Darkvoice 336i & 336SE Tuberolling PartII
Nov 14, 2022 at 8:56 PM Post #13,771 of 14,518
ROFL!!!! I haven't seen a bottle of that in probably 40 years. I've never had a shot of kerosene, but I'll bet a '53 Foton it tastes better. 🤣
 
Nov 14, 2022 at 8:57 PM Post #13,772 of 14,518
The last time angels whispered in my ear it was the lyrics to a Marilyn Manson song. Of course, the locks on the gates of heaven^^ will surely be reinforced when my time draws near, so this is a YMMV kinda thing. 🤣
^^ no problem for anyone with a name like Ripper2860…..(ft/lbs)…..💪 🤣
 
Nov 14, 2022 at 9:03 PM Post #13,773 of 14,518

that was definitely a more classy drink than mad dog.

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Nov 14, 2022 at 9:23 PM Post #13,774 of 14,518
Nov 14, 2022 at 9:28 PM Post #13,775 of 14,518
… only because MD came in a hip flask… 🤪😵
All we need is this to complete the history of the nastiest alcoholic beverages ever created. :laughing:

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Nov 14, 2022 at 9:32 PM Post #13,776 of 14,518
For an undergraduate degree in Greek at Puke University, mix MD-20/20 with: Tavola Red (cheap red wine with a tablecloth label), RC Cola, and grain CH3CH2OH; stir vigourously in & serve from:
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Nov 15, 2022 at 5:19 AM Post #13,777 of 14,518
Very true. But some of the current production tubes actually sound pretty good. KR's are nice as are some of the PSVanes, and some of the old name brands that were resurrected and currently made in Russia (or at least were being made) are decent. Not at NOS caliber IMO, but a far cry from the utter sludge that was being produced there (and in China) in the '80's through early '00's.

Yes, it's great that we have KR, Emission Labs, Psvane, Linlai, Elrog, Takatsuki and more. There's a ton of good tubes from these manufacturers and I hope they'll continue doing what they do.
 
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Nov 22, 2022 at 3:33 PM Post #13,778 of 14,518
I have been tube-rolling all day and I pulled my WE421A out (of the amp) for the first time in probably months. Note: I ALWAYS grab my tubes by the base!...

However when I removed the WE421A (holding it from the base) i could feel the glass was loose and moving relative to the base. (it wiggles) Is this going to cause it to fail? Any precautions i should take? I really dont want to lose this tube as they are expensive! Ive never had a tube "loosen" like this so i am not even sure if it is a valid concern or not (I am not familiar with the mechanical construction here only electrical parameters)

Thanks.

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Nov 22, 2022 at 11:24 PM Post #13,779 of 14,518
I have been tube-rolling all day and I pulled my WE421A out (of the amp) for the first time in probably months. Note: I ALWAYS grab my tubes by the base!...

However when I removed the WE421A (holding it from the base) i could feel the glass was loose and moving relative to the base. (it wiggles) Is this going to cause it to fail? Any precautions i should take? I really dont want to lose this tube as they are expensive! Ive never had a tube "loosen" like this so i am not even sure if it is a valid concern or not (I am not familiar with the mechanical construction here only electrical parameters)

Thanks.

fSPnlaN.png
Having the base separate from the glass is not uncommon with NOS tubes. Since you've been careful to handle it by the base only it's unlikely any damage has occurred, but it's best to re-glue it to prevent a future accident and/or stressing the element wires in the base. I use Rhino Glue which is just a brand name for good old cyanoacrylate (Krazy Glue). Some use clear nail polish, and I'm sure there are other adhesives that will work well too. I carefully clean around the glass/base juncture with some isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip, then drip some glue where the glass and base meet in 4 or 5 places around the perimeter and let it dry overnight. Haven't had one break loose again after doing that....so far.
 
Nov 23, 2022 at 5:12 AM Post #13,780 of 14,518
Having the base separate from the glass is not uncommon with NOS tubes. Since you've been careful to handle it by the base only it's unlikely any damage has occurred, but it's best to re-glue it to prevent a future accident and/or stressing the element wires in the base.

I agree with this. Just fix the base to the glass compartment and everything should be fine :)
 
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Nov 23, 2022 at 1:10 PM Post #13,781 of 14,518
Having the base separate from the glass is not uncommon with NOS tubes. Since you've been careful to handle it by the base only it's unlikely any damage has occurred, but it's best to re-glue it to prevent a future accident and/or stressing the element wires in the base. I use Rhino Glue which is just a brand name for good old cyanoacrylate (Krazy Glue). Some use clear nail polish, and I'm sure there are other adhesives that will work well too. I carefully clean around the glass/base juncture with some isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip, then drip some glue where the glass and base meet in 4 or 5 places around the perimeter and let it dry overnight. Haven't had one break loose again after doing that....so far.

I agree with this. Just fix the base to the glass compartment and everything should be fine :)
I hate to muddy the waters, but I've been told not to glue the base to the glass. Supposedly the different rate of expansion/contraction between the glass and plastic can increase the chance of cracking.
 
Nov 23, 2022 at 4:17 PM Post #13,782 of 14,518
I hate to muddy the waters, but I've been told not to glue the base to the glass. Supposedly the different rate of expansion/contraction between the glass and plastic can increase the chance of cracking.
Interesting. The base was glued to the glass at the factory, or they'd all be loose even when brand new.

I have had (and have seen) octals with a crack in the base. Was it caused by the differing expansion rates, or by rough handling, or by a weak spot when manufactured? Don't know. Perhaps different things at different times. Personally though, I'd rather deal with a cracked base than a totally dead tube caused by an element lead breaking or coming loose as a result of the loose base.
 
Nov 23, 2022 at 5:09 PM Post #13,783 of 14,518
Interesting. The base was glued to the glass at the factory, or they'd all be loose even when brand new.

I have had (and have seen) octals with a crack in the base. Was it caused by the differing expansion rates, or by rough handling, or by a weak spot when manufactured? Don't know. Perhaps different things at different times. Personally though, I'd rather deal with a cracked base than a totally dead tube caused by an element lead breaking or coming loose as a result of the loose base.
Ahh, I got the impression that it was just press fit between the glass and base. Or maybe it depends on the glue. I do know folks told me when I asked about fixing cracked bases not to get CA (crazy glue) on both the base and glass because of the heating/cooling thing
 

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