DIY Cable Gallery!!
Apr 2, 2012 at 8:56 AM Post #8,941 of 16,305


Quote:
Yes, but the "Toxic Wires" cable is soooo buttery soft and flexible!


True enough. The 26awg silver one is incredibly flexible! Just beautiful both to look at and to work with.
 
I must finish that up soon...

 
 
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 12:18 PM Post #8,942 of 16,305
Hmmmm, 1st... a new Soldering Iron... then, some 26AWG to build a LOD for my Walkman!
 
Quote:
True enough. The 26awg silver one is incredibly flexible! Just beautiful both to look at and to work with.
 
I must finish that up soon...

 
 



 
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 1:42 PM Post #8,943 of 16,305


Quote:
Hmmmm, 1st... a new Soldering Iron... then, some 26AWG to build a LOD for my Walkman!
 


 


I was asked to make a walkman LOD back in the dark old MOT days... No idea where you get the docks or the pinout for it though.
 
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 2:43 PM Post #8,944 of 16,305
I didn't know the Walkman Tape Players had access to a line out port.
 
Quote:
I was asked to make a walkman LOD back in the dark old MOT days... No idea where you get the docks or the pinout for it though.
 



 
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 5:44 PM Post #8,945 of 16,305
Nothing much to brag about. Using a stiff microphone cable with some Neutrik/Rean plugs. Going to make my own cable from scratch, I've ordered 40 feet of copper wires (20 feet (6 meters) of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pure-Stranded-UP-OCC-Cyro-Treated-7N-Copper-Wire-per-ft-/120887397446 and 20 feet (6 meters) of http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Ft-stranded-26-AWG-Oxygen-free-copper-Polyethylene-clear-/251012382561).
 
I need some advice though, what should I use to sleeve the wires? And I'm not completely happy with the 3.5 mm chassis I put in my headphones, are there any "good" ones available that aren't too expensive?

 
Apr 2, 2012 at 6:22 PM Post #8,946 of 16,305
Hey Peixe, that cable is a very, very neat job. Don't be so modest. Even the heatshrink/strain relief on both jacks look identical, I think you are a guy who pays attention to detail. If your new cable is going to be similar dimension I think paracord whould be suitable to sleeve it in.
 
Good work anyhoo!
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 6:30 PM Post #8,947 of 16,305
Thank you, Spud :) 
 
One of the heatshrinks is somewhat longer, I thought it would shrink more in that direction as well (still a rookie when it comes to sleeving/cable-modding). 
 
Btw, the cable I'm using now I didn't make, I just put on new jacks (in case you thought otherwise, hehe) :)
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 7:08 PM Post #8,948 of 16,305
Peixe the thing is you adding the jacks etc is actually hard on this kind of work, and yours just looks the opposite of ghetto, it looks like something you could buy at a store. Post pics of your next cables. By the way how much did that order cost you?
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 7:23 PM Post #8,949 of 16,305


Quote:
Peixe the thing is you adding the jacks etc is actually hard on this kind of work, and yours just looks the opposite of ghetto, it looks like something you could buy at a store. Post pics of your next cables. By the way how much did that order cost you?


Too much! :D 72 USD.
 
But I've also ordered 50 feet of paracord (25 white, 25 black), some more Neutrik Rean plugs (like the ones in the pic), some Pailiccs plugs (11 of them, 8 black (two different models) and 3 white).

Too scared to add it all up, luckily I get paid in a couple days. 
 
I did a rookie-mistake when I installed the Rean plugs, I held the ground-part of the plug with a plier when trying to get the metal cap on (wouldn't fit at first, used too much solder). 
 
Also not completely happy with how the 3.5 mm chassis sits inside the headphone, when the cable is plugged in it's obvious it's not "in line" with the plastic cover of the headphones, if that makes sense?
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 7:26 PM Post #8,950 of 16,305


Quote:
I need some advice though, what should I use to sleeve the wires? And I'm not completely happy with the 3.5 mm chassis I put in my headphones, are there any "good" ones available that aren't too expensive?
 


I think you did a great job!  What do you mean by a 3.5mm chassis?  Did you use the entire female connector, or did you use a 3.5mm female panel connector?

 
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 7:54 PM Post #8,952 of 16,305
Is it an enclosed one (like the one pictured) or an open one?  What don't you like about it? Is it loose?  If it's slightly loose, you could always reinforce that with a little Epoxy on the inside of the cup.  If you wanted to dress it up... I'd probably just replace the male plugs and leave the one in the headphone alone (as it's pretty much covered once you plug your cable in.  I actually did something similar to this, but I ended up changing an AD700 into a gaming headphone with removable Microphone and headphone cord.
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 8:05 PM Post #8,953 of 16,305
"Something" inside is loose (don't feel like opening them up right now, as I'm listening to music 
smily_headphones1.gif
), so not sure if it's the chassis itself or the metal pins inside the chassis that are supposed to press down on the plug.
 
Regarding closed or open it looks similar to the one on your pic, only it's quite a bit shorter, and the back of it is open.
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 8:21 PM Post #8,954 of 16,305
Gotcha.  Well, good like on whatever approach you decide to go with, and the first link from Toxic Cables is an excellent cable. I've re-cabled my TripleFi 10 with them, and made a LOD.  They sound great!
 
Apr 2, 2012 at 10:08 PM Post #8,955 of 16,305
Finally got around to recabling my HD-650s.  Canare Starquad L-4E5C cable, Neutrik plug, and Canare HPSC plugs from TRAudio....loving how it came out (not bad for a first shot on a Y split either.
 

 

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