DIY Cable Gallery!!
Feb 28, 2010 at 12:24 AM Post #5,311 of 16,312
I'm taking 16 units this quarter, so I've been pretty bored lately. Decide I'd make some cables with some spare parts laying around.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47944739@N02/

Sennheiser hd650/hd600/hd580
Sennheiser Cardas Connectors -> Mogami 2893 Mini Quad -> Viablue SC-2 -> Viablue 1/4" Phono (WBT 4%)

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AKG k702
Mini XLR -> Mogami 2893 Mini Quad -> Vampire 1/4" Phono (WBT 4%)

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What do you guys think?
 
Feb 28, 2010 at 1:30 AM Post #5,312 of 16,312
Welcome to Head-Fi! Sorry about your wallet ix912...
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Your headphone cables look awesome, that y-splitter is a beast. You leave some pretty nice spare parts around
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Feb 28, 2010 at 7:31 AM Post #5,313 of 16,312
I think i get the vote for the ugliest cable,lol. atfirst the right channel on the TRS side was shorting out with ground for some reason, had to bend the prongs a bit



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Feb 28, 2010 at 7:50 AM Post #5,314 of 16,312
Thanks, hembergler. I've been building cables for my friends now, but I decided to build a Sennheiser cable with some spare parts I've acquired over the year. Unfortunately, I don't know what to do with it now.
 
Mar 3, 2010 at 9:42 PM Post #5,317 of 16,312
My first DIY micro(14cm plugs inc.) interconnect cable .REAN plugs. Canare MR202-2AT cable( The cable made of two separate channels. Each channel consists of 2 25 AWG wires in PVC jacket+drain wire and foil shield. I have cut the main cable and used a single channel as a cable-I do not know if its a good idea but it sound good) and a Techflex.

 
Mar 4, 2010 at 8:41 PM Post #5,318 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by momomo6789 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
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first low profile i made
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i really like that low profile LOD.. what kind of wire is that you are using and where did you get it?
 
Mar 5, 2010 at 11:16 AM Post #5,320 of 16,312
Quote:

anyone ever have the pin for the lod break off after every thing was done had the lod done in under 25 mins and pop 30 mins to fix every thing


Hehe, two days ago I disassembled a crappy LOD i made a while ago and attempted to use mogami 2534 with a switchcraft mini plug and some techflex and failed miserably!. After having soldered the two ground wires to pin 2, i was trying to adjust the right channel's wire in place, but the sheer bulk and weight of the cable caused the ground wires to break loose of the pin they were connected to, and after that a series of nightmares followed and I ended up with no dock, no cable, but luckily managed to keep the mini plug intact
biggrin.gif
. Next time, I will make one from scratch because there weren't any extra pins to use after the second one broke. Also, I will strip off more shielding from the cable to allow more flexibility while positioning the wires to the correct pins. So not to worry my friend, you are not the only one who screwed up! Hope that cheered you up!
 
Mar 5, 2010 at 2:43 PM Post #5,321 of 16,312
I've been doing some reading, but I'm totally new to this wire building stuff. I have used Canare Star Quad (the too large size) to re-cable my AKG K240 headphones...
ThuFeb18172043EST2010.jpg

With the wire being so thick, I had to cut off the strain relief off of the Mini-XLR to fit it through, and the wire wouldn't fit into the Neutrik plug, so I had to do some mods there too. I'm ok with the final product (I have techflex to go over this, but didn't use it... as I kinda liked the yellow color).

Now, I've removed all the insulation and was going to add a Mic for gaming purposes and use the stock (or make a new cable) for music listening, but I want to find clear tubing that is still very flexible to cover the bare metal ground sheathing that's there now. Don't ask me why I removed it all... just did for some reason. I just don't know where to look. I also need to purchase the right size cable next time... again, this is my first time... so I really had no idea what I was doing or ordering... lol.
ThuMar04160632EST2010.jpg

In the future, I should order the mini-starquad, and do a few other things differently. I guess it's all just a learning process... just would like suggestions on materials so that it's not such a costly one in the future. I'm also interested in finding out what people use as a flexible heat-shrink tubing. The stuff I got from radioshack hardens up like crazy.
 
Mar 5, 2010 at 3:26 PM Post #5,322 of 16,312
Definitely a learning process. I got into it to save myself money. Now that I literally HAVE to build a cable at least once a week or I get the shakes, it has cost me several times over the cost of the original cables I was going to buy plus maybe even a nice DAC. Whoops.

Oh, and I doubt you will find any tubing that will be thinner or more flexible than the PVC that you stripped off. And certainly nothing that will fit into an unmodified Neutrik.

Great first try, though!
 
Mar 5, 2010 at 3:32 PM Post #5,323 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by drummerdimitri /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hehe, two days ago I disassembled a crappy LOD i made a while ago and attempted to use mogami 2534 with a switchcraft mini plug and some techflex and failed miserably!. After having soldered the two ground wires to pin 2, i was trying to adjust the right channel's wire in place, but the sheer bulk and weight of the cable caused the ground wires to break loose of the pin they were connected to, and after that a series of nightmares followed and I ended up with no dock, no cable, but luckily managed to keep the mini plug intact
biggrin.gif
. Next time, I will make one from scratch because there weren't any extra pins to use after the second one broke. Also, I will strip off more shielding from the cable to allow more flexibility while positioning the wires to the correct pins. So not to worry my friend, you are not the only one who screwed up! Hope that cheered you up!



As soon as I have all the wires soldered in place, I hot glue like crazy to keep it all in place before I start messing with anything else. And maybe I got lucky
smily_headphones1.gif


Give epoxy putty a shot if you want ultimate security and possibly an even lower profile LOD than using those mini connectors.
 
Mar 7, 2010 at 9:24 PM Post #5,324 of 16,312
Quote:

Quote:
Originally Posted by drummerdimitri
Hehe, two days ago I disassembled a crappy LOD i made a while ago and attempted to use mogami 2534 with a switchcraft mini plug and some techflex and failed miserably!. After having soldered the two ground wires to pin 2, i was trying to adjust the right channel's wire in place, but the sheer bulk and weight of the cable caused the ground wires to break loose of the pin they were connected to, and after that a series of nightmares followed and I ended up with no dock, no cable, but luckily managed to keep the mini plug intact . Next time, I will make one from scratch because there weren't any extra pins to use after the second one broke. Also, I will strip off more shielding from the cable to allow more flexibility while positioning the wires to the correct pins. So not to worry my friend, you are not the only one who screwed up! Hope that cheered you up!
As soon as I have all the wires soldered in place, I hot glue like crazy to keep it all in place before I start messing with anything else. And maybe I got lucky

Give epoxy putty a shot if you want ultimate security and possibly an even lower profile LOD than using those mini connectors.


I did apply hot glue right after soldering the pins, but I hadn't stripped enough sleeving, so when I had to insert the cable in place, the movement required to place the cable in place cause the pins to move out etc... next time, I will start from scratch and strip more of the cable to make movement less stiff when it comes to placing it in the cup.
 
Mar 7, 2010 at 11:57 PM Post #5,325 of 16,312
FYI, this applies to everyone:

The plastic shield that comes with almost every plug is often forgotten until everything is soldered together...why fret? Just cut the damn thing in half, and slip it over instead of redoing everything. It'll work most of the time. If you're still uncertain, put some hot glue on the solder joints then slide the shield over top, sealing in everything and preventing the positive contact from touching the ground. However, IMO, if you've but the cable well, and the cable opening is a tight fit with the actual cable, you've already negated the problem that was meant to be solved by the plastic shield, as now there's a much lower chance that the contacts will touch the barrel, thus shorting it.
 

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