[adrianm]

Yes, that was the idea. I generally liked the Zen MK3 but I had it hooked up the the M Scaler while the Selekt was getting fixed. This is a cheaper model that’s a fraction of the cost and size. The latter is a plus. I thought it would sound better than a laptop running Audirvana or a router acting as a source. Contrary to expectations, it sounds worse for some reason.

I think that when buffering comes into play there's really no explanation on why a different server would sound better than another. I'm sure others disagree though. Even Stereophile found no discernible difference.

 

[VladYR]

I think that when buffering comes into play there's really no explanation on why a different server would sound better than another. I'm sure others disagree though. Even Stereophile found no discernible difference.

It’s not really a big deal. At this point there’s not a whole lot to tweak and improve. I might just start saving up for an Ultima 6 amp and a pair of Kef Blade 2 speakers or something similar.

 

[Jawed]

It’s not really a big deal. At this point there’s not a whole lot to tweak and improve. I might just start saving up for an Ultima 6 amp and a pair of Kef Blade 2 speakers or something similar.

Maybe Blade Meta or something more radical is coming soon from KEF, as the 60th anniversary celebrations kick in to gear.

Worth serious consideration:

• Magico S3
• Vimberg Tonda
• Vivid Giya G3
• YG Acoustics Vantage

American speakers are going to be much more "value for money" in your part of the world.

I'm planning to find out whether Ultima 5 is an upgrade from Etude, maybe before Christmas.

 

[deanaves]

I have a Blu II on order and can't wait for delivery. Just wondering if anyone has recommendation for the cables to connect to the DAVE? Looks like I need 2 BNC SPDIF cables to connect to DX inputs, does anyone know if someone sells a dual cable or do I need 2 cables? Will any cable work or do I need a higher bandwidth cable? I have tried googling the answer but can't find a definite answer on operating at +700 khz. Any thoughts would be appreciated

https://www.wavehighfidelity.com/storm-1/wave-storm-bnc-cable

 

[adrianm]

https://www.wavehighfidelity.com/storm-1/wave-storm-bnc-cable

That post is 4 years old

 

[deanaves]

Didn't take note of the date
Was just trying to help

 

[CallMeCynical]

I have asked this before, but am hoping to get advice from those who are currently doing this or who have tried: My Dave is connected directly to my amps via XLR and I use it to control volume. I want to simultaneously go from the RCA to an active subwoofer. Someone told me this works. Any other advice? Warnings?
Thanks

This is a response to Sampajanna's question regarding low level connection from DAVE RCA out to a sub. I can confirm that parallel output via both RCA and XLR occurs as I have used this very configuration in my system - where DAVE is connected via XLR to a Chord Ultima 6 amp and RCA connection is fed to a single sub. I have now changed the sub and connect via the high level (directly from the amp). By the way, adding a sub to the system was one of the best upgrades I have made in recent times. I debated whether to spend the funds on a linear PSU for the MScaler (and was seriously considering the PLiXiR Elite) and WAVE Storm Ref cables, but wanted to explore more what a sub could do for the system (and how this could better drive the room) .

 

[gnomen]

This is a response to Sampajanna's question regarding low level connection from DAVE RCA out to a sub. I can confirm that parallel output via both RCA and XLR occurs as I have used this very configuration in my system - where DAVE is connected via XLR to a Chord Ultima 6 amp and RCA connection is fed to a single sub. I have now changed the sub and connect via the high level (directly from the amp). By the way, adding a sub to the system was one of the best upgrades I have made in recent times. I debated whether to spend the funds on a linear PSU for the MScaler (and was seriously considering the PLiXiR Elite) and WAVE Storm Ref cables, but wanted to explore more what a sub could do for the system (and how this could better drive the room) .

Wouldn't the sub have its own amp - sorry if I don't understand what you mean here. BTW which sub did you choose?

