in my car. I'm looking to make it pretty rugged and last a while since I have different people using it pretty often, and they tend to die after a while. So far I have a http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NTP3RC-B/?qs=erV61lVMmP98yp2Tyz6QmQ%3D%3D]Neutrik NTP3RC-B[/url] right angle 1/8" jack for the stereo side, and a Amphenol]http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Audio/KS3PC-AU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV7tHWrL7MPmY9mIYbO5YSX4%3d]Amphenol Audio KS3PC-AU[/url] straight 1/8" jack for the phone/ipod.

However I don't really know what type of cable would work best. I was thinking about using Mogami W3031
 however it has only two conductors plus the shield. Is it possible to use the shield as the ground, or is that not really recommended? Otherwise I thought I could use Mogami W2944
 which is 2 conductor as well, but an additional wire which seems like it could be used as a decent ground.


My choice would be Mogami W2893 or W2799. Both are 4 conductor, both have a copper shield that could be used to strengthen the cable if left on.
 
Sep 8, 2015 at 1:06 PM Post #4,184 of 10,535
My choice would be Mogami W2893 or W2799. Both are 4 conductor, both have a copper shield that could be used to strengthen the cable if left on.

 
Thanks, the W2799 looks like it would work well. Though what is the proper way to wire it, since I only need three conductors? I'm guessing I would either wire two of the wires to ground, or just leave one of them untouched.
 
Sep 8, 2015 at 1:38 PM Post #4,185 of 10,535
Thanks, the W2799 looks like it would work well. Though what is the proper way to wire it, since I only need three conductors? I'm guessing I would either wire two of the wires to ground, or just leave one of them untouched.


One to the tip (Left), one to the ring (Right), the other 2 to the sleeve (Ground) on both sides. Strip back the copper sleeving that's wound around the cores far enough that it won't touch the connector on either side.
 

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