[tomwoo]

I thought the LED in one of my volume balls died. But it was actually because of the low volume setting. Totally forgot about that.

 

[dakanao]

Here's something most Mojo owners don't know, but there's actually a noticable sound quality difference between the two 3.5mm headphone ports.

The left one has a lower impedance, and sounds slightly more detailed, with better bass slam and dynamics, but it sounds more edgy, less smooth on the impact of sounds.

The 3.5mm port to the right, has less bass slam, and slightly less detail and dynamic contrast, but sounds smoother. I prefer the right port, since it's bass slam and dynamics still is excellent, but the smoother less edgy sound wins me over.

This difference was consistent with a 16 ohm JVC-S400, 250 ohm Beyerdynamic DT150 and 250, and a 300 ohm Sennheiser HD650

I asked Rob Watts about this a while back, and he said that the right port has a slightly higher ohm due to a longer PCB trace.

 

[JanisR]

For some time now, I've been having problems with my Mojo:
- It sometimes switches off by itself, which does not seem to be related to its workload - it can happen with my computer switched off and no USB signal (I know I should have switched the Mojo off when the computer is off);
- Most times, but not always, it makes rapid ticking noise right after switched on - that ticking noise is audible both in the headphones as well as coming right from the device itself.

These problems started a few months ago. Before that, the device had worked flawlessly for a few years. I have noticed no deterioration in sound quality. I am still using the same PSU as when I bought the device - a Belkin USB charger, rated at 5V, 2.1A and the PSU seems to work fine.

The battery is dead as a dodo - the moment I unplug the USB power cable, the device goes out. I don't want to pay for battery replacement, because it is expensive and there is no guarantee it will fix the problem.

Lately, I have been operating my Mojo in the Line Level mode (press both volume buttons upon switching the device on) and that has had no impact on the issues mentioned above - it still makes weird noises upon turning it on, and occasionally turns itself off. Also, ambient temperature does not seem to have an impact on it.

 

[miketlse]

For some time now, I've been having problems with my Mojo:
- It sometimes switches off by itself, which does not seem to be related to its workload - it can happen with my computer switched off and no USB signal (I know I should have switched the Mojo off when the computer is off);
- Most times, but not always, it makes rapid ticking noise right after switched on - that ticking noise is audible both in the headphones as well as coming right from the device itself.

These problems started a few months ago. Before that, the device had worked flawlessly for a few years. I have noticed no deterioration in sound quality. I am still using the same PSU as when I bought the device - a Belkin USB charger, rated at 5V, 2.1A and the PSU seems to work fine.

The battery is dead as a dodo - the moment I unplug the USB power cable, the device goes out. I don't want to pay for battery replacement, because it is expensive and there is no guarantee it will fix the problem.

Lately, I have been operating my Mojo in the Line Level mode (press both volume buttons upon switching the device on) and that has had no impact on the issues mentioned above - it still makes weird noises upon turning it on, and occasionally turns itself off. Also, ambient temperature does not seem to have an impact on it.

If your battery is as dead as that, then you need to open the Mojo case, and visibly inspect the battery.
If it is swollen, then you should remove the battery immediately (and place in a safe place), because it represents a fire risk.

If instead the battery looks normal, then maybe you have an issue with the charging circuit.

Either way you should email support@chordelectronics.co.uk, and ask their advice.

 

[jarnopp]

For some time now, I've been having problems with my Mojo:
- It sometimes switches off by itself, which does not seem to be related to its workload - it can happen with my computer switched off and no USB signal (I know I should have switched the Mojo off when the computer is off);
- Most times, but not always, it makes rapid ticking noise right after switched on - that ticking noise is audible both in the headphones as well as coming right from the device itself.

These problems started a few months ago. Before that, the device had worked flawlessly for a few years. I have noticed no deterioration in sound quality. I am still using the same PSU as when I bought the device - a Belkin USB charger, rated at 5V, 2.1A and the PSU seems to work fine.

The battery is dead as a dodo - the moment I unplug the USB power cable, the device goes out. I don't want to pay for battery replacement, because it is expensive and there is no guarantee it will fix the problem.

Lately, I have been operating my Mojo in the Line Level mode (press both volume buttons upon switching the device on) and that has had no impact on the issues mentioned above - it still makes weird noises upon turning it on, and occasionally turns itself off. Also, ambient temperature does not seem to have an impact on it.

