[joeexp]

  Hi Joeexp
 
Im currently using it with amarra 3.0 and it does sound very good . I have a Naim CDS3 and although the naim still sounds better the little Hugo is 90% there. Im currently using the hd usb cable , but have been informed that the toslink may be a better choice ?
Although presently i am using Mac i find the Auralic Aries intriguing 
 
Again many thanks for your valuable info 
 
Cheers

 
Hi there again: Sounds like nice system you have there already Naim CDS3 (XPS2?)
I have tried different options with the Hugo to find a way to improve the SQ.
There are people here claiming that USB sounds best or there are others that claim TOSlink sounds smoother...
But in my experience (and others) the S/PDIF input sounds best.
That however requires to introduce an USB to S/PDIF converter.
The problem I guess is the amount of "RF Noise" and jitter the a computer introduces to the system.
Rob Watts (Designer of the Hugo) in one of his posts says that jitter is being dealt with sufficiently - so perhaps it's just the noise ...
 
Out of the many USB to S/PDIF converters out there, I have been using the Audiophilleo 2.
However there a many ways to provide clean power for the otherwise USB-powered Audiophilleo which sits bewteen the Computer and the Hugo. (http://www.audiophilleo.com/)
BTW Naim has licensed Audiophilleo technology for their DACS
 
1)  Audiophilleo Pure Power
2) ifi iUSBPower
3) Linear USB Power Suppler like Teddy Pardo USB
 
So seems like the improvement of SQ is achieved upstream!
Also don't forget to burn in the Hugo (or the Hugo to burn in you LOL)

 

[bpcans]

Hi Joeexp

Im currently using it with amarra 3.0 and it does sound very good . I have a Naim CDS3 and although the naim still sounds better the little Hugo is 90% there. Im currently using the hd usb cable , but have been informed that the toslink may be a better choice ?
Although presently i am using Mac i find the Auralic Aries intriguing 

Again many thanks for your valuable info 

Cheers

Amarra sounds great but JRiver for Mac OS X is easier to navigate and better for FLAC files IMO. Just my $0.02.

 

[chumpy20]

I have oppo BDP-105 and Chord Hugo. 
How can I use both? (preferably any output of the Oppo to the chord?)  
Cant figure it out
 
thanks
Mike

 

[CosmicHolyGhost]

I have oppo BDP-105 and Chord Hugo. 
How can I use both? (preferably any output of the Oppo to the chord?)  
Cant figure it out

thanks
Mike

I think that oppo model has both coaxial and optical digital audio output. You can use either to connect to Hugo corresponding input then use RCA connect back to the amplifier. It will bypass the oppo DAC

 

[isquirrel]

   
Hi there again: Sounds like nice system you have there already Naim CDS3 (XPS2?)
I have tried different options with the Hugo to find a way to improve the SQ.
There are people here claiming that USB sounds best. But in my experience ()and others) the S/PDIF input sounds better.
That however requires to introduce an USB to S/PDIF converter.
The problem I guess is the amount of "RF Noise" and jitter the a computer introduces to the system.
Rob Watts (Designer of the Hugo) in one of his posts says that jitter is being dealt with sufficiently - so perhaps it's just the noise ...
 
Out of the many USB to S/PDIF converters out there, I have been using the Audiophilleo 2.
However there a many ways to provide clean power for the otherwise USB-powered Audiophilleo which sits bewteen the Computer and the Hugo. (http://www.audiophilleo.com/)
BTW Naim has licensed Audiophilleo technology for their DACS
 
1)  Audiophilleo Pure Power
2) ifi iUSBPower
3) Linear USB Power Suppler like Teddy Pardo USB
 
So seems like the improvement of SQ is achieved upstream!

I second that, reflects my findings 100%, I went with the AP1 SE so I could get DSD128 over Dop

 

[chumpy20]

Thats what i initially thought, however,  both optical and coax are input. Only outputs are the two HDMI's and headphone out. I suppose I could DIY a 1/4 " to mini usb , but I don't know if thats going to work.  ugh ... thanks for the help though 

 

[CosmicHolyGhost]

Thats what i initially thought, however,  both optical and coax are input. Only outputs are the two HDMI's and headphone out. I suppose I could DIY a 1/4 " to mini usb , but I don't know if thats going to work.  ugh ... thanks for the help though 

You may need an hdmi audio splitter that has a toslink or coax output...but i never try and dont know the quality...sorry couldnt be much help.

