[liamstrain]

Yah, I think using a female 4 pin mini xlr as the y-split is the best bet - then you can build any number of interchangeable tails (male 4-pin min to X/Y/Z) for it - different lengths, connectors, etc. 

 

[PXSS]

First time using mogami without taking the individual strands. For a 3.5mm interconnect, should I bundle the shield and solder it to ground or leave it alone?

 

[liamstrain]

For grounded equipment, I like to solder the amp side of the shield to ground, but leave the other side unconnected. For ungrounded (battery based) I would just leave it unconnected. 

 

[jenia1]

How would you guys consider the following idea for a LOD for a C&C BH with an ipod?
 

instead of the usuall way where the AMP is rotated 180 degrees and with the green volume wheel next to the ipod LOD output

 

[karmypolitics]

So what sizes of sleeving and shrink tape work best for a regular pair of headphones like the apple in ears monitors?
 
Sleeving smallest I can find is 3/32 and shrink I can find 1/16. 
 
Thinking about just using shrink as housing. 

 

[dxanex]

Hey guys, quick recable question-
 
I have a brand new pair of drivers with two solder points on them, I know the two each must be Left+/Left- and Right+/Right- but they are not labeled. What is the best way to tell? Should I go and get a digital multimeter?
 
If so, would I be able to tell this by holding the positive and negative tips on the multimeter to the solder points directly on the drivers?

 

[ardgedee]

Usually either the + or - pad will have a color mark on it or a notch, bump, or something,

 

[dxanex]

Quote:

Usually either the + or - pad will have a color mark on it or a notch, bump, or something,

Hm, I don't really see anything that looks like a color mark or bump to be honest. I've included a picture... would a digi multimeter work in this situation though?
 

 

[TrollDragon]

Shouldn't matter as long as you hook up both drivers the same way.
Plus to left Negative to right or vice versa. If the audio sound like it coming from outside the headphones then reverse the wires on each driver.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

 

[cssarrow]

Quote:

So what sizes of sleeving and shrink tape work best for a regular pair of headphones like the apple in ears monitors?
 
Sleeving smallest I can find is 3/32 and shrink I can find 1/16. 
 
Thinking about just using shrink as housing. 

Sleeving, i would go with a 1.6mm paracord, shrink wise, 1/16 3:1 should be good (for wire), to cover the ends of the monitors, i recommend 1/8".
Quote:

Hey guys, quick recable question-
 
I have a brand new pair of drivers with two solder points on them, I know the two each must be Left+/Left- and Right+/Right- but they are not labeled. What is the best way to tell? Should I go and get a digital multimeter?
 
If so, would I be able to tell this by holding the positive and negative tips on the multimeter to the solder points directly on the drivers?

Are you replacing an old driver?
Make sure to look at the wires already soldered before removing the old driver, that will save you some time.
Usually there should be a split between the solder points somewhere near the bottom middle.
 
Before soldering, what you can do is plug in the cord and touch the points until you hear audio.
That will surely let you know which is negative/positive.
 
EDIT: I've never seen anything like it.
You don't really need a digi multimeter atm.
What is the brand/model of the driver? I'll try and see what i can pull up.
 
The + seems to split the left side from the right side, so one of those should be positive, while the other, negative.
 
Tim

 

[dxanex]

Quote:

Shouldn't matter as long as you hook up both drivers the same way.
Plus to left Negative to right or vice versa. If the audio sound like it coming from outside the headphones then reverse the wires on each driver.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

\

Ok, that's what I needed to know. Thanks!

 

[TrollDragon]

Now that I think about it, there are probably + & - marks underneath the solder on the end of that tab, sometimes they use the copper on the board to show the marks. If you clean off the tab with some drywick or a solder sucker very carefully you will see what I mean. The copper on that little tab will be missing in the shape of a plus or minus. It looks like a big blob of solder there that would cover the mark.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

 

[alfa147x]

If you're in the States, fraggler's link to Mouser is your best bet. If you don't want to use Mouser, check with some of the cable builders that sell parts, or look for an Auto-IRIS camera plug. Some of the Chinese vendors sell them too -- I've only seen them advertised in large quantities but maybe somebody, somewhere, will sell ones and twos.

Thanks for the heads up

Sorry... I'm not quite sure which connector you're pointing to??

It's the one with the red line going to it. Ignore the arrows!

It looks like an RSA Protector 4-Pin.

http://www.doublehelixcables.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=27

Tim

Cool site. Thanks

A camera connector that somehow is now the standard for portable balanced amps

This is the matching plug for headphone cable:  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kobiconn/163-191J-E/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiVzeGJYwRlHzHtO53G2%2fcJfI%3d

Perfect. Thanks

 

[PakoBoy]

Here's my first project 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/632892/review-sony-mh1-the-best-kept-secret/2085#post_9309125
 
it was a readymade cable so its not something like the pros have done here but i am very proud of it 

 

[Ferminx]

A simple but very useful mini to mini using Rean gold plated plugs and mini XLR cable

Does anyone knows a website to buy silver cable?