[x RELIC x]

I was advised it would be safe. Didn't realize it would run the risk of damaging anything...Would a female trrs to a male trs 3.5 adapter work?
I keep forgetting which is not allowed: I thought plugging unbalanced trs jack to a balanced trrs was the fatal one but not the other way around..
Thanks for the quick reply btw

Driving SE headphones from a balanced output is bad. Driving balanced headphones from a SE output, with the appropriate adaptor, is fine. That said, without the adaptor to run TRRS to a TRS output there may be risks given there is no common ground on a TRRS balanced plug. TRRS will be something like L+, R+, L-, R- (depending on the manufacturer) and TRS will be L+, R-, common Ground.

Edit: Be aware that there really is no standard for TRRS connections. Astell & Kern uses R-, R+, L+, L- for their 2.5mm balanced output. You need to be aware of what configuration your TRRS plug has for the adaptor to work properly.

 

[steffi]

What is allowed when it comes to affixing something to the bottom of the Mojo?
 
I want to stick some Scotch Fasters but the only place it makes sense it where it will cover the serial number.
 
For those people who went the Velco or similar route where did you stick it on the Mojo?

 

[x RELIC x]

What is allowed when it comes to affixing something to the bottom of the Mojo?

I want to stick some Scotch Fasters but the only place it makes sense it where it will cover the serial number.

For those people who went the Velco or similar route where did you stick it on the Mojo?

On the top, that way I use the feet on the Mojo and the volume and power button aren't pressed accidentally. Lots of examples in this thread's gallery of how people stack their Mojo, like this one of mine.

 

[warrior1975]

I can fully understand using a high end dap as a standalone product, but can't understand using one with a separate DAC.

99% of the public wouldn't understand me using a separate DAC either, so I suppose people can spend their money on whatever they like!

I don't think many are buying a high end dap to use with the Mojo. I think some people already had a high end dap, and added a mojo. I have yet to see someone buy a mojo, then say let me purchase an ak380 to use as a transport. Not that that isn't a possibility.

 

[x RELIC x]

I did purchase the above (former high end) DAP specifically for the Mojo given its size and storage capacity. Then again, I only paid $200 for it brand new.

 

[WCDchee]

For anyone looking for a great transport for the mojo, (yes I know this is controversial, but this is just target for those who wana give it a shot ), try out the soundaware esther M1, or better still the m1pro with femto clocks, them femtos really make a surprising difference!

They're not ridiculously expensive and unstacked are among the best players atm IMO

Of course you have to get past the butt ugly looks

 

[Hawaiibadboy]

On the top, that way I use the feet on the Mojo and the volume and power button aren't pressed accidentally. Lots of examples in this thread's gallery of how people stack their Mojo, like this one of mine.

 
Leather seems to be popular

 

[x RELIC x]

For anyone looking for a great transport for the mojo, (yes I know this is controversial, but this is just target for those who wana give it a shot ), try out the soundaware esther M1, or better still the m1pro with femto clocks, them femtos really make a surprising difference!

They're not ridiculously expensive and unstacked are among the best players atm IMO

Of course you have to get past the butt ugly looks

The Femto clocks should have zero effect with the Mojo where jitter is concerned according to Rob.

From earlier in the thread, and can be found in the third post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Watts View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyyyeman View Post

Clock jitter -- What is clock jitter? The reason I ask is that in considering different DAPs to use as transports to output a digital signal to the Mojo, I've seen some varying specs for clock jitter on different DAPs, as follows:

AK100 90 ps (pico seconds)
AK120 50 "
AK240 50 "

Question: Does clock jitter degrade the digital signal before it's send out from the DAP? Or are they referring to clock jitter of the internal dac, in which case clock jitter doesn't matter since the signal never reaches the dac (it's been output beforehand)?

If clock jitter degrades the signal before it's sent out, then it appears that the AK100 is not as good a transport as the other two. But would the difference be discernible?

Thx

Clock jitter is timing uncertainty (or inaccuracy) on the main clock that is feeding the digital outputs. Its often expressed as cycle to cycle jitter as an RMS figure, but can be total jitter which includes low frequency jitter too. Total jitter is the most important specification. If you want here is a good definition:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jitter

As you can see, the jitter subject can get complicated and its often abused by marketing...

But with all of my DAC's you do not need to worry at all about source jitter, so all of the above AK numbers are fine. So long as its below 2uS (that is 2,000,000 pS) you are OK, and nobody has jitter that bad!

Rob

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Watts View Post

The reasons why sources and digital interconnects sound different are well understood - see some of my posts. In a nutshell it is not jitter (all my DACs are completely immune to source jitter) but down to RF noise and distorted currents from the source flowing into the DAC's ground plane. The RF noise inter-modulates with the analogue electronics, creating random noise as a by product, which creates noise floor modulation, and that makes it sound brighter or harder. The correlated or distorted currents very subtly add or subtract to small signals, thus changing the fundamental linearity, which in turn mucks up depth perception.