 

[Sampajanna]

This is a response to Sampajanna's question regarding low level connection from DAVE RCA out to a sub. I can confirm that parallel output via both RCA and XLR occurs as I have used this very configuration in my system - where DAVE is connected via XLR to a Chord Ultima 6 amp and RCA connection is fed to a single sub. I have now changed the sub and connect via the high level (directly from the amp). By the way, adding a sub to the system was one of the best upgrades I have made in recent times. I debated whether to spend the funds on a linear PSU for the MScaler (and was seriously considering the PLiXiR Elite) and WAVE Storm Ref cables, but wanted to explore more what a sub could do for the system (and how this could better drive the room) .

Thanks so much!!! I appreciate the response! I also am interested in what sub you chose. I didnt think I could have subs, due to room size. Also my speakers are full range. But then I got the smaller KC62 sub from KEF to go with the LS50s I have in my b-system and was very impressed indeed. Then I saw they have a bigger brother (KF92) and wondered if those would work in the reference system. So I measured and they will fit in the space.... Excited to explore this possibility!

 

[burbster]

This is a response to Sampajanna's question regarding low level connection from DAVE RCA out to a sub. I can confirm that parallel output via both RCA and XLR occurs as I have used this very configuration in my system - where DAVE is connected via XLR to a Chord Ultima 6 amp and RCA connection is fed to a single sub. I have now changed the sub and connect via the high level (directly from the amp). By the way, adding a sub to the system was one of the best upgrades I have made in recent times. I debated whether to spend the funds on a linear PSU for the MScaler (and was seriously considering the PLiXiR Elite) and WAVE Storm Ref cables, but wanted to explore more what a sub could do for the system (and how this could better drive the room) .

Yes I agree about the sub. I have used two Sub Woofers for some time now in my setup. In my view they are essential, not just for digging deeper, but more importantly, if set up correctly, flattening out the frequency response, which in turn has huge overall benefits.

 

[CallMeCynical]

Thanks so much!!! I appreciate the response! I also am interested in what sub you chose. I didnt think I could have subs, due to room size. Also my speakers are full range. But then I got the smaller KC62 sub from KEF to go with the LS50s I have in my b-system and was very impressed indeed. Then I saw they have a bigger brother (KF92) and wondered if those would work in the reference system. So I measured and they will fit in the space.... Excited to explore this possibility!

I went with a single REL S812 in the end, which is partnered with Focal 1028BE speakers, which already have reasonable bass response. REL recommend connection via the high level input (off the amp rather than via the preamp as a low level connection) so this is how the sub is connected currently. As Burbster commented, subs are pretty much essential for getting the best bass response. I'm still experimenting with set up here and have spent numerous hours measuring room response using REW. Until I spent time measuring what the room was doing, I really had completely underappreciated importance of room acoustics and the level of influence this plays in SQ. I certainly thought understanding how my listening space (a humble rectangular lounge) reacts acoustically to sound would set me down a path of getting better SQ from my system. This is certainly proving to the case as there are some very obvious room anti-modes (nulls) in key bass regions that need to be addressed. It's proving to be a very interesting learning journey...

 

[Jawed]

This is certainly proving to the case as there are some very obvious room anti-modes (nulls) in key bass regions that need to be addressed.

Book cases full of books in room corners work wonders on nulls, e.g. 2m tall and 40cm wide. Surprisingly, heavy cushions help, too, e.g. 90x90cm duck down cushions (accidental discovery). All of these also calm room zinginess

The concept of "slowing the air" is why these things help the bass. You could, instead, spend zillions on bass traps, but they are so ugly.

Bass peaks are tamed by placing the woofer or reflex port at "the right" distance from the nearest wall. e.g. if the worst peak is at 40Hz, then place the reflex ports at a position that minimises it (left-right, front-back). If the peak is at 100Hz, then place the woofers at the appropriate position. Here, I'm assuming your speakers have a reflex port tuned to about 40Hz.

Since you're using REW, spend time moving a single speaker 2cm at a time left-right and front-to back, just measuring that speaker. Then do the same for the other speaker. Use that to get an idea of how symmetrical your room is for bass, then take that as a guide for stereo imaging speaker positioning.

In my opinion this page is the most useful:

https://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/loudspeakers.html

Set up the room dimensions and approximate furnishings and turn off the "room treatment".