 

[Pepsican]

  Hi Joeexp
 
Im currently using it with amarra 3.0 and it does sound very good . I have a Naim CDS3 and although the naim still sounds better the little Hugo is 90% there. Im currently using the hd usb cable , but have been informed that the toslink may be a better choice ?
Although presently i am using Mac i find the Auralic Aries intriguing 
 
Again many thanks for your valuable info 
 
Cheers

I wouldn't say better, but rather different. Toslink and USB each have their own set of different types of distortions they are sensitive to.
 
For USB:
- the line has a current running over it that comes from your computer's switching power supply. *Very* noisy and even the best galvanic insulation will not keep all of it out
- USB cables were never specified with a clear minimum length in mind and USB cables typically have no insulation. Anything longer than a meter that is not a dedicated Audio USB cable will probably introduce jitter into the signal path
 
For Toslink:
- the signal path comes through your soundcard. Interference and noise are your part
 
If you really want to go perfect, the best measures you can take are:
- eliminate switching power supplies. That is not easy with standard PCs, but custom build audio PCs can be fed with a lineair supply which has much lower distortion. The idea is also to eliminate it is early as possible and then prevent new noise from being introduced down the line. So, don't think that doing something just before the signal enters hugo is enough.
- shorten the signal path inside the PC. Both Toslink and USB sit on the Intel "South Bridge" part of the mother board. But PCIe sits on the "North Bridge" next to RAM and CPU. So, instead of using the standard ports on the computer, use a dedicated PCIe soundcard or USB card. This shortens the signal path and also deals with many of the typical distortions. For example, PCIe USB cards from JCAT, Paul Pang or SOtM won't take noisy power from the motherboard but can be fed by a dedicated low noise lineair power supply. Dedicated sound cards from Asus and Creative have much lower signal-to-noise ratios and have specific insulation measure so jitter is not introduced into the signal.
- Checking out your cables may impact things as well. With regards to USB, I would say to keep them as short as possible. If you don't want to spend on a dedicated audio USB cable, at least try and source a reasonably well made branded cable (Belkin for example) and don't go for the cheapest of the cheapest.
 
But everything comes at a price.

 

[fire2368]

Just wondering, has anyone compared the Gustard U10 with the AP1 PP? I bought myself a AP1 PP yesterday and I struggle to find much of an improvement from the U10. I don't know what I'm expecting here but the AP1 is 10x in value, but the U10 is XMOS based. 
 
I also had issues with the AP1 connecting with my USB3.0 port, which is why I'm probably returning it.
 
I might try the Audio GD DI-2014.

 

[joeexp]

  Just wondering, has anyone compared the Gustard U10 with the AP1 PP? I bought myself a AP1 PP yesterday and I struggle to find much of an improvement from the U10. I don't know what I'm expecting here but the AP1 is 10x in value, but the U10 is XMOS based. 
 
I also had issues with the AP1 connecting with my USB3.0 port, which is why I'm probably returning it.
 
I might try the Audio GD DI-2014.

 
I have not had a chance to try the Gustard U10 as yet. Perhaps it is as good as you say. Even better considering the amount of money saved.
There is an interesting shoot-out of USB to SPDIF Converters on computeraudiophile.com where they test 15 different ones.
Unfortunately the one you mentioned is not included.
First is the Berkeley Audio Design Alpha USB  -  but rather expensive ...
However I don't have the means nor the time to test all of those out there and the AP seems to be a good compromise. Or perhaps even the Gustard U10  - whatever floats your boat!

 

[fire2368]

@joeexp I was looking at that Berkeley Audio USB, apparently its really good. I can't even try it in store because apparently it is really hard to get a hold of!

 

[Currawong]

  Thats what i initially thought, however,  both optical and coax are input. Only outputs are the two HDMI's and headphone out. I suppose I could DIY a 1/4 " to mini usb , but I don't know if thats going to work.  ugh ... thanks for the help though 

 
There is a coax and optical output labelled "DIAG" on the back next to the HDMI outputs. The coax will require a 75 Ohm cable and the optical a Toslink optical cable.

 

[joeexp]

Or perhaps even the Schiit WYRD USB Decrapifier for $99 will do??
http://schiit.com/products/wyrd-usb-decrapifier
 
 

 

[Pepsican]

  Or perhaps even the Schiit WYRD USB Decrapifier for $99 will do??
http://schiit.com/products/wyrd-usb-decrapifier
 
 

It will help, but it won't clean up everything. Not upstream enough to have a really big impact. For truly great gains, you need to do something about the PC itself, before the signal comes out of the USB port.

 

[chumpy20]

thanks Ill check that out!