[cssarrow]

I know this post is a few months, but I am very interested in making a similar cable. It looks very clean!

I am looking at the clear 3:1 heat shrink on AVOutlet and I was wondering if you remember the diameter needed to do something like this, Fraggler? Is this just a single layer of heatshrink? Is the heatshrink at both the A and B end the same diameter but just shrunk down more on the smaller B connector?
Also, what braiding method is used here?
Cheers!
-jeremyzone

It's pretty see-thru so i'm taking a guess it's a 2:1, could be a 3:1 though.
Round Litz Braid.
Most likely a 1/4" heatshrink before the enclosure cap, then a 3/8" over the entire thing.
3/8" fits on both A and B, however you'll need to stretch the heatshrink a little for type A side.

If you plan on using shielding, make sure you solder it on the inside before putting the cap over.
Soldering on the outside would work too, but would look unprofessional after you put the heatshrink over.
If you accidentally solder on the outside, you can use some 100-200 grit sand paper to brush off the excess.

Tim

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

I know this post is a few months, but I am very interested in making a similar cable. It looks very clean!
 
I am looking at the clear 3:1 heat shrink on AVOutlet and I was wondering if you remember the diameter needed to do something like this, Fraggler? Is this just a single layer of heatshrink? Is the heatshrink at both the A and B end the same diameter but just shrunk down more on the smaller B connector?
 
Also, what braiding method is used here?
 
Cheers!
-jeremyzone

Pretty sure I used 3 to 1 1/2" on both ends (very versatile size).  That is the beauty of 3 to 1.  Looks like I might have done some 3/8" near the connector grip for added stability, but a double layer of 1/2" should work as well if you are worried.  Normally, I use some glueshrink to really secure and seal USB ends, but this one was more and exercise in simplicity and transparency.  Has held up quite well.  I feel that AVoutlet has it cheap enough that I usually get a few feet of 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" to cover nearly all scenarios.  

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

Pretty sure I used 3 to 1 1/2" on both ends (very versatile size).  That is the beauty of 3 to 1.  Looks like I might have done some 3/8" near the connector grip for added stability, but a double layer of 1/2" should work as well if you are worried.  Normally, I use some glueshrink to really secure and seal USB ends, but this one was more and exercise in simplicity and transparency.  Has held up quite well.  I feel that AVoutlet has it cheap enough that I usually get a few feet of 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" to cover nearly all scenarios.  

Oh and that is the standard 4 wire round braid that is most commonly used round here.  
 
Here is a good resource for braiding:  http://www.seekyee.com/Slings/howtos.htm

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

It's pretty see-thru so i'm taking a guess it's a 2:1, could be a 3:1 though.
Round Litz Braid.
Most likely a 1/4" heatshrink before the enclosure cap, then a 3/8" over the entire thing.
3/8" fits on both A and B, however you'll need to stretch the heatshrink a little for type A side.

If you plan on using shielding, make sure you solder it on the inside before putting the cap over.
Soldering on the outside would work too, but would look unprofessional after you put the heatshrink over.
If you accidentally solder on the outside, you can use some 100-200 grit sand paper to brush off the excess.

Tim

Yes, Tim has good advice for the shielding and keeping it clean.
 
I haven't noticed any adverse effects not having a shield.  

 

[jeremyzone]

Thanks a ton for your help, csarrow and Fraggler!
 
I was thinking of making one without shield on it. I know it's definitely far from being up to USB spec to do it that way but if it doesn't work well then I'll go back and make another one or whatever
 
I need to get some pics off my camera of my first cable I made last week. Turned out way better than expected

 

 

[DutchGFX]

So, I'm making a 4 pin to dual 3 pin cable, as well as a hifiman dual hifiman to 1/4 cable. I would like to know what wire I should use. I used Mogami quad last Job but it was so thick and heavy, and not flexible, that I decided not to even use the cable. I was thinking this time I would use individual strands, insulate them, and Teflon them, so, which wire should I get? Flexibility is very important, I love the AKG stock cable flexibility if it helps.

 

[cssarrow]

Quote:

So, I'm making a 4 pin to dual 3 pin cable, as well as a hifiman dual hifiman to 1/4 cable. I would like to know what wire I should use. I used Mogami quad last Job but it was so thick and heavy, and not flexible, that I decided not to even use the cable. I was thinking this time I would use individual strands, insulate them, and Teflon them, so, which wire should I get? Flexibility is very important, I love the AKG stock cable flexibility if it helps.

Inside of the AKG stock cable (light green) looks like this:

 
Seems to be borderline between 24 and 26AWG.
It also has a few strands of cotton wrapped with it (not shown in picture) for dampening/strain purposes.
 
