[funch]

  Please guys, a drill is not the way to do it. You're inducing a ton of stresses into the wires which is what makes them want to untwist. You have to let the wires hang loosely and manually loop them over and around each other. The individual wires to not actually "twist", rather they run a helical pattern around each other.

 
 
What he said. Twisting is hereby banned on Head-Fi.

 

[Arty McGhee]

its more like a folding thing than twisting
if the ends are sealed (in this case using adhesive shrink)
it will stay this way, i have some that are several years old
and are like brand new 
 
 
 

 

[WMah]

ugh is there a video that explains this process? i'd use hand twisting and no matter how tight i twist, it all unravels to straight unless I use those stiff solid core wires that have memory effect. seeing as how most of you guys use stranded copper/silver wires that are more flexible with minimal memory effect i am still boggled as to how you guys accomplish this esp after being sleeved with paracord too! I'm almost tempted to do a 6 wire braid so that i'd have 3 wires to braid after the split since i can't get the helix with pairs

 

[ai03]

One thing I have noticed is that if you twist two wires of differing rigidness, the twist will not come out even unless you try extremely hard. Best is to use same gauge wire with same insulation.

I also warn against using Teflon wire in earphone cables or pulling paracord too tight. Terrible cable noise made me disassemble such cables I created.

 

[rgmffn]

  ugh is there a video that explains this process? i'd use hand twisting and no matter how tight i twist, it all unravels to straight unless I use those stiff solid core wires that have memory effect. seeing as how most of you guys use stranded copper/silver wires that are more flexible with minimal memory effect i am still boggled as to how you guys accomplish this esp after being sleeved with paracord too! I'm almost tempted to do a 6 wire braid so that i'd have 3 wires to braid after the split since i can't get the helix with pairs

Just an idea. 
 
I just made a longer cable for my HiFiMan 400i's. I used Mogami 2534 mic cable. After stripping the cover and shield off, the wires are twisted, and they stay twisted. I didn't cover mine with paracord. Left it bare. 

 

[Arty McGhee]

Quote:

  ugh is there a video that explains this process? i'd use hand twisting and no matter how tight i twist, it all unravels to straight unless I use those stiff solid core wires that have memory effect. seeing as how most of you guys use stranded copper/silver wires that are more flexible with minimal memory effect i am still boggled as to how you guys accomplish this esp after being sleeved with paracord too! I'm almost tempted to do a 6 wire braid so that i'd have 3 wires to braid after the split since i can't get the helix with pairs

 

[2ter]

i made this little adapter with leftovers:
 

 

 

[ostewart]

 

 
Glad to see my video is still useful

 

[mengoswag]

Made that cable thing in Z review's video for my hd600s

 

[sbninja]

My new AKG -Q701 cable.
Mogami 2535 wire
1/4" nylon filament sleeve
Neutrik 1/4" connector (black/gold)
Neutrik/Rean Tiny XLR connector
1/2" heat shrink tube
All purchased from Markertek
 
 

 

 

 

[ai03]

Quick hybrid cable for my NT6.

Parts list:

1. Silver plated wire and regular copper wire from BTG audio
2. 90 degree Rhodium plated 3.5mm connector from Aliexpress
3. Eidolic 0.78mm connectors with the red right side marker removed; reused from previous cable
4. Heat shrink, hot glue, Cardas solder, etc.

 

 

 

 
Much better than the stock cable in visuals; seems to be more durable as well. Solid improvement in sound.

 

[Energy]

  Quick hybrid cable for my NT6.

Parts list:

1. Silver plated wire and regular copper wire from BTG audio
2. 90 degree Rhodium plated 3.5mm connector from Aliexpress
3. Eidolic 0.78mm connectors with the red right side marker removed; reused from previous cable
4. Heat shrink, hot glue, Cardas solder, etc.

 
Much better than the stock cable in visuals; seems to be more durable as well. Solid improvement in sound.

 
That's a very nice little clear piece to place over the 3.5mm plug end.
 
Can I make a recommendation?... I recommend a clear 3/16" heat-shrink over the Eidolic connectors and on the 3.5mm plug end. Make 1/2" to 1" longer than your current black heat-shrink on the plug side to use as a strain relief.

 

[ai03]

That's a very nice little clear piece to place over the 3.5mm plug end.

Can I make a recommendation?... I recommend a clear 3/16" heat-shrink over the Eidolic connectors and on the 3.5mm plug end. Make 1/2" to 1" longer than your current black heat-shrink on the plug side to use as a strain relief.

Thank you for the recommendation. I tried clear heatshrink over connectors in the past, but it dulled the look of the carbon fiber on the barrel, and the ones over the Eidolics wore out and slid off after a few months. I might give it another try when I have the time.

 

[Energy]

Thank you for the recommendation. I tried clear heatshrink over connectors in the past, but it dulled the look of the carbon fiber on the barrel, and the ones over the Eidolics wore out and slid off after a few months. I might give it another try when I have the time.

 
Perhaps if you have room underneath the shell, you can shrink it under there and over the wires, and coming out of the connect by half an inch. Super glue after for a air tight seal (inside the connector), give it some time to dry off, and fill it with silicone type I. This helps with cable strain (by using the heatshrink), having a more durable cable (by using superglue), and help with dampening and bonding the shrink to the ABS plastic/shell (by using silicone).
 
The super glue should be an air tight seal though over joint areas otherwise the silicone may do more bad than good.

 

[syntheticfish]

Purple Rain!