Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Apr 18, 2015 at 6:17 AM Post #6,828 of 12,335
So, I finished the build a little bit ago and am having a channel imbalance. Both sides have sound but the left has a hum even at low volume, and is muffled when the volume is raised. I have looked everything over but can't find anything that has been connected wrong. Where should I start troubleshooting this further?
 
Apr 18, 2015 at 12:40 PM Post #6,830 of 12,335
  Well isn't it a little ridiculous to have have it for download. I bought mine used on here who I'm sure more than supports bottlehead if there is something wrong with sharing the manual that's just messed up if you ask me.

I'm sorry that I am not quite able to decipher the grammar in this post. If you purchased the kit from someone other than Bottlehead, they would have the manual that came with the kit.
 
Apr 18, 2015 at 2:32 PM Post #6,831 of 12,335
  Well isn't it a little ridiculous to have have it for download. I bought mine used on here who I'm sure more than supports bottlehead if there is something wrong with sharing the manual that's just messed up if you ask me.


whoever sold you the amp is just as responsible for giving you the instructions.  You should have made sure it was part of the deal, or had the seller contact bottlehead for instructions. they at least have a record of him buying it if he is the original owner.  This isn't just an instruction manual, its a complete step by step on how to build the amp.
 
They likely don't just put the manual up for download because it is so detailed, that you could build the amp from the instructions without buying the kit.  This is pretty unlikely because it would be a huge pain tracking down parts and the like, but if someone was so inclined, it could be done.
 
so, while this doesn't help you, it should put bottleheads position into slight perspective.  I imagine though that with a little bit of effort, you will find the instructions.
 
Apr 18, 2015 at 11:09 PM Post #6,832 of 12,335
Now I'm starting to see why they named it the crack....yea I was addicted. Now I'm cut off..



I have 4 5998's , 1 Western Electric 421A, FAA(whatever that is), Sylvania 6080(I think not pictured) and countless 12au7 as you can see all crack tubes in left slot. And all 6dj8 on left side for my Aune T1 feeding the crack.
 
Apr 19, 2015 at 12:18 AM Post #6,833 of 12,335
You dont have to get the exact same transformer. You can always find a transformer thats close and vary the resistors in the power supply to get the appropriate B+ voltage.

 
Hmm, I don't think its worth it. The Crack kit is relatively speaking, very cheap.  Plus the money is well spent keeping a maw and paw shop alive. 
 
Apr 19, 2015 at 5:03 AM Post #6,834 of 12,335
Hmm, I don't think its worth it. The Crack kit is relatively speaking, very cheap.  Plus the money is well spent keeping a maw and paw shop alive. 


+1

@hdtv00 - so you're the one driving up prices! :wink:
 
Apr 20, 2015 at 5:42 AM Post #6,835 of 12,335
You dont have to get the exact same transformer. You can always find a transformer thats close and vary the resistors in the power supply to get the appropriate B+ voltage.


If you can do that, you probably don't need the manual at all. :p
 
 
I just posted the link here because it is very hard to get the manual, I asked a few times and never received it so I tried to find the manual on the internet.
 
It's probably better to get the manual directly from bottlehead. That way you have the most up to date version. But still it's better than nothing.
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 7:06 PM Post #6,837 of 12,335
It seems that the 5998 is everyone's preferred power tube, so I'll pick up one of those at some point. I'm curious about what people find to be the most realistic and natural sounding input tube, though? Other mods I plan on doing soon are replacing the output capacitors with Dayton polyproylene caps (2 x $24, not bad), and a stepped attenuator--any recommendations below $50? I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible.

I may have to place the order for the tubes soon since I think I might have busted my power tube when it rolled off the table onto the floor maybe 1.5 ft while installing Speedball. The amp is really quiet and the left channel barely comes through at all. It could also be an issue with the Speedball but I've double and triple checked all the connections and everything is in the right place.
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 7:14 PM Post #6,838 of 12,335
It seems that the 5998 is everyone's preferred power tube, so I'll pick up one of those at some point. I'm curious about what people find to be the most realistic and natural sounding input tube, though? Other mods I plan on doing soon are replacing the output capacitors with Dayton polyproylene caps (2 x $24, not bad), and a stepped attenuator--any recommendations below $50? I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible.

I may have to place the order for the tubes soon since I think I might have busted my power tube when it rolled off the table onto the floor maybe 1.5 ft while installing Speedball. The amp is really quiet and the left channel barely comes through at all. It could also be an issue with the Speedball but I've double and triple checked all the connections and everything is in the right place.

I'm having a similar issue with my Crack, I have not installed my Speedball yet though. I'm actually sending mine over to Krikor so he can take a look at mine for me, I have checked over my connections many times already and cannot figure out what's wrong. 
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 7:36 PM Post #6,839 of 12,335
It seems that the 5998 is everyone's preferred power tube, so I'll pick up one of those at some point. I'm curious about what people find to be the most realistic and natural sounding input tube, though? Other mods I plan on doing soon are replacing the output capacitors with Dayton polyproylene caps (2 x $24, not bad), and a stepped attenuator--any recommendations below $50? I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible.

I may have to place the order for the tubes soon since I think I might have busted my power tube when it rolled off the table onto the floor maybe 1.5 ft while installing Speedball. The amp is really quiet and the left channel barely comes through at all. It could also be an issue with the Speedball but I've double and triple checked all the connections and everything is in the right place.

 
Whoa I didn't realize Dayton sold film caps for that cheap. Did you go for the 250V 90UF ones or 100UF?
 
I used a Valab 23 step attenuator in my first build: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-100K-Log-Stereo-/251921318184?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa7ae4128
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 8:51 PM Post #6,840 of 12,335
   
Whoa I didn't realize Dayton sold film caps for that cheap. Did you go for the 250V 90UF ones or 100UF?
 
I used a Valab 23 step attenuator in my first build: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-100K-Log-Stereo-/251921318184?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa7ae4128

Still, this is a better cap, and is on sale for 25 dollars (the 100uf, 250V one):
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_claritycap_px.html
 

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