Cowon PLENUE M2 (Current Firmware and Manual Links in 1st post)

[GoldenTooth]

Any comparison with Plenue R ? Which sounds better?

 

[Nayparm]

NEW FIRMWARE !

PLENUE M2 Firmware V1.40

- Additional handling of exceptional situation of metadata in track files.
- Improved FLAC file compatibility.
- Improved ALAC file compatibility.
- Improved DSF last frame playback.
- Fixed errors occurring when certain corrupted melon files are played.
- Added optical output ON/ OFF function. (Setting/ System/ Optical Output)

http://www.cowonglobal.com/zeroboard/zboard.php?id=C08&no=635

 

[pholcus1975]

Thank you!

 

[pholcus1975]

It seems to me that with new fw sound has changed a lot: a tad brighter and more revealing, less congested. I use to play 1hr every night , tonite is 1st session with fw 1.40. I should make A/B comparison.

 

[GoldenTooth]

Does this player have firmeware downgrade issues like plenue S ?

 

[jmills8]

Does this player have firmeware downgrade issues like plenue S ?

No ! Not the Down Grade Death ! You mean the FW changed how it sounded ?

 

[GoldenTooth]

My player didn't arrive yet i was just asking if it is safe to downgrade.
I have shanling M5s and fiio x7. I am eager to compare both with PM2 when it arrives.

 

[D0Hbert]

pholcus1975, yes, it seems you are correct. Sound is more revealing and open. Still testing how musicality / flow is affected. Details gets distracting after a while

 

[Casco]

Hello, I want to buy PM2 or P1 from amazon. But I can't decide which one to buy. What is the difference in sound quality? Can you help me? Thanks.

 

[jmills8]

Hello, I want to buy PM2 or P1 from amazon. But I can't decide which one to buy. What is the difference in sound quality? Can you help me? Thanks.

PM2 is newer.

 

[dsrk]

Inside the PM2:

I bought a PM2 here on headfi to see if I could replace the PCM1795 with a PCM1792A and possibly upgrade the opamps/caps. First look is promising regarding the DAC (see below) not much info available other than its pin and mode compatible.

Cowon use a modular DAC/AMP design (just not for the end users)

Very interesting is that they are using the Plenue 1 DAC/AMP board but with different Audio Hub, DAC and OPAMP. Also notice the system board is the same as the older Plenue M, so basically they made a new product out of 2 very good older ones and put it in a new case with a new name but for a lower price (lower R&D cost) win win for us.

P1
Audio Hub: WM8998 (incorrect? @Windows X)
DAC: PCM1792A
I/V LPF: OPA1612 x 2
Output/Buffer: OPA1612

P1 pic from fidilizer


PM2
Audio Hub: WM8804
DAC: PCM1795
I/V LPF: OPA1612 x2
Output/Buffer: AD8397

Hi Steve,
I dropped my M2 with AMP attached, it landed on 3.5 jack and broke the plastic socket inside. It's not holding the jack now.
Is it difficult disassemble M2? I don't have any idea if it can be repaired, any advice?

 

[Nayparm]

Noooooo, thats not got

Not sure how handy you are but to open:
Remove the 2 screws and use a suction cup gently at the screw end to lift it slightly by 1 to 2mm enough to get a plastic tool in (like a mobile phone opening one. Then work your way down each side with the tool to unclip the screen. The screen is attached to the board with 2 short ribbon cables, these both unclip. 4 screws to take the top board off and a further 3 on the bottom board. The bottom board has thermal putty applied which can be gently removed and replaced afterwards.

Be very carefull when opening the screen ribbon connectors. The small blue one lifts from the back. The larger brown one from the front. The brown one is the most delicate at closing also. Its also possible ro remove all the screws without removing the ribon cables by gently rotating the screen enough to reveal the screws. Also don't forget to remove the battery connector as early on as possible. This is achieved easiest by removing the battery with a hairdryer first, before removing any boards.

The exact connector you need looks like this, I removed one from a dead boared I use for spares to send to a headfier in singapore. The 3 connectors at the back are for optical, if you dont use optical it will be easier to find a replacement socket and lose the optical.



Picture of those ribbon conectors:

 

[Nayparm]

Under the 3.5mm socket. Points to desolder.




Overview pic once the screen is removed

 

[dsrk]

Noooooo, thats not got

Not sure how handy you are but to open:
Remove the 2 screws and use a suction cup gently at the screw end to lift it slightly by 1 to 2mm enough to get a plastic tool in (like a mobile phone opening one. Then work your way down each side with the tool to unclip the screen. The screen is attached to the board with 2 short ribbon cables, these both unclip. 4 screws to take the top board off and a further 3 on the bottom board. The bottom board has thermal putty applied which can be gently removed and replaced afterwards.

Be very carefull when opening the screen ribbon connectors. The small blue one lifts from the back. The larger brown one from the front. The brown one is the most delicate at closing also. Its also possible ro remove all the screws without removing the ribon cables by gently rotating the screen enough to reveal the screws. Also don't forget to remove the battery connector as early on as possible. This is achieved easiest by removing the battery with a hairdryer first, before removing any boards.

The exact connector you need looks like this, I removed one from a dead boared I use for spares to send to a headfier in singapore. The 3 connectors at the back are for optical, if you dont use optical it will be easier to find a replacement socket and lose the optical.



Picture of those ribbon conectors:

Under the 3.5mm socket. Points to desolder.




Overview pic once the screen is removed

Thanks a lot for the detailed instructions.
I disassembled my S9 once but it was a long time ago. I never done micro soldering work, I will need to find the socket that can fit first.

 

[jmills8]

Thanks a lot for the detailed instructions.
I disassembled my S9 once but it was a long time ago. I never done micro soldering work, I will need to find the socket that can fit first.

Nayparm might be able to repair it for you for at a low cost.