[therremans]

It happens. to all of us. no biggie. Watching this video about 6sn7 tubes thinking I know it all and the guy is telling me stuff I never knew! Like ..what does the GT stand for in 6SN7GT... ?

Glass tube

 

[JKDJedi]

Glass tube

yes!! Trip out in the Mullard 5692.... is it fake?

 

[JKDJedi]

 

[Slade01]

It happens. to all of us. no biggie. Watching this video about 6sn7 tubes thinking I know it all and the guy is telling me stuff I never knew! Like ..what does the GT stand for in 6SN7GT... ?

Lol. Doesn't "GT" mean "Glass Tubular"? A distinction for cylindrical shape tube vs just the "G" - glass envelope (coke bottle style)? Although I did get confused as for 6SN7, all of them are in glass envelopes, and either short or tall. Then I thought the T in GT meant Tall.

 

[Slade01]

Okay that makes me feel a little better about my one Mullard. It was that pair I got labeled 8060, one of them started to glow a bright white after about ten minutes of use. But it still had a vacuum. I thought it would be a good tube to practice on and so I did. I was successful in removing the old solder with that new pump and replacing it. It went very well with the solder paladin recommended. The only issue I had was that it wanted to bubble out some but I eventually got it to stay in. (I thin I was using about 300-400 degrees to heat the pins enough to melt the old solder)

Powered it up.. it hardly had a glow to it and I slowly watched the silver fade into nothing and go clear. So it was toast once it went white maybe and my solder job was just for practice.

next time I’ll try the chisel tip and 750 degree.

I'm sorry to hear about your Mullard 8060. At least you had the chops to try to give it a shot to resuscitate it Were it in my hands, it would go straight into the trash can. Much like one of my 10 dollar bargain 7N7 Frankies - filament just failed, no glow. Dead as dead. It lasted about a month of casual use, then nothing.

 

[therremans]

Out of all of my power tubes, the 5998 is the only one that makes pinging noises as the glass heats and cools. Has anyone else heard it?

 

[JKDJedi]

Out of all of my power tubes, the 5998 is the only one that makes pinging noises as the glass heats and cools. Has anyone else heard it?

I'm afraid to wear my headphones when warming up tubes.. sometimes I get a loud POP! (no matter which tube I put in) These guys are 100 years old so yeah, pings, farts, should be expected. So here's a random thought.. that RAtheon VT-99 you pointed me too... da b o m b... with RCA Chatham 6as7g

 

[JKDJedi]

Lol. Doesn't "GT" mean "Glass Tubular"? A distinction for cylindrical shape tube vs just the "G" - glass envelope (coke bottle style)? Although I did get confused as for 6SN7, all of them are in glass envelopes, and either short or tall. Then I thought the T in GT meant Tall.

Probably right.. the guy in the vid had a hard on for them side getter GTE so what does he know..L MF A O .. and the Mullard 5692.. they looked like Fotons!

 

[therremans]

I'm afraid to wear my headphones when warming up tubes.. sometimes I get a loud POP! (no matter which tube I put in) These guys are 100 years old so yeah, pings, farts, should be expected. So here's a random thought.. that RAtheon VT-99 you pointed me too... da b o m b... with RCA 6as7g ..who would've thunked it.

Yes for me its only audible in person and not through the headphones. I will put that combo on later. side note, I bought the A2293s.

 

[JKDJedi]

Yes for me its only audible in person and not through the headphones. I will put that combo on later. side note, I bought the A2293s.

Glass pings like that sometimes, like an old glass pot from the coffee maker. Dual A2293 in the power slot. let us know how it works out, I had bad luck with that. Long story..

 

[therremans]

Glass pings like that sometimes, like an old glass pot from the coffee maker. Dual A2293 in the power slot. let us know how it works out, I had bad luck with that. Long story..

Yeah its common with glass but found it odd that it's the only tube I own that does it. @Deyan will hopefully make me another adapter for the A2293s to match the one he made for the 6j5s.

these are supposed to sound similar to a gec 6080 mixed with a 6as7g. i am determined to hear it on the darkvoice.. i think it will work out.

 

[therremans]

Well I guess now I know the VT-99 can have both styles of getters as mine is the open square and my regular model has the dimple foil square. I know from previously talking that your VT-99 has the dimpled square foil.

VT-99:


Std:

 

[SHIMACM]

I should have powered it on after it glowed when I was testing it.. I did not though, so I'll never know if that was it's dying glow or it was related to the soldering. But bcowen makes me think it was gone anyways. I mean it was BRIGHT, i thought it was about to explode. I still got the one that is working very well. Remember I only paid about $20 each. I did have another $20 in shipping though. I would have been better off buying a nos from langrex since I still spent $60 for the one working mullard. However it was a risk I took. I now have the dual getter version at least.

My Mullard shines like a lamp. Later I will put a picture of him access here.

 

[SHIMACM]

Out of all of my power tubes, the 5998 is the only one that makes pinging noises as the glass heats and cools. Has anyone else heard it?

My Chatham 6as7g makes that noise when it gets hot and cold.

 

[bcowen]

Okay that makes me feel a little better about my one Mullard. It was that pair I got labeled 8060, one of them started to glow a bright white after about ten minutes of use. But it still had a vacuum. I thought it would be a good tube to practice on and so I did. I was successful in removing the old solder with that new pump and replacing it. It went very well with the solder paladin recommended. The only issue I had was that it wanted to bubble out some but I eventually got it to stay in. (I thin I was using about 300-400 degrees to heat the pins enough to melt the old solder)

Powered it up.. it hardly had a glow to it and I slowly watched the silver fade into nothing and go clear. So it was toast once it went white maybe and my solder job was just for practice.

next time I’ll try the chisel tip and 750 degree.

Well bummer. That bright white glow you saw before re-soldering was a pretty good indication of oxygen contamination (from a vacuum leak). Just theorizing here, but short of the glass being broken somewhere, that leak could only come from where the lead wires exit the bottom of the glass. While heating the pins (within reason) shouldn't affect the glass seal on a good tube, if the seal was already compromised around one of those lead wires, perhaps the heat of soldering was enough to disturb it just enough more to cause a total loss of vacuum much more rapidly.

Sorry about your lost tube, but on the bright side your pin soldering looks very nice!