DIY Cable Gallery!!
Mar 9, 2010 at 10:06 AM Post #5,327 of 16,312
Hi, i dont know if it is the correct 3d but recently i had to replace the 3.5 jack on my RE252.

this is my very first attemp, i'm a noob
ph34r.gif
, so could you guys tell me if i did everything correctly?



 
Mar 9, 2010 at 3:51 PM Post #5,330 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by WayTooCrazy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I built a gaming setup for my AKG K240s.... here is the new cable.

I attach these to my Astro MixAmp... and it sounds Very good!



Very nice!
 
Mar 9, 2010 at 3:56 PM Post #5,331 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by spz /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hi, i dont know if it is the correct 3d but recently i had to replace the 3.5 jack on my RE252.

this is my very first attemp, i'm a noob
ph34r.gif
, so could you guys tell me if i did everything correctly?



Right = Red = Ring so, if they stuck to the normal conventions, you look good to go on that channel. Hard to tell what you have done with the ground, but since the left and right channels look correct, soldering whatever is left over to ground should work.

Sure hope you put the connector body on before you soldered
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Mar 9, 2010 at 4:02 PM Post #5,332 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by FraGGleR /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Sure hope you put the connector body on before you soldered
smily_headphones1.gif



Can't even tell you how many times I've had to redo things because of that.
 
Mar 9, 2010 at 4:57 PM Post #5,333 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by FraGGleR /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Right = Red = Ring so, if they stuck to the normal conventions, you look good to go on that channel. Hard to tell what you have done with the ground, but since the left and right channels look correct, soldering whatever is left over to ground should work.

Sure hope you put the connector body on before you soldered
smily_headphones1.gif




thanks. Inside the cable there were 2 couples of wires: copper/red and copper/blue. So i've soldered the two copper wires together to the ground and the other two to the left and right channel.
Yeah, i remembered to put the connector body just before start soldering
tongue_smile.gif
 
Mar 9, 2010 at 8:01 PM Post #5,334 of 16,312
536804f16782.jpg

b55f648d4403.jpg

Canare 4e6s, Redco RRCA, Techflex 1/4. 5m IC for CarAudio.
 
Mar 10, 2010 at 4:36 AM Post #5,335 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by S3am /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Canare 4e6s, Redco RRCA, Techflex 1/4. 5m IC for CarAudio.


I like it alot. Super clean with a nice color combination.
 
Mar 11, 2010 at 9:31 AM Post #5,336 of 16,312
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Just recabled my HD238 with Mogami 2534 with XLO 3.5mm; sounds great!
 
Mar 11, 2010 at 12:54 PM Post #5,337 of 16,312
I have a question for you experts... when you use the braided sleeving.... how do you keep it in place so that it doesn't move around? With the cable I built... I just used shrink tubing to keep it in place, but with the use that it gets (it is a gaming cable), I now have 1 end of the sleeving coming loose from the shrink tube and exposing the wire underneath. Is there a method that will not allow this to happen? I was thinking of gluing it somehow to the underlying cable before using the shrink tube. I've recently had requests to make a few more of these, and I don't want to send them out unless I can solve this. Any help would be great, thanks!
 
Mar 11, 2010 at 1:41 PM Post #5,338 of 16,312
That's what I do....spread a layer of hot glue underneath the sheathing, then slide the sheathing over top of it. Lastly, I remelt the glue using a heatgun or a hairdryer and it'll bond to the sheathing. Most of the time I also do either a layer of regular heatshrink (with hot glue again on the sheath before I slide the heatshrink over) or 3:1 dual-wall stuff on top to seal it all up.
 
Mar 11, 2010 at 1:44 PM Post #5,339 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberspyder /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That's what I do....spread a layer of hot glue underneath the sheathing, then slide the sheathing over top of it. Lastly, I remelt the glue using a heatgun or a hairdryer and it'll bond to the sheathing. Most of the time I also do either a layer of regular heatshrink (with hot glue again on the sheath before I slide the heatshrink over) or 3:1 dual-wall stuff on top to seal it all up.


Thx for the info... time to get a Hot Glue Gun...
 
Mar 11, 2010 at 1:52 PM Post #5,340 of 16,312
No problem....I tried a lot of configurations before I settled on this one. And yes, a hot glue gun is almost a necessity when DIYing.....lotsa uses and relatively cheap. If need be, also removable without the nasty residue other glues have.
 

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