[mbwilson111]

Weird, lol... have you ever bought anything from them in your name?

I think a couple of things I bought on ebay were actually from them...

 

[assassin10000]

Enjoying my Friday evening with the new Brainwavz KOEL.

Those look tiny. I like. Impressions? Responsive to eq?

I've been looking at trying a small BA IEM of some sort. One that works with poor sources (ie cell phones).

The DD se215 I have is just a hair too large for my ears and extended sessions and I know the newer westone um1 is smaller, which is what I was eyeing originally. I had tennmak pro's for a bit, which fit awesome but they had too much midbass and bled way too much into the mids for me.

 

[crabdog]

Those look tiny. I like. Impressions? Responsive to eq?

I've been looking at trying a small BA IEM of some sort. One that works with poor sources (ie cell phones).

The DD se215 I have is just a hair too large for my ears and extended sessions and I know the newer westone um1 is smaller, which is what I was eyeing originally. I had tennmak pro's for a bit, which fit awesome but they had too much midbass and bled way too much into the mids for me.

If the Tennmak were a good fit for you then this should be as well.

The Koel is far more balanced than the TPro's, is closer to neutral tonality in the mids and has more treble energy. It has a typical BA bass, meaning it's very punchy and textured but doesn't carry a whole lot of weight and on top of that, it has a mid-centric tuning so the bass is on the lighter side.

 

[chickenmoon]

Could you compare Kanas Pro vs Haydn? I really liked the sound of A15 Pro - Haydn, however I had problems with fit. Tonally Haydn sounds 90% like my modded Evos, so I´m not missing on that sound that much.
BUT, I would love to find an over-ear iem with a touch more bass and isolation for commuting and I have a feeling the Kanas Pro could be the one for me.. What do you think?

They don't have much in common IMO, compared to the Haydn the KP is very thick sounding albeit in a very, very good way. Also by comparison to the KP the Haydn's highs feel quite peaky and unnatural. to me now. Fit is better/easier with the KP. The Kanas Pro is tremendously good IMHO and it's taken the top spot here.

 

[chickenmoon]

A quick Anew U1 micro review:

Pros: A cable that is so nice you get orgasms just by looking at it.
Very good sound.

Cons: Lack of front vents and associated issues (deal breaker for me, had I known I wouldn't have bought it)
Might be too bright for some.

Tonally I think it's resolutely but not exaggeratedly v-shaped leaning on the brighter side of things.

Biggest draw back is the lack of front vents and associated issues which are: 1) perfect seal impossible with silicon tips, 2) Quite terrible driver flex, worst I ever experienced, they flex by just opening the mouth or moving the head sometimes and of course always on insertion.

 

[crabdog]

They don't have much in common IMO, compared to the Haydn the KP is very thick sounding albeit in a very, very good way. Also by comparison to the KP the Haydn's highs feel quite peaky and unnatural. to me now. Fit is better/easier with the KP. The Kanas Pro is tremendously good IMHO and it's taken the top spot here.

I'm super curious about the KP. I find the Haydn far too thin, anaemic and yes, the treble is overdone too.

 

[audio123]

My take on the Tansio Mirai TSMR 3. Enjoy!

 

[Slater]

A quick Anew U1 micro review:

Pros: A cable that is so nice you get orgasms just by looking at it.
Very good sound.

Cons: Lack of front vents and associated issues (deal breaker for me, had I known I wouldn't have bought it)
Might be too bright for some.

Tonally I think it's resolutely but not exaggeratedly v-shaped leaning on the brighter side of things.

Biggest draw back is the lack of front vents and associated issues which are: 1) perfect seal impossible with silicon tips, 2) Quite terrible driver flex, worst I ever experienced, they flex by just opening the mouth or moving the head sometimes and of course always on insertion.

You could try adding a front vent. If it’s small enough (say, 0.2mm), it will alleviate the flex with minimal effect on the sound profile.

The micro drill bit sets are only a few dollars on Aliexpress.

 

[chickenmoon]

You could try adding a front vent. If it’s small enough (say, 0.2mm), it will alleviate the flex with minimal effect on the sound profile.

The micro drill bit sets are only a few dollars on Aliexpress.

I thought about it but I don't have a vise and column, no way I can do it cleanly just with a drill I think. I though about using a hot needle too but since they are $100+ I am a bit hesitant trying that kind of stuff.