 

[vlach]

Here's something most Mojo owners don't know, but there's actually a noticable sound quality difference between the two 3.5mm headphone ports.

The left one has a lower impedance, and sounds slightly more detailed, with better bass slam and dynamics, but it sounds more edgy, less smooth on the impact of sounds.

The 3.5mm port to the right, has less bass slam, and slightly less detail and dynamic contrast, but sounds smoother. I prefer the right port, since it's bass slam and dynamics still is excellent, but the smoother less edgy sound wins me over.

This difference was consistent with a 16 ohm JVC-S400, 250 ohm Beyerdynamic DT150 and 250, and a 300 ohm Sennheiser HD650

I asked Rob Watts about this a while back, and he said that the right port has a slightly higher ohm due to a longer PCB trace.

You are so right, i did not know this, thank you!
I can confirm the left side is definitely more vivid with more impact and better dynamics while the right side definitely has softer bass.
It turns out i was using the right side to drive my ALO CDM, which already softens things somewhat by virtue of its nature and switching to the left side clearly improved things for me.
I was already very happy with the Mojo and i can't believe I'm getting even more performance out of it!
Thanks again for sharing!

 

[pumin]

Anybody compared Mojo and Dethonray DTR1 on sound?
On Erji i finding - R3 + Mojo - worst then DTR1, Iphone 5S + Mojo - much better than DTR1.
What you think?
Special interesting on stage, bass and dynamics.
TY.

For Iphone 5S + Mojo , if I'm correct, IOS doesn't support exclusive mode for external DAC. (Like in android/UAPP, or Windows) , so there's no way to get bit-perfect on iphone/ipad + mojo. (please correct me if i'm wrong)

 

[GreenBow]

I have found an absolute bargain priced CD-quality triple-album on Qobuz for £8.99.

The Music of Hans Zimmer: The Definitive Collection.

If you have an Amazon Prime subscription or Qobuz then you can listen to it first. However I say just buy it, then listen to it. (Well at least before they realise they are giving it away.)

 

[CJG888]

I’ve just switched from an electrical (co-ax) Connection between my X-10Tii and the Mojo to a glass Toslink cable from Lifatec. It does make quite a difference. There is a marginal loss of “sharpness”, but a quieter, “blacker” background. The soundstage also seems a little wider. I was sceptical at first, having learned back in the 80s that “all optical digital connections are rubbish and to be avoided at all costs”. It does seem, however, that the quality of the optical interfaces has improved over the years. Oh, and the Lifatec is able to pass a DSD signal. I didn’t think that was supposed to be possible!

 

[GreenBow]

I was always told from reading this thread and others, that optical is the definitive.

Some will say they prefer USB if the USB power rails are clean. Plus Chord drivers resend for data if there is an error on USB. I use USB because it's easier to manange via PC; (long story).

With Mojo you would need a Jitterbug or other USB cleaning gadgets. Once I have Jitterbug I struggled to hear any difference between optical and USB.

 

[pumin]

I’ve just switched from an electrical (co-ax) Connection between my X-10Tii and the Mojo to a glass Toslink cable from Lifatec. It does make quite a difference. There is a marginal loss of “sharpness”, but a quieter, “blacker” background. The soundstage also seems a little wider. I was sceptical at first, having learned back in the 80s that “all optical digital connections are rubbish and to be avoided at all costs”. It does seem, however, that the quality of the optical interfaces has improved over the years. Oh, and the Lifatec is able to pass a DSD signal. I didn’t think that was supposed to be possible!

Thanks for info. Wonder if provided optical cable is able to pass dsd signal and if it's audible difference from Lifatec.

 

[CJG888]

I’ve also found myself going back to my good old HD-25s....

 

[CaptainFantastic]

Short, new presentation video. Looks like the sticker on the back of the unit has become much bigger. I wonder what additional info it contains. Looks like a lot of extra text.

 

[jarnopp]

.

 

[Sound Eq]

greetings

I fully discharged my mojo, then recharged it fully

Then i connected it to my laptop and used Jriver and played 1 flac song repeatedly using my iem, I got about 5 hours 15 minutes continuous playback time.

Can anyone tell me if that is an ok battery life for a mojo that is about 2 years old. And how it compares to a new unit. I want to know as I am planning to sell my mojo, and I like the buyer to know if my mojo is behaving as it should be