bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
ROFL!!!! I haven't seen a bottle of that in probably 40 years. I've never had a shot of kerosene, but I'll bet a '53 Foton it tastes better.
ROFL!!!! I haven't seen a bottle of that in probably 40 years. I've never had a shot of kerosene, but I'll bet a '53 Foton it tastes better.
^^ no problem for anyone with a name like Ripper2860…..(ft/lbs)…..The last time angels whispered in my ear it was the lyrics to a Marilyn Manson song. Of course, the locks on the gates of heaven^^ will surely be reinforced when my time draws near, so this is a YMMV kinda thing.
… only because MD came in a hip flask…that was definitely a more classy drink than mad dog.
All we need is this to complete the history of the nastiest alcoholic beverages ever created.… only because MD came in a hip flask…
Very true. But some of the current production tubes actually sound pretty good. KR's are nice as are some of the PSVanes, and some of the old name brands that were resurrected and currently made in Russia (or at least were being made) are decent. Not at NOS caliber IMO, but a far cry from the utter sludge that was being produced there (and in China) in the '80's through early '00's.
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Having the base separate from the glass is not uncommon with NOS tubes. Since you've been careful to handle it by the base only it's unlikely any damage has occurred, but it's best to re-glue it to prevent a future accident and/or stressing the element wires in the base. I use Rhino Glue which is just a brand name for good old cyanoacrylate (Krazy Glue). Some use clear nail polish, and I'm sure there are other adhesives that will work well too. I carefully clean around the glass/base juncture with some isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip, then drip some glue where the glass and base meet in 4 or 5 places around the perimeter and let it dry overnight. Haven't had one break loose again after doing that....so far.I have been tube-rolling all day and I pulled my WE421A out (of the amp) for the first time in probably months. Note: I ALWAYS grab my tubes by the base!...
However when I removed the WE421A (holding it from the base) i could feel the glass was loose and moving relative to the base. (it wiggles) Is this going to cause it to fail? Any precautions i should take? I really dont want to lose this tube as they are expensive! Ive never had a tube "loosen" like this so i am not even sure if it is a valid concern or not (I am not familiar with the mechanical construction here only electrical parameters)
Thanks.
Having the base separate from the glass is not uncommon with NOS tubes. Since you've been careful to handle it by the base only it's unlikely any damage has occurred, but it's best to re-glue it to prevent a future accident and/or stressing the element wires in the base.
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Having the base separate from the glass is not uncommon with NOS tubes. Since you've been careful to handle it by the base only it's unlikely any damage has occurred, but it's best to re-glue it to prevent a future accident and/or stressing the element wires in the base. I use Rhino Glue which is just a brand name for good old cyanoacrylate (Krazy Glue). Some use clear nail polish, and I'm sure there are other adhesives that will work well too. I carefully clean around the glass/base juncture with some isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip, then drip some glue where the glass and base meet in 4 or 5 places around the perimeter and let it dry overnight. Haven't had one break loose again after doing that....so far.
I hate to muddy the waters, but I've been told not to glue the base to the glass. Supposedly the different rate of expansion/contraction between the glass and plastic can increase the chance of cracking.I agree with this. Just fix the base to the glass compartment and everything should be fine
Interesting. The base was glued to the glass at the factory, or they'd all be loose even when brand new.I hate to muddy the waters, but I've been told not to glue the base to the glass. Supposedly the different rate of expansion/contraction between the glass and plastic can increase the chance of cracking.
Ahh, I got the impression that it was just press fit between the glass and base. Or maybe it depends on the glue. I do know folks told me when I asked about fixing cracked bases not to get CA (crazy glue) on both the base and glass because of the heating/cooling thingInteresting. The base was glued to the glass at the factory, or they'd all be loose even when brand new.
I have had (and have seen) octals with a crack in the base. Was it caused by the differing expansion rates, or by rough handling, or by a weak spot when manufactured? Don't know. Perhaps different things at different times. Personally though, I'd rather deal with a cracked base than a totally dead tube caused by an element lead breaking or coming loose as a result of the loose base.
I agree that 6F8G is very hard to match up by a 6SN7. 6C8G is not as good as 6F8G, but it also beat most of my 6SN7s.You would be extremely pressed to find 6SN7s that come close to what a 6F8G/6C8G can do in my opinion at least in the DV. I'm sure the 6F8G/WE421A is a nice pairing.