Yeah, your case is the second case of Garage 1217 adapter shorting Crack chassis that I've seen here. Some Crack builders like to keep their 12AU7 socket low-profile, so they choose to mount it from the bottom of the chassis instead of to the top. Then, there won't be enough clearance for these exposed solder joints at the bottom of these Garage 1217 adapters, they will touch the metal chassis/screws and cause shorts.
Adding a plastic/rubber cylinder will protect against the exposed metal legs on top of the Garage 1217 adapters, but still the exposed solder joints at the bottom pose another threat to safety.
All in all, these Garage 1217 adapters lack of basic safety considerations (tubes are high voltage stuff in general, hence the exposed metal contacts pose huge threats), they are half-done products and should be avoided IMO.
I have one of each. With the Garage one in its end cap the bit that would have been the top of the cap is cut but the curve left so it sits past the PCB and holds the adaptor up a mm or so from the noval socket without it being wobbly.
End cap is on the left, Garage adaptor in the middle and ebay adaptor on the right.
I have one of each. With the Garage one in its end cap the bit that would have been the top of the cap is cut but the curve left so it sits past the PCB and holds the adaptor up a mm or so from the noval socket without it being wobbly.
End cap is on the left, Garage adaptor in the middle and ebay adaptor on the right.
Why bother trying to fix a half-done product. Your solution seems to fix most of the problems, but still there are exposed solder joints at the bottom, which can potentially short the screws on the chassis if you push down the Garage adapter too hard.
I don't think lots of people can complete the kind of fix-up that you did, nice workmanship though.
Why bother trying to fix a half-done product. Your solution seems to fix most of the problems, but still there are exposed solder joints at the bottom, which can potentially short the screws on the chassis if you push down the Garage adapter too hard.
I don't think lots of people can complete the kind of fix-up that you did, nice workmanship though.
New RCA Victor with a copper metal plate below the plate not sure what's the name but this tube so much better then regular RCA 6as7g. You can see the copper in the pic. Also lucky tube dead silent
New RCA Victor with a copper metal plate below the plate not sure what's the name but this tube so much better then regular RCA 6as7g. You can see the copper in the pic. Also lucky tube dead silent
Nice find, RCA tubes with a Victor label indicate they are early production RCA tubes, normally in 40's or 50's I think, so they should be better than the late production RCA tubes in 60's and 70's.
RCA 6AS7Gs with copper skirts do not come up very often, these copper skirts look cool, they serve as RFI shielding, so should not affect the sound, but because this is an early production 6AS7G, I guess that's why you heard a better sound.
Not a Crack, but thought you’d enjoy this all-300b Bottlehead system. The Pre Bee 2 is just outstanding, and the amps are variations of an older Parabee design with Magnaquest nickel 2004 transformers and Mundorf Silver foil oil caps.
I don't specifically for the 880/600 but I do with the T1 Gen2 which is 600 ohm also. It's a match made in heaven. I also use it with the DT1990 and Amiron Home (both 250 ohm). It sounds great with anything above 150 ohm to my ears. I bet it will sound great with your 880.
So I’m in a similar boat as dawgfish, as the 880 is pretty much the only beyer I haven’t tried. Of all the beyer, including the T1, my favorite with the crack was the amiron home. Sure the T1 is a better performer but the amiron had Greater comfort and was good for movies and media. The 990 and 770 weren’t nearly as impressive to me as the senheiser hd600 or 650, and I didn’t feel like the bhc made a significant difference compared to solid state amps. It didn’t seem to change the sound as much as the senns. Ymmv of course!
Hey there! I recently sold a working Crack w/ SB. The buyer says that he is getting very low volume. I was wondering if this could be a bad tube? I gave him extra power and input tubes. I'm guessing I should ask him to try all tube configurations to see if that helps. Any other suggestions? As mentioned, I know this amp worked fine when I listened to it last week before listing it for sale. I am wondering if one of the tubes went bad or was damaged in shipping. Makes me nervous as I have never sold anything that didn't work as intended! The Crack came pre-assembled to me, so I have zero knowledge or skills in diagnosing anything wrong with the electronics but I suspect that it's tube-related. Does this sound like something that could happen with a bad tube? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hey there! I recently sold a working Crack w/ SB. The buyer says that he is getting very low volume. I was wondering if this could be a bad tube? I gave him extra power and input tubes. I'm guessing I should ask him to try all tube configurations to see if that helps. Any other suggestions? As mentioned, I know this amp worked fine when I listened to it last week before listing it for sale. I am wondering if one of the tubes went bad or was damaged in shipping. Makes me nervous as I have never sold anything that didn't work as intended! The Crack came pre-assembled to me, so I have zero knowledge or skills in diagnosing anything wrong with the electronics but I suspect that it's tube-related. Does this sound like something that could happen with a bad tube? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If he is getting sound in both channels, but low volume, it could be a tube that has gone bad. Another thing to check would be the volume potentiometer to see if any wires have come loose. Shipping is rough on these unless they're shipped in a very particular way; wrapped both ways with bubble wrap and then shipped upside down (resting on the top plate). I've received pre made stuff in the mail in the past as part of trades and twice I've had screws come loose and wires detach.
Does the buyer have any experience with building a kit? If not, and it's NOT a tube, you may have a problem, because even if he can find the issue he may not be able to fix it. I would recommend the following:
1. Try a different combination of tubes
2. check your chain to determine if something is off with input or output
2. Check every wire connection to see if any wires had come loose during shipping, starting with the volume pot and the wires going to it
The greatest resource is going to be the bottlehead forum. Posts there get responses from the people at bottlehead to troubleshoot. You can also post here and we'll help as much as we can. Generally to diagnose an issue he'll need a voltometer in order to check voltages. Hopefully its a tube, or an obvious issue like a missing wire.
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Your solution seems to fix most of the problems, but still there are exposed solder joints at the bottom, which can potentially short the screws on the chassis if you push down the Garage adapter too hard.
