DIY Cable Gallery!!
Sep 7, 2011 at 2:31 PM Post #7,441 of 16,305
 
Quote:
Yes it's thicker then the normal stuff but ain't that what you would rather use then 3 or 4 layers of the normal stuff as it would achieve a similar thickness and look tidier.
You would need to buy about 2 sizes larger then what you normally use.

 
It achieves a "thicker thickness", actually.  2 sizes larger???  Well, I already have loads of the stuff, so... lol?
 
I'm not really finding the 3/8" and 1/4" heatshrinks I use to be all that different in thickness.  The 3/16" I use is noticeably thinner.  I often go 2x 1/4" for the y-split (example), and on a couple of occasions, I tried 2x 1/4" with one 3/8" over that.  The latter was quite overkill I think, lol.
 
This is all working with 24-awg wires and nylon braid.
 
Sep 7, 2011 at 3:43 PM Post #7,443 of 16,305
For 3:1 heatshrink I have a variety of sizes I use, typically 3/16" and 3/8". Yes, when shrunk, the 3:1 is thicker than a comparable 2:1. And I believe the original poster was asking about the heatshrink covering the wires after the split, not on the split itself. I use the smallest shrink I can pull on (sometimes I tie a piece of wire or strong fishing line to the twisted wires and pull that through the heatshrink. Heatshrink in its natural form is significantly more flexible than when shrunk.

Moral: Get the smallest size of heatshrink you can get away with.

Brendan
 
Sep 7, 2011 at 5:52 PM Post #7,444 of 16,305
For 3:1 heatshrink I have a variety of sizes I use, typically 3/16" and 3/8". Yes, when shrunk, the 3:1 is thicker than a comparable 2:1. And I believe the original poster was asking about the heatshrink covering the wires after the split, not on the split itself. I use the smallest shrink I can pull on (sometimes I tie a piece of wire or strong fishing line to the twisted wires and pull that through the heatshrink. Heatshrink in its natural form is significantly more flexible than when shrunk.

Moral: Get the smallest size of heatshrink you can get away with.

Brendan


Yeh i was on about shinking the cables after the y, iv ordered 3.2mm and 4.8 which should be ok

I wanted a viablue splitter but cant find a supplier in the uk with a sensible price :frowning2: are there any alternatives or should i just shrink it?

Sent from my Desire HD
 
Sep 7, 2011 at 7:39 PM Post #7,445 of 16,305
 
Quote:
 
This is all working with 24-awg wires and nylon braid.
On the 3/1 and 4/1 the thickness will all depend on how much it is shrunk so if you wanted it really thick rather then using 3 or 4 layers like you originally said you do then it's much better to use 4/1 and the reason for using a size 2 sizes larger then normal is to allow the 4/1 heatshink to shrink alot to achive that thickness because if you use a similar size to the wire you are putting it over then it wont need to shrink much so will not achive that thickness. If you have loads of the stuff then good for you, i dont know what you mean by 3/8" and 1/4" not being all that different in thickness, there is no reason they sould be, i was talking about shrink with 4/1 shrink ratio not 4/1" size.
try it out someday, its much better then using 3 or 4 layers.y ou have loads of the st
 
Edit, maybe i should have putv 4:1 instead of 4/1 my bad.


Oh, 4:1 ratio; that stuff's not as cheap, otherwise I would have tried it out.  And I said double, with triple on a few occasions out of curiosity, not quadruple, lol.  4x has to be definite overkill.  I have yet to try 3:1 ratio as well.
Okay, so 3:1 and 4:1 heatshrinks are thicker when shrunk than 2:1?  Now I understand.
Know where I can get these kinds at $0.06 per foot?  =p
 
 
 
Quote:
For 3:1 heatshrink I have a variety of sizes I use, typically 3/16" and 3/8". Yes, when shrunk, the 3:1 is thicker than a comparable 2:1. And I believe the original poster was asking about the heatshrink covering the wires after the split, not on the split itself. I use the smallest shrink I can pull on (sometimes I tie a piece of wire or strong fishing line to the twisted wires and pull that through the heatshrink. Heatshrink in its natural form is significantly more flexible than when shrunk.

Moral: Get the smallest size of heatshrink you can get away with.

Brendan


x2
 
Sep 7, 2011 at 9:57 PM Post #7,446 of 16,305
I dont suppose anyone knows the wiring for the astro mix amp 4pole headphone/mic port?


Off the top of my head its
Tip= left
Ring=right
Ring=ground
Sleeve=mic+

I think!?
Sent from my Desire HD
 
Sep 8, 2011 at 4:46 AM Post #7,447 of 16,305
here is my DIY Cable
SAM_1888.jpg

SAM_1885.jpg

SAM_1899.jpg

SAM_1890.jpg

SAM_1901.jpg


 
Sep 8, 2011 at 9:25 PM Post #7,449 of 16,305
My first attempt at a Y split headphone cable for some broken portapros that were broken off ebay for just £5.
 
(please excuse the ghetto Y split, I only had some belkin ofc speaker wire, which is quite thick, initially I wanted to use a spare 6.0 OD neutrik barrel as a splitter, but the barrel wasn't large enough for the four wires, in addition to the solder contacts and electrical tape/heatshrink).
 
Terminated with a gold plated switchcraft 3.5mm plug that I salvaged from an old IC I rarely used.
 
I used a glue gun to increase the strength of the connection at the drivers, and used some £2 headphones headband, coupled with an old belt, stitched on for better comfort, definitely a lot more comfortable than the stock headband..
 
Some pleather padded 45mm ear pads should be here soon too...
 

Pleather pads arrived today, and whoa! the Bass is now thumping, but still accurate... Sound leakage is about the same..

 
Sep 8, 2011 at 10:19 PM Post #7,450 of 16,305
one thing i liked about using a 4 wire "litz" braid on my headphone cable was that it did not require any kind of y split material.   After considering and playing around with several ideas, I actually liked it best with nothing at all.  Lighter, less microphonic possibility, less work of course, and looks good too.
 
 
 
Sep 9, 2011 at 8:20 AM Post #7,452 of 16,305
I was actually using a 3 braid, as speaker wire was too thick for the barrel, but if you can get 4 cables into the termination then that's the best way, I split the ground at the split and soldered on the extra 2 grounds, for each driver, used some electrical tape, then aluminium tape on tape (to look more aesthetically pleasing), and clear heatshrink on top of all of that, works really well for me...
 
Sep 9, 2011 at 9:12 AM Post #7,453 of 16,305
how much are those a piece/batch prices, and a website where u buy them? thanks
and could u post pic of the internals if you have time?
how does the size of the barrel compare to the switchcrafts, as I like their size and quality, I now hate working with the neutriks since using the switchcrafts...
 
just had a look  <--- (click me) that's a bit pricey... Is that where and how much u pay for them?
 
Sep 9, 2011 at 7:26 PM Post #7,455 of 16,305
Hello guys, Anyone can direct me to some 3/16'' and 1/8'' soft multifilament in the states? I was about to get it from Hypex but 16$ order and 16$ shipping just doesnt seem right.
 
BTW I also ordered some of that fancy brown sleeve, following Br777 steps.
 

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