DIY Cable Gallery!!
Apr 17, 2013 at 11:31 AM Post #11,791 of 16,305
Quote:
Do any of you know a good place to learn how to make cables? Like a guide of some sort? Also if any of you can point me in the right direction, I want to recable my superlux hd681 but have no idea how to choose cables or anything.

 
You can check the wiki section for help on different connectors and terminating them.  While this thread is SUPPOSED TO BE A GALLERY, it is chock full of people sharing how they built stuff.  I know it takes a while, but if you search for what you want to know, you will find enough info to make your headspin (and to make a great cable).  It is better to do it this way because if you just follow the advice of just one or two people, you will end up with a cable that they like, and not necessarily what you like.  Take the time to learn and enjoy the process.
 
To help you out just a little bit, avoid teflon wires if you want to avoid a stiff cable that picks up mechanical noise easily.  Silver plated copper is great if you can find it in polyethylene, but otherwise is better off in interconnects and internal wiring.  Stick to gauges between 22 and 28, with 26 and 24 being the most commonly used.  Mogami or Canare wires stripped out of their starquad cables are great starter wires available at very reasonable costs.  Beyond that, you have BTG Audio (Mogami wire), and then a whole slew of guys that have nice OCC wire in multiple configurations:  Doublehelix Cables, Toxic Cables, Plussounds, etc.  Personally, I think Jena wire and ALO wires are ridiculously overpriced and should be avoided unless you really want to hook up 18ga wires to your headphones.  Personally, I would focus more on making a good looking cable with the ergonomics that you want, especially considering the headphone ($300 worth of silver won't turn your headphones into something they are not).
 
I have posted links to braiding techniques multiple times, you should be able to find them pretty easily.  
 
Good luck, have fun, and post pictures.
 
Apr 17, 2013 at 6:29 PM Post #11,793 of 16,305
I have this terrible habit of forgetting to put on the strain relief before soldering my cables. Then I have to go and desolder the ends to put the relief on.So today I was making a speaker banana to XLR4 adapter, constantly telling myself to not forget the strain relief. Cut up the wires, sleeved them, stripped, tinned, blah blah blah. Put the strain relief on, did a braid, soldered them up, beautiful!
 
Checked all the connections on my multimeter; good to go. Took my work upstairs and plugged it into the amp, tried to plug in my headphone... well that's odd, the barrels don't fit. Did I use the wrong barrel? or did I not seat it in far enough? Did I...
 
Oh sunova...
 
I've got an XLR male on the end. *headdesk*
 
Apr 17, 2013 at 11:39 PM Post #11,794 of 16,305
Quote:
http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2012/11/pure-silver-mini-to-mini-cable.html
 
Great, can't wait to see your work.
Know what parts you are going to use yet?

 
Yes. I'm going to stick with the neutrik connectors; One right-angled and one regular since I have them on hand already.  I am considering using some Viablue connectors, but we'll see. 
 
The cable i'll be using is from PlusSound audio in Los Angeles. They have a newer DIY copper cable with 75 strands. I ordered some with blue teflon and some with red. Going to do a quad braid with the new colors. Hopefully it looks as good as I picture it in my head. 
 
I was going to use pure silver wire but I thought I might as well get some more practice first and to be totally honest I really wanted the color wires.  
L3000.gif

 
Apr 18, 2013 at 7:24 PM Post #11,795 of 16,305
So I bought Nylon Multifiliment sleeving, but I can't get my ********* wire into it, and its getting on my nerves. The wire keeps getting like stuck I guess. I haven't been able to get it all the way through yet, and its been like 30 minutes. Any ideas?
 
 
Apr 18, 2013 at 7:31 PM Post #11,796 of 16,305
A while back I started using mico paracord, and ran into the same problem. What I do is sand the end of the wire down with a sanding sponge (sandpaper would work as well) to get rid of the wire sticking out past the insulation. I also sand around the edges of the insulation so it will slide through smoothly, but I find that the biggest problem is the wire strands that catch on the soft nylon, so be sure to sand them down flush with the insulation.
 
Apr 18, 2013 at 7:33 PM Post #11,797 of 16,305
Make the end of your wire round so it won't catch. Tape, fold it over, heatshrink etc...

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
 
Apr 18, 2013 at 7:48 PM Post #11,798 of 16,305
Quote:
So I bought Nylon Multifiliment sleeving, but I can't get my ********* wire into it, and its getting on my nerves. The wire keeps getting like stuck I guess. I haven't been able to get it all the way through yet, and its been like 30 minutes. Any ideas?
 

Hold the end of the wire that inside the sleeve, about 4" from the tip, then then push the wire while at the same time pulling the sleeve over the wire, if that makes sense.
 
Apr 18, 2013 at 8:18 PM Post #11,800 of 16,305
The best thing can be to fold the tip of the wire over double so the strands don't catch. If the sleeve is too snug for that, wrap the tip of wire in some plumber's teflon tape (which should be a standard part of your toolkit anyway). If you're pushing a few strands through the same sleeve, teflon tape is a good way to keep them together, too.
 
Apr 18, 2013 at 8:27 PM Post #11,801 of 16,305
I ended up doing what I did with The poly techflex, kinda like what toxic said, thanks for help all :) and pardon my French
 
Apr 18, 2013 at 9:05 PM Post #11,802 of 16,305
Quote:
A while back I started using mico paracord, and ran into the same problem. What I do is sand the end of the wire down with a sanding sponge (sandpaper would work as well) to get rid of the wire sticking out past the insulation. I also sand around the edges of the insulation so it will slide through smoothly, but I find that the biggest problem is the wire strands that catch on the soft nylon, so be sure to sand them down flush with the insulation.

 
I went to the hardware store and picked up some 18 gauge bare solid copper wire, fairly stiff so 18 gauge.  I cut six to eight inches, strip the wire and tin, then solder the 18 gauge wire to the wire you want to sleeve.  I use a hemostat in my vise to hold the copper wire, or you could use you spare hands.  Trick is to use just a little solder and liquid flux, used for stained glass.  If you keep it aligned until cold just make sure theri are no sharp edges to the wire, if you did a good job tinning both the wire and the solid copper, and no solder blobs, you can use that to feed the sleeving on the wire!  Takes a little practice........if you have a rough cut on the 18 ga, just sand it smooth on the end.
 
Hope this helps! 
 
Apr 18, 2013 at 9:28 PM Post #11,803 of 16,305
I just got my Toxic Cables wire in today, and I got off early so I made this cable.  Yes it is the lowly Creative Arvana Live, but for around $50 for the can, and $50 worth of cable I made today it sounds fantastic-very Denon D2000 like. Toxic Cables 24AWG, 6 feet.  I love the Toxic Cables wire, especially the Scorpion.  Think I'll make a custom cable for my TF10 next..
 
 
 

 
Apr 19, 2013 at 1:26 AM Post #11,804 of 16,305

 
Sony XBA 4 Recable
 
Cardas 4x24 awg Cable
Vermouth Rhodium 3.5 Plug
75 Ohm Dale Resistor for Impedance
6mm clear heatshrink for the plug
4mm clear heatshrink for 4 twist cables
3mm clear heatshrink for 2 twist cables
 
Apr 19, 2013 at 4:20 AM Post #11,805 of 16,305
I am going to attempt to make a LOD for a DIYmod, but had a quick Q. In terms of soldering the cap to the connector pins, does the positive lead go there and the negative lead to the wires which eventually terminate at the 3.5 mm jack? Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top