Use remote most of the time to minimise mechanical stress????
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Chord Electronics - Hugo 2 - The Official Thread
- Thread starter ChordElectronics
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Use remote most of the time to minimise mechanical stress????
No
Always, to be honest. But the main reason is that I can hear it turn on, shaking USB hands with my computer, instantly. Wherein, I need to hold that button for two seconds before hearing it start.Use remote most of the time to minimise mechanical stress????
Hooster
Headphoneus Supremus
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So I went to turn my Hugo2 on today and it did not turn on (at all), so I have not experienced this before so I figured maybe it was just a very flat battery, so put the charger in, light goes blue. Come back an hour later and try to turn it on, still no luck. On closer inspection I see that the on button is no longer going down when I press it and making the little click noise like the other 3 buttons and it is in a permanently depressed position. I suspect that the button's mechanism is broken (which sucks), so before I pursue getting it fixed (it is out of warranty), has anyone here experienced this and/or have any ideas on how to resolve it?
Did you by any chance spill some Coke onto it? I am sure your dealer will be delighted to replace your button.
GreenBow
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Please is anyone a JRiver expert.
I have managed to get my JRiver MC 23 into starting up in 'Database Read Only' mode. Meaning any changes like track deletions are not permanent.
I think it was caused by closing it down with Task manager. (What happened was I closed down JRiver normally and then started it again, but it said it was already running. I used task manager to close the JRiver process, but it didn't seem to work. Never does in Win10, but did perfectly in Win 7.)
Anyway, now every time I boot up JRiver I get the warning of it being in read only mode.
I have googled but there is really not much. Some say remove a tiny file it creates to initiate read-only. However the file is not there for me in my files. Looking again in task manager shows nothing. I have scoured through the JRiver settings. I think maybe the best idea is re-install and don't save settings. (Knowing my luck it will save that though.) Would rather not re-install though since I have done a bit of work with tags etc.
I have managed to get my JRiver MC 23 into starting up in 'Database Read Only' mode. Meaning any changes like track deletions are not permanent.
I think it was caused by closing it down with Task manager. (What happened was I closed down JRiver normally and then started it again, but it said it was already running. I used task manager to close the JRiver process, but it didn't seem to work. Never does in Win10, but did perfectly in Win 7.)
Anyway, now every time I boot up JRiver I get the warning of it being in read only mode.
I have googled but there is really not much. Some say remove a tiny file it creates to initiate read-only. However the file is not there for me in my files. Looking again in task manager shows nothing. I have scoured through the JRiver settings. I think maybe the best idea is re-install and don't save settings. (Knowing my luck it will save that though.) Would rather not re-install though since I have done a bit of work with tags etc.
GreenBow
Headphoneus Supremus
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Please is anyone a JRiver expert.
I have managed to get my JRiver MC 23 into starting up in 'Database Read Only' mode. Meaning any changes like track deletions are not permanent.
I think it was caused by closing it down with Task manager. (What happened was I closed down JRiver normally and then started it again, but it said it was already running. I used task manager to close the JRiver process, but it didn't seem to work. Never does in Win10, but did perfectly in Win 7.)
Anyway, now every time I boot up JRiver I get the warning of it being in read only mode.
I have googled but there is really not much. Some say remove a tiny file it creates to initiate read-only. However the file is not there for me in my files. Looking again in task manager shows nothing. I have scoured through the JRiver settings. I think maybe the best idea is re-install and don't save settings. (Knowing my luck it will save that though.) Would rather not re-install though since I have done a bit of work with tags etc.
Fixed it sorry. Had to find a file called, lock.jmd, and remove it. … That was the advice given online but it was in a different location in Win 10. Found the location by routing through JRiver's settings again.
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Good news.
nogi replicant
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Interestingly enough, mine doesn't make that solid click either when depressed. It does, however, still turn on. Isn't there some sort of switch that might begin to wear out?
So I did as Rob suggested and got a tiny allen key and opened the H2 up. Firstly I tried to just open the side of the balls up enough to see if the on/off ball would re engage with a clicking motion (hooing it was just a piece of dust stuck in there somewhere) but it didn't so I decided to open the whole thing up. Interestingly when I did that I observed that the balls simply sit freely within the top and the bottom so they all moved all over the place. Pretty cool design though. so under each of the balls is a little round cone shaped piece of metal that when you press it it makes the clicking noise and presses on the pad below it to activate the function. The round cone shaped piece under the on/off ball was not there though. I do not know anything about electronics however I expect that each of these circular metal cone pieces is delicately welded onto the motherboard. So from wear, or whatever reason it had come off. I fortunately did locate the tiny little metal cone piece sitting randomly somewhere else on the motherboard though. I delicately picked it up and placed it over the pad for the on off button and pressed the top of it and the H2 turned on - She's ALIVE!!!.
So I did a very dodgy fix job by using sticky tape to put it in the correct place, placing the balls where they needed to go, and then screwing the top and bottom of the H2 up. It all works now (clicking noise and all). I expect that it could probably be solded back into place by someone with the appropriate tools and skills - but that is not me. Will be interesting to see how long the sticky tape solution lasts. My device is out of warranty hence the MacGyver in opening it up and trying to fix it with sticky tape. I am disappointed that a device of this price has experienced this issue from what I would call fairly typical and regular use over the course of two years or so. But I was happy I could revive some life back into it.
As a lucky owner of a DAVE and M Scaler I am still a huge Chord fan regardless.
I'm sure chord would repair that for you but how much it would cost I don't know.
nogi replicant
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Yeah I expect they could but I live in Australia so sending it back to the UK is a bit of a pain and a cost and then the fix cost on top of that. Will see how long the sticky tape lasts, but if I ever decide to sell it I will need to send it back to get fixed though first. I have had it for over a year though and it is such a great device I don't see myself selling it, I take it and the M Scaler to the office most days, DAVE and M Scaler for home use.
GreenBow
Headphoneus Supremus
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You know how some folk are addicted to audio gear. Must have the best etc. I am OK with something reasonable, e.g. I don't feel a rush to partner my Chords with better kit. Even though my partnering kit isn't up to Chord level. .. However I think I may be addicted to Chord, haha!
greenkiwi
1000+ Head-Fier
Seems like you might just need a second m scaler for the office.Yeah I expect they could but I live in Australia so sending it back to the UK is a bit of a pain and a cost and then the fix cost on top of that. Will see how long the sticky tape lasts, but if I ever decide to sell it I will need to send it back to get fixed though first. I have had it for over a year though and it is such a great device I don't see myself selling it, I take it and the M Scaler to the office most days, DAVE and M Scaler for home use.
flyte3333
Previously known as Em2016
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Hi @Rob Watts
Regarding this measurement here, specifically headphone output distortion measurement:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...hord-hugo-2-dac-and-headphone-amplifier.2349/
What are your thoughts on the below findings and comments? Does anything surprise you?
It seems the planars have lower distortion in the bass, than the dynamic driver headphones? The worst performing (highest distortion) being the Focals.
Regarding this measurement here, specifically headphone output distortion measurement:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...hord-hugo-2-dac-and-headphone-amplifier.2349/
What are your thoughts on the below findings and comments? Does anything surprise you?
It seems the planars have lower distortion in the bass, than the dynamic driver headphones? The worst performing (highest distortion) being the Focals.
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nogi replicant
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That is a great idea, why didn’t I think of that.Seems like you might just need a second m scaler for the office.
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Any sign of the 2Go yet - been waiting for that for a very very long time...
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