DIY Cable Gallery!!
Apr 2, 2010 at 3:06 AM Post #5,491 of 16,309
Quote:

Originally Posted by Horio /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I bought the grommets from Moon Audio. Just shoot them an email, as its not listed on their website anywhere. The wire is from Double Helix Cables. You can order spare parts for the K702's by emailing the parts department. Feel free to shoot me an PM if you have any questions.


Thank you! Fantastic work by the way.
 
Apr 2, 2010 at 6:30 AM Post #5,492 of 16,309
Quote:

Originally Posted by WayTooCrazy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Well, I decided to try my hand at my first headphone re-cable. It was harder than it seemed, but mostly because I really didn't know what I was doing or how to go about it. I tried to keep the single entry, but the wire just was too thick to fit into the headband to do that, so I switched to dual entry. The end result... they seem to be a little cleaner through out the frequency range, the bass seems a little less flabby, but there really wasn't a huge performance jump.

My only issue is... maybe I pushed too much into the 1/8th inch Nylon sleeving? It looks stiff (I twisted the wiring inside the split), but it really isn't.

Mogami W2534 wiring (stripped and braided)
1/4" & 1/8" Nylon sleeving
Neutrik 1/8" Stereo Plug
RatShack 1/4" plug housing for the split




mogami is a pretty decent quality shielded microphone cable, the copper is nothing special, good, but nothing special, probably no better than the copper you replaced with it (marginally thicker though probably) way I see it by braiding it you have defeated its shielding and thats its big drawcard in the industry it was designed for; i'm not sure I would be expecting a large improvement regardless of burn-in.
kudos for the recable and i'm not dissing your work, seriously you are to be commended, but I think its wise to keep your expectations in check here.
 
Apr 2, 2010 at 6:38 AM Post #5,493 of 16,309
Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif
mogami is a pretty decent quality shielded microphone cable, the copper is nothing special, good, but nothing special, probably no better than the copper you replaced with it (marginally thicker though probably) way I see it by braiding it you have defeated its shielding and thats its big drawcard in the industry it was designed for; i'm not sure I would be expecting a large improvement regardless of burn-in.
kudos for the recable and i'm not dissing your work, seriously you are to be commended, but I think its wise to keep your expectations in check here.



Thank you, I really wasn't expecting much... it was more an exercise in re-cabling than anything. The headphones are actually Sennheiser HD428S that I purchased refurbished from Amazon for $20. They sound decent, but I wanted to try "cheap" headphones before I attempt better ones.
 
Apr 2, 2010 at 10:13 AM Post #5,494 of 16,309
snc00193large.jpg

snc00195large.jpg

snc00194large.jpg
 
Apr 2, 2010 at 12:13 PM Post #5,496 of 16,309
Thanks again limpidglitch. Further posts will be in the IC section which I have just noticed, doh! The final porudct will appear here, but off on holiday so there will be a delay.
 
Apr 2, 2010 at 1:24 PM Post #5,498 of 16,309
Quote:

Originally Posted by Horio /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Here's my first DIY cable. These are split entry balanced K702's. I litz braided some Double Helix Nucleotide wire and encased part of it in carbon techflex. The cable was left "naked" at the Y. I ordered a second right side ear cup and used some rubber grommets from Moon Audio for strain relief. The setup sounds great!


Horio.. nice work. Hope I can do something that looks as good as that for my first go
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Apr 2, 2010 at 3:45 PM Post #5,499 of 16,309
Quote:

Originally Posted by Room40 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Horio.. nice work. Hope I can do something that looks as good as that for my first go
smily_headphones1.gif



Thanks Room40. It's as much about planning and taking your time as anything. Just be patient and careful, and it should turn out great!
 
Apr 2, 2010 at 5:28 PM Post #5,500 of 16,309
Quote:

Originally Posted by apatN /img/forum/go_quote.gif
m11a1 is that Mogami wire?


Yes, 2534.
 
Apr 3, 2010 at 12:22 AM Post #5,502 of 16,309
A new sleeving style I cooked up after finding some craft cord at Michaels (arts and crafts store).

Behold, the "Ebony and Ivory"

fraggler-albums-diy-cables-picture5168-ebony-ivory-mini.jpg

fraggler-albums-diy-cables-picture5170-ebony-ivory-close.jpg


Each of the 4 strands of Mogami 24awg wire was fed through some of the craft cord and then separated into two pairs (right+ground, left+ground), then the two pairs were twisted together to form a starquad. I used Neutriks as the base for my enameled and glazed polymer clay connectors. Pretty pleased with the aesthetics. For daily use, though, I might add some clear or teflon techflex. Best thing is that 10m of the cord is only $1.49.
 
Apr 3, 2010 at 2:17 AM Post #5,503 of 16,309
Working on a cable and have a question: Will liquid electrical tape work well for any exposed wire around the solder-point to the tab? Would small heat shrink tubing work better? Combination of both?
 
Apr 3, 2010 at 3:07 AM Post #5,504 of 16,309
Quote:

Originally Posted by maddhat /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Working on a cable and have a question: Will liquid electrical tape work well for any exposed wire around the solder-point to the tab? Would small heat shrink tubing work better? Combination of both?


Liquid electrical tape was made for that, heat shrink should work fine, I use hotglue, some use epoxy, and some don't bother.
 
Apr 3, 2010 at 3:24 AM Post #5,505 of 16,309
Quote:

Liquid electrical tape was made for that, heat shrink should work fine, I use hotglue, some use epoxy, and some don't bother.


Great, thanks for the input! I've tried hot glue before with covering solder points and I just don't enjoy how bulky it gets so quickly. I've also worried about melting the jacket with the glue. Well, I'll see how the liquid tape + heatshrink works and post back once it's completed.
 

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