But I also agree in that lots of people hear changes that are not there - I for one have never heard any difference with optical cables (assuming all are bit perfect) with my DAC's, but lots of folks claim big differences. Placebo, or listening with your wallet, plays a part here. Then there are cases of people preferring more distortion... Listening tests must be done in a very controlled and careful fashion, particularly if you are trying to design and develop things.

Rob

 

[warrior1975]

I can't get the M1 to work with Mojo. I tried regular 3.5mm and digital coax from Moon Audio (X7) cable. I thought they'd be a great stack as well, and the sound alone without mojo is amazing.

 

[howdy]

deciding between iBasso DX200 or Cayin N5 with MoJo

 

[x RELIC x]

I can't get the M1 to work with Mojo. I tried regular 3.5mm and digital coax from Moon Audio (X7) cable. I thought they'd be a great stack as well, and the sound alone without mojo is amazing.

Does the M1 have a TRRS coaxial output (shared line-out and coaxial out)? I don't think so, so the signal on the Sleeve of the X7 does not line up with the signal on the Tip of the M1, ergo, no signal.

 

[WCDchee]

I can't get the M1 to work with Mojo. I tried regular 3.5mm and digital coax from Moon Audio (X7) cable. I thought they'd be a great stack as well, and the sound alone without mojo is amazing.

Check out my suggestion in the Esther thread, try either of those cables again, except that for the end plugged into the Esther, plug it in with various insertion depths, with the regular 3.5 plugging it in halfway works as I do it sometimes. With the other cable I'm not so sure but the mook audio is a dedicated coax and likely to work better.

 

[x RELIC x]

Check out my suggestion in the Esther thread, try either of those cables again, except that for the end plugged into the Esther, plug it in with various insertion depths, with the regular 3.5 plugging it in halfway works as I do it sometimes. With the other cable I'm not so sure but the mook audio is a dedicated coax and likely to work better.

That won't work because the ground and signal order is reversed from the X7 pin configuration.

On the X7, and therefore the plug on the cable, the ground is before the signal on Ring2 and the signal is on the Sleeve. The M1 needs the signal on the Tip and the Ground on the Sleeve (which is standard for a mono TS plug for coaxial). FiiO really screwed the pooch by combining the coaxial with the line out.

Try a regular stereo interconnect to at least hear it. You may get reflections in the cable (not being 75 Ohm standard) but at least you'll hear something. Using the short length of a short 4" 3.5mm stereo interconnect the adverse affects of not using a 75 Ohm coaxial shielded cable should be minimal, if any.

 

[WCDchee]

The Femto clocks should have zero effect with the Mojo where jitter is concerned according to Rob.

From earlier in the thread, and can be found in the third post:

I understand, and that's why I didn't quite believe what I was hearing, I went into the blind test expecting to find out that transport mattering was just ********. Imagine how stunned I was to hear the difference.

Even between the two versions of the m1, the sound is different as a transport. I know it's hard to believe especially when rob himself has said that it shouldn't matter, but you got to try it out to understand what I'm hearing.

If you check out the Esther thread, Currawong has tried it too and he said that the difference between the ak100 and the Esther m1 as a transport is significant.

Make of that what you will, but I urge you to give it a shot, if you have access to the AK players Try the ak380 vs the ak100 or something and see if you can hear a difference. The 380 is a pretty good transport to my ears, not as good as th Esther but definitely among the better ones. Do give it a shot and let me know how it goes

In fact, I will go as far as to say that when using the mojo with th FiiO x5, I wasn't too impressed. Sure it was good but it didn't blow me away. But having tried the mojo with the Esther m1pro, man I'm telling you it's no joke, it's incredible, truly incredible.

Give it a shot! If anything, it's just another learning experience for you too if you don't hear any difference at the end of the day so be it, but if you do then I'm Glad you hear it too!

 

[x RELIC x]

I understand, and that's why I didn't quite believe what I was hearing, I went into the blind test expecting to find out that transport mattering was just ********. Imagine how stunned I was to hear the difference.

Even between the two versions of the m1, the sound is different as a transport. I know it's hard to believe especially when rob himself has said that it shouldn't matter, but you got to try it out to understand what I'm hearing.

If you check out the Esther thread, Currawong has tried it too and he said that the difference between the ak100 and the Esther m1 as a transport is significant.

Make of that what you will, but I urge you to give it a shot, if you have access to the AK players Try the ak380 vs the ak100 or something and see if you can hear a difference. The 380 is a pretty good transport to my ears, not as good as th Esther but definitely among the better ones. Do give it a shot and let me know how it goes

Actually, I'm not saying there is no difference between sources. I'm saying it isn't the Femto clocks.

I didn't want to report it but I hear a clear difference using the AK100 mk2 and the AK240 as a source.