[Shawn71]

I think that maybe we worry maybe more than needed about the strain. The exit is pretty snug. I suppose a little heat shrink running inside from around the solder joints to the exit is fine if it really bothers you.
I might care if I was making it for someone else, but I can always fix it if something did happen.
Moreover, we are using much better wire than the hair-thin, 7-strand stuff in stock cables. A good solder joint isn't going anywhere without serious concentrated force. I wouldn't stress it *Rimshot*.

-Answer?- :rolleyes:

 

[Kamakahah]

-Answer?- :rolleyes:

Not sure I understand what you're implying. If it's implying what I think, then I doubt you'll enjoy my response. *insert random emojis here*

 

[Shawn71]

Not sure I understand what you're implying. If it's implying what I think, then I doubt you'll enjoy my response. *insert random emojis here*

welll if you cld post an answer on this thread,why not I post a query that relates to DIY? :rolleyes:

 

[TrollDragon]

Link Right Here...

 

[Kamakahah]

welll if you cld post an answer on this thread,why not I post a query that relates to DIY? :rolleyes:

There it is. Gotta push the red button even after the warning. I'll lay it out softly.

To the point, if you read then you'd understand I never gave an answer because a question was never asked.
Two people made statements about the lack of strain relief based on observations of pictures in a gallery thread. I made counter statements to contest their statements that I felt were mostly unwarranted. Take a minute and reread. Hopefully you'll understand.

That said, our conversation might have been considered to be starting to head a bit off track which must have been the reason you felt open to asking a random question not related to the conversation at hand. A question that the first page makes clear isn't appropriate for this thread as there is another thread perfectly suited for it. Reference the second paragraph in bold on the front page.

When I pointed you to said thread, it had dual purpose:
1. Lead you to where you are more likely to get the answer you seek.
2. Avoiding detailing the thread.

The fact that you chose to ignore my suggestion and instead imply hypocrisy on my part without first reading what you commented on would usually lead me to a less cordial response. Also, adding emojis to sugar coat the B.S. is more insulting than simply stating a grievance.

Hopefully that clears up this misunderstanding.

 

[CoiL]

 

They look really nice. I'm planning on getting a hand full of them soon.

Could you do me a favor? Can you take a picture of the contacts? I want to see what kind they are.

"Soon" . Hopefully shipping takes less time for you.
I like the groove in the ground plate. Now you can solder under instead of worrying about very little clearance with the tip's solder surface.
Also, they added a small groove in the separating plastic between the tip and ring solder surfaces to easily run the wire to the ring surface.
Still not as simple as Neutrik-style, but a big step up from Viablue with the little changes.

Thanks for info on those jacks. Probably going to order few. But one thing I noticed - they have flat plate after tip. Sometime this kind of jacks cause problems with some sockets because they don`t go in 100%. Well, still going to try those someday.
 
Btw, just finished one line-out cable for my DX50. It`s simple and nothing special ( not silver, braided etc.) but still low impedance and great quality cable and jacks:

Van Damme Pro Grade Classic XKE Pro-Patch (smaller OD) cable
+
REAN (Neutrik) NYS373-0 RCA
+
REAN (Neutrik) NYS231BG 3.5mm jack
 
I really like those shorter tiny black 3.5 jacks.

 

[PETEREK]

Cable Transplant, someone cut the D2000 off this cable, we can't let it go unused..
 
This DT880 had a bent 3.5mm connector on it and so did the D2000 cable, so I used what was below the D2000 cable's Y-Split to recable the DT880 and then cut off the 3.5mm connector on the D2000 and replaced it with a Rean 1/4 connector. It looks like there isn't any strain relief on the headphone side, but it's on the inside. The diameter of the cable wouldn't allow me to put heatshrink tubing through it so I made a knot on the inside of the headphone with the 2 runs of 2 wires and then hot glued it. It isn't going anywhere. 
 
If you know what a D2K cable is composed of, you will know there is no need to worry about the cable wearing out at the headphone. There are more layers in this cable than you can imagine.
 

 

[uncola]

Hey guys, I made a diy power cord with 14 awg cable by the foot from home depot and fake oyaide plugs from ebay(dirt cheap ones).  This is a low effort cable, I didn't sleeve it or anything because I didn't think a power cable would make an audible difference and in the 30 minutes I've tested it it hasn't.  Anyway I thought some people would be interested in what the fake oyaide look like.. this is supposed to be platinum/rhodium plated and the prongs are actually smoothly polished and shiny but for all I know it's a super thin layer of chrome or nickel or something  

 

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

[PETEREK]

  Hey guys, I made a diy power cord with 14 awg cable by the foot from home depot and fake oyaide plugs from ebay(dirt cheap ones).  This is a low effort cable, I didn't sleeve it or anything because I didn't think a power cable would make an audible difference and in the 30 minutes I've tested it it hasn't.  Anyway I thought some people would be interested in what the fake oyaide look like.. this is supposed to be platinum/rhodium plated and the prongs are actually smoothly polished and shiny but for all I know it's a super thin layer of chrome or nickel or something  

Very nice! That's one thing I haven't attempted to make yet, a power cord. Maybe someday when I build my own Desktop computer I'll make one. 
 
Good work man

 

[SpyderMan]

Wow those are purdy! Do you sell short RCAs with wooden plugs? My Schiit stack would be happier with a pair of those!

 

[PETEREK]

Pay no attention to the dirty backdrop D:
 
Old faithful; Mogami w2893 in Type 1 paracord with an RSA connector I modified to fit in a SwtichCraft mini XLR barrel so it could be plugged into a Theorum amp straight rather than at a right angle. The cable will be used on a pair of T50RPs like the pair in the bottom picture, they aren't finished yet though.
 
Edit: I used clear heat shrink over my black heat shrink because all the cool people are doing it nowadays.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kamakahah]

[@]cCasper TFG[/@] So the heat shrink thing is kind of like this...

Nice cable. I give it up to anyone with the patience to sleeve with micro paracord.

 

[PETEREK]

@cCasper TFG So the heat shrink thing is kind of like this...

Hahaha exactly. 
 
Yeah it was definitely time consuming, especially because my 8 month old daughter was trying to get the pretty red strings. Hahaha

 

[TrollDragon]

Nice Work, that split would have looked great without any heat shrink on it at all just the cables.
I'm just not a fan of exposed heat shrink.
 
This looks so much better IMHO, with the Right side wire twisted up a bit more to close that little gap.

 

[PETEREK]

Yeah I didn't need the heat shrink tubing there, but I wanted something to match the RSA end of the cable. It can be cut off easily if desired. I normally don't use anything there either, just the split of the braid.