wolfetan44
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2012
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I'll post a picture later tonight. Honestly, I'm extremely confused.
I'll post a picture later tonight. Honestly, I'm extremely confused.
Anyone have experience with this stripper? http://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-kurve-wire-stripper-cutter-150-solid-and-stranded-wire/918727
Anyone have experience with this stripper? http://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-kurve-wire-stripper-cutter-150-solid-and-stranded-wire/918727
I went to the store today and their computer said they had them in stock, but they couldn't find them
I have a thought and a comment with regards to the 2.5mm connection on the cup of the Sennheiser HD-558. I believe from seeing the headphones a few times, the jack to fit up into the opening on the cup has to be pretty slender to fit. If not, you might be faced with having to enlarge the opening a bit to allow your new cable end to fit properly. This is also why Sennheiser could be using a molded end on the 2.5mm cable connector as it would be much slimmer to fit up in the the opening. Again, just a thought and wanted to give you something to think about before you build the cable and realize you have another hurdle.
The shield or ground is the part with the strain relief tabs. In the little black plastic area you have Tip & Ring, the Right signal wire solders in the little space closest to the threads, Left solders in the other one.
There it is.
Quote:
There it is.
The shield or ground is the part with the strain relief tabs. In the little black plastic area you have Tip & Ring, the Right signal wire solders in the little space closest to the threads, Left solders in the other one.
You need a fine tip and make sure you don't hold the iron there too long as the plastic inside the jack itself will melt and deform or short.
I clamp the plug end very lightly in a metal vise, then I tin the Tip & Ring solder points. Have your wire pre measured and tinned as well, then just solder the Left and Right signal wires onto the solder points.
The vise I use acts as a heatsink while I solder, but prolonged heat will melt the plastic on the plug part. I have a pair of locking forceps that work as well.
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"Closest to the threads"? Sorry man. I'm confused with your use of words. Just tell me this, and I can take it from here, those 2 metal parts, surronded by black, which is the left/right?
Quote:"Closest to the threads"? Sorry man. I'm confused with your use of words. Just tell me this, and I can take it from here, those 2 metal parts, surronded by black, which is the left/right?
Sorry don't mean to confuse, have a look at this.