Then set your listening position and move the speakers around. It's fun. And astonishingly accurate.

Basically, you want to place the speakers in the squares with the brightest green, which is where the bass will be smoothest.

Spend a few days just learning/experimenting. Try new speaker positions for a week or two at a time, because it's crucial to listen to a variety of music to get a feeling for the changes.

The "Bolt area" visualisation on this page:

https://amcoustics.com/tools/amroc

is very useful. The general concepts there are useful too, but I find the modes it predicts are a poor match for reality in the two rooms I've worked with (only about half correct below about 150Hz).

 

[CallMeCynical]

Book cases full of books in room corners work wonders on nulls, e.g. 2m tall and 40cm wide. Surprisingly, heavy cushions help, too, e.g. 90x90cm duck down cushions (accidental discovery). All of these also calm room zinginess

The concept of "slowing the air" is why these things help the bass. You could, instead, spend zillions on bass traps, but they are so ugly.

Bass peaks are tamed by placing the woofer or reflex port at "the right" distance from the nearest wall. e.g. if the worst peak is at 40Hz, then place the reflex ports at a position that minimises it (left-right, front-back). If the peak is at 100Hz, then place the woofers at the appropriate position. Here, I'm assuming your speakers have a reflex port tuned to about 40Hz.

Since you're using REW, spend time moving a single speaker 2cm at a time left-right and front-to back, just measuring that speaker. Then do the same for the other speaker. Use that to get an idea of how symmetrical your room is for bass, then take that as a guide for stereo imaging speaker positioning.

In my opinion this page is the most useful:

https://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/loudspeakers.html

Set up the room dimensions and approximate furnishings and turn off the "room treatment".

Then set your listening position and move the speakers around. It's fun. And astonishingly accurate.

Basically, you want to place the speakers in the squares with the brightest green, which is where the bass will be smoothest.

Spend a few days just learning/experimenting. Try new speaker positions for a week or two at a time, because it's crucial to listen to a variety of music to get a feeling for the changes.

The "Bolt area" visualisation on this page:

https://amcoustics.com/tools/amroc

is very useful. The general concepts there are useful too, but I find the modes it predicts are a poor match for reality in the two rooms I've worked with (only about half correct below about 150Hz).

Hey Jawed, thank you for the considered reply and links to information on this subject area. This is most appreciated! I'm finding that there's so much conflicting information about the approach one can take I can completely identify with all those persons that have felt the pain of attempting to "tame" the room - either through specialist room acoustic treatments or EQ or adding subs (or any combination of these) or concluded that subs create "muddy" base. As with most folks, I'm limited as to the level of room layout changes etc as I'm not the only person living in the house. There's no way I could conceive of placing those ugly bass traps in the room as this would most likely result in a quick divorce so I'm really just looking to make the most of speaker/sub placement in the room. I'm also slightly wary of using EQ in the system as I expect this would result in some detriment of SQ in the system. Possibly, EQ could be used in the feed to the sub only in order to minimise the effect on SQ.

Interestingly, my DAVE unit has been misbehaving somewhat during measurements rounds as it has sometimes refused to recognise inputs - specifically the dual BNC feed from the MScaler when I've switched between USB and BNC. It switched into DAC mode (and umuted itself) in one instance, which obviously resulted in -3db signal being played through the system! After my heart settled down, I contemplated crafting a strongly worded e-mail to Chord, but thought thought better or it after sleeping on things. Still the fact random things seem to occur when switching between inputs is more than a little unsettling. I'm sure Mr Watts has implemented some logic changes in the FPGA that improve signal detection/function etc in time period since I purchased my DAVE unit (purchased back in Oct 2015) so I wonder if my unit needs to go back to Chord for Firmware update...

 

[Sampajanna]

Nice. I would love to have REL, but not enough space atm… my speakers are full range, but I still think subs will make a big difference, judging by systems I have heard tat hv some installed.

 

[Clive101]

Also any one upgrading a Chord DAC try this link you get a 100 percent buy back of original cost.

UK only

https://www.fanthorpes.co.uk/chord-...il&utm_term=0_b794963e51-387af17ebb-433850989