If it's flexibility you need, i recommend 26AWG.
You should be fine with a PE insulated wire.
But if you want it "teflon specific", then you can use a teflon insulated wire then wrap it with some PTFE plumbers tape for a little dampening which would help with the microphonics a little.
 
Just make sure you use some activated rosin flux, it would make your job a whole lot easier (wetting purposes).
 
Tim

 

[DutchGFX]

Yeah I reterminated it, so I see how it works, generally. I just don't know where I would buy the wire from inside the cable. Like, can i just buy radioshack wire lol? Or should i buy Mogami and take the wires out of the rubber?

 

[liamstrain]

I do the latter - taking the innards out of mogami 2893 so I can braid it. There are some sellers on ebay who've done it for you, and other places (like Toxic cables) sell their own better versions. 

 

[PXSS]

Been doing some research on cables and am a little confused.
So:
Cardas 4x24: Oxygen-Free Copper - Litz conductors - no info on strand count - not cryo treated? - $20 for 4X1 foot shielded (moon-audio)
DHC Nucleotide: Ohno Continuous Casting Copper - not litz? - 42 strands @ 40awg. - cryo treated - $2 per foot
Toxic Cables: Ohno Continuous Casting Copper - not litz? - 50 strands - cryo treated. - ~$2 per foot
 
I guess my question is how does the cardas cable compare to the other 2 seeing as it is a litz conductor but doesn't use OCC copper or is cryo treated.
Where is the best source for cardas 4x24?
Are there any DIY Cables out there that are OCC copper litz conductors?
 
Is it all just a scam and I should just use mogami?!?! =P

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

Been doing some research on cables and am a little confused.
So:
Cardas 4x24: Oxygen-Free Copper - Litz conductors - no info on strand count - not cryo treated? - $20 for 4X1 foot shielded (moon-audio)
DHC Nucleotide: Ohno Continuous Casting Copper - not litz? - 42 strands @ 40awg. - cryo treated - $2 per foot
Toxic Cables: Ohno Continuous Casting Copper - not litz? - 50 strands - cryo treated. - ~$2 per foot
 
I guess my question is how does the cardas cable compare to the other 2 seeing as it is a litz conductor but doesn't use OCC copper or is cryo treated.
Where is the best source for cardas 4x24?
Are there any DIY Cables out there that are OCC copper litz conductors?
 
Is it all just a scam and I should just use mogami?!?! =P

Go search the sound science forum for past holy wars about your last statement.  There are those who believe that paper clips soldered together will work just as well as the finest wires on the market.  You will have to sort it out for yourself unfortunately.
 
Cardas seems to be rising in price quite a bit and at this point doesn't seem very cost effective unless you find a dealer willing to cut you a deal.  If you want premade cable with shielding like the Cardas, you can look at Moon Audio's offerings.  Not litz, but OCC copper and silver.  Pretty reasonably priced, too.
 
As far as I know there is no OCC copper litz available to the DIY crowd.  Regular Type2 litz wire is available on the web and ebay if you google around.  

 

[TrollDragon]

Quote:

<snip>
There are those who believe that paper clips soldered together will work just as well as the finest wires on the market. 
</snip>

I keep a can of freeze spray handy to cryo Mein Paper Clipen it tames the highs after the solder is applied... 

 

[liamstrain]

clothes hangers... paper clips have too much resistance. Not much in the way of durability or flexibility either. :/
 
But yes, check out sound science for as much serious discussion as you can handle about metal choice, treatment, configuration and audibility. For my own part, I have yet to see compelling evidence, or even sound theoretical speculation, to suggest that for audio (especially headphone and interconnect usage) cryo/occ/litz/silver etc. make any difference whatsoever - if the R/L/C values are not way out of wack due to faulty construction or bad design choices, there should be no audible or measurable difference between any of them. 

 

[TrollDragon]

And I only use these ones as they are "More Musical" than your standard office stationary brand...
 
I specifically use the headphone ones for headphones... 

Sorry had to be done... back to serious now. 

 

[Toxic Cables]

Quote:

 
Toxic Cables: Ohno Continuous Casting Copper - not litz? - 50 strands - cryo treated. - ~$2 per foot
 
I guess my question is how does the cardas cable compare to the other 2 seeing as it is a litz conductor but doesn't use OCC copper or is cryo treated.
Where is the best source for cardas 4x24?
Are there any DIY Cables out there that are OCC copper litz conductors?
 
Is it all just a scam and I should just use mogami?!?! =P

We do have black cotton sleeved Litz available also, not had a chance to list it yet.