Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Oct 21, 2011 at 2:44 AM Post #841 of 12,347
For the hammertone, I've seen some guys recommend doing one heavy coat rather than multiple thin ones. Has anyone tried both methods?
 
Oct 21, 2011 at 11:56 AM Post #842 of 12,347
Yes, I have. What I am describing is to wait like 30 seconds between coats - the paint does not dry, but it gets a chance to level out - and you avoid getting runs or fisheyes. Shooting it all in one blast can create those problems
 
Oct 21, 2011 at 3:43 PM Post #843 of 12,347
thanks guys for all the help! will be ordering tonight, i don't think im going to be able to wait for my next paycheck
biggrin.gif

 
Oct 22, 2011 at 11:47 AM Post #845 of 12,347


Quote:
Hopefully will be ordering one of these in the near future for my DT990 600ohms.....can't wait!!!!! :)



 
Oh yes, for your 600 ohm beyers, order it ASAP!
 
Oct 22, 2011 at 4:06 PM Post #847 of 12,347
Sorry if this has been asked before, but how would the Crack sound with Grados? Does it work well with them?
 
Also, how hard is it to build? Is the wood finishing necessary or more of a customizing thing? I'm good at soldering wires and have had a bit of experience with soldering PCB's, but I'd still rather not mess up a $220 kit.
 
Thanks
 
Oct 22, 2011 at 4:38 PM Post #848 of 12,347


Quote:
Sorry if this has been asked before, but how would the Crack sound with Grados? Does it work well with them?
 
Also, how hard is it to build? Is the wood finishing necessary or more of a customizing thing? I'm good at soldering wires and have had a bit of experience with soldering PCB's, but I'd still rather not mess up a $220 kit.
 
Thanks


No, Grados are low impedance cans.......right?  The Crack is OTL so only works well with high impedance cans, >200 ohms per bottlehead.com.  It hums pretty bad and distorts with low impedance cans.
 
It is not hard to build.  Was the most complex electronics project I had done at the time, probably still is.  But the provided step by step instructions are excellent and easy to follow.  Mine worked great with no troubleshooting required.
 
 
Oct 22, 2011 at 6:06 PM Post #849 of 12,347
It has not been my experience that Crack hums and distorts with low impedance headphones. The biggest issue I have noticed is that the bass tends to be loose. At any rate the Smack amp and the S.E.X. amp will both work very well with Grados.
 
Oct 22, 2011 at 6:33 PM Post #850 of 12,347


Quote:
Sorry if this has been asked before, but how would the Crack sound with Grados? Does it work well with them?
 
Also, how hard is it to build? Is the wood finishing necessary or more of a customizing thing? I'm good at soldering wires and have had a bit of experience with soldering PCB's, but I'd still rather not mess up a $220 kit.
 
Thanks



They said that low impedance phones won't sound good but I plugged my SR80 and it sounded good to me.
 
 
 
Oct 22, 2011 at 7:14 PM Post #851 of 12,347


Quote:
Also, how hard is it to build? Is the wood finishing necessary or more of a customizing thing? I'm good at soldering wires and have had a bit of experience with soldering PCB's, but I'd still rather not mess up a $220 kit.
 

The instructions are quite comprehensive. The Crack was my first big project and I managed through it without too much trouble. I recommend cutting out all the wire lengths and stripping them ahead of time; it makes life a lot easier. 
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 4:06 AM Post #852 of 12,347
I'm in the process of registering on Bottlehead's site for the forum, but meanwhile, thought I'd pose the question here.
 
I have a low level audible hum on my Crack, in both channels, and it doesn't vary with the volume knob.  When I tap the side of the chassis, sometimes I can get it to go away, but most of the time it's there.  When I turn off the Crack using on/off switch, I hear some static and a semi-loud pop before it finally powers off.  I tried different tubes, so it's not the tubes.
 
Anyone have any ideas?  Can a cold solder joint can cause a hum like this?  Since it's on both channels and not dependent upon volume control, can I conclude it's somewhere early in the signal/power chain?
 
I just upgraded to Speedball tonight.  The hum was there before the upgrade, I was semi-hoping that the upgrade might cure the hum, but not so lucky.
 
I have to admit. . .and maybe this is where I start.  I never did voltage checks after the original build or upgrade.  I figured the whole thing was powered up already, the tubes were on, and I'd take a chance by plugging in a cheap pair of headphones and just seeing whether I get music rather than risk shocking myself silly.  

But maybe I'll have to do some voltage probing after all.  One thing I couldn't figure out how everyone else handles: When your tubes are in and you're probing voltages, do you prop up the amp at an angle so you have access to the underside without having the amp sitting tube side down?  Or have it sit upside down in the chassis and route the power cord from below?
 
Thanks for any help - I know this is technical support, but since this is a DIY and this is really bugging me (and while I'm waiting for my request to be approved on Bottlehead's forum), I'm hoping for some thoughts/suggestions in the meanwhile.   
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 4:15 AM Post #853 of 12,347
I would definitely run the voltage check. Also check for an offset from the headphone jack L/R to ground.
 
When I was testing mine, I just flipped it over and propped it up at an angle with whatever random object I had nearby.
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 5:46 AM Post #855 of 12,347
captouch
I think you are on the right track with a bad solder joint early in the chain. 
Just go back & reheat them. That amp doesn't have that many parts and shouldn't take long. 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top