 

[Slater]

I thought about it but I don't have a vise and column, no way I can do it cleanly just with a drill I think. I though about using a hot needle too but since they are $100+ I am a bit hesitant trying that kind of stuff.

All you need is a “pin vice”. They are about $2.

The pin vice is ideal for IEMs, because you control everything with your fingers. I hold the IEM in 1 hand and slowly twist the pin vice with the other hand. Since it’s all done by hand, I can use gravity to allow the shavings fall out away from the hole as I drill it.

On plastic IEMs the whole process takes maybe 2 minutes per side. Aluminum IEMs take longer.

You still have to find a good spot to locate the vents. I try to do in the nozzle well away from the driver, yet where it won’t be covered up by the ear tip. You also have to be careful not to allow the bit to go too deep into the shell once it finally pierces through the material. I have never once damaged a driver.

And if you don’t like the results (vent hole too large, drilled in the wrong spot, etc) you can cover the hole with tape or glue it shut with a micro drop of UV glue like it never even existed.

Whenever I have a defective IEM, instead of throwing it away I save them for practice (assuming I don’t plan on repairing them or have another use for them). This way, when it comes time to work on the $100 IEMs I can work on the vents with more confidence.

You can initially practice using the drill bits and pin vice on anything (plastic or soft metal like aluminum or copper), from a pen cap to a copper coin.

 

[chickenmoon]

All you need is a “pin vice”. They are about $2.

The pin vice is ideal for IEMs, because you control everything with your fingers. I hold the IEM in 1 hand and slowly twist the pin vice with the other hand. Since it’s all done by hand, I can use gravity to allow the shavings fall out away from the hole as I drill it.

On plastic IEMs the whole process takes maybe 2 minutes per side. Aluminum IEMs take longer.

You still have to find a good spot to locate the vents. I try to do in the nozzle well away from the driver, yet where it won’t be covered up by the ear tip. You also have to be careful not to allow the bit to go too deep into the shell once it finally pierces through the material. I have never once damaged a driver.

And if you don’t like the results (vent hole too large, drilled in the wrong spot, etc) you can cover the hole with tape or glue it shut with a micro drop of UV glue like it never even existed.

Whenever I have a defective IEM, instead of throwing it away I save them for practice (assuming I don’t plan on repairing them or have another use for them). This way, when it comes time to work on the $100 IEMs I can work on the vents with more confidence.

You can initially practice using the drill bits and pin vice on anything (plastic or soft metal like aluminum or copper), from a pen cap to a copper coin.

Thanks, I'll surely be looking into this.

 

[Kevang]

Don't know if this was mentioned earlier, but looks like LZ is back with the A6 and the A6 mini
https://penonaudio.com/lz-a6.html
https://penonaudio.com/lz-a6mini.html

Still not sure what the "Loud" button on the A6 does, but I'm liking the choice between MMCX and 2-pin.

 

[QBANIN]

I just got my BQEYZ BQ3 and I really love how they sound, much better than KZ AS10 imo but... after running some frequency test I found that left earpiece frequency response is slightly different in some frequency ranges (most of them very difficult to notice). The most imbalanced and somewhat annoying is 5000-5500Hz where left earpiece is louder by few dB (can be only noticed while running dry frequency test). KZ AS10 is much closer to perfection or at least I can't hear any differences in frequency response. Is it normal for Chi-Fi products or should I open dispute with seller?

 

[Slater]

Don't know if this was mentioned earlier, but looks like LZ is back with the A6 and the A6 mini
https://penonaudio.com/lz-a6.html
https://penonaudio.com/lz-a6mini.html

Still not sure what the "Loud" button on the A6 does, but I'm liking the choice between MMCX and 2-pin.

Says it’s a gain switch. Likely a resistor attached in series with a button, to better match whatever source you’re using.

 

[CoiL]

A quick Anew U1 micro review:

Pros: A cable that is so nice you get orgasms just by looking at it.
Very good sound.

Cons: Lack of front vents and associated issues (deal breaker for me, had I known I wouldn't have bought it)
Might be too bright for some.

Tonally I think it's resolutely but not exaggeratedly v-shaped leaning on the brighter side of things.

Biggest draw back is the lack of front vents and associated issues which are: 1) perfect seal impossible with silicon tips, 2) Quite terrible driver flex, worst I ever experienced, they flex by just opening the mouth or moving the head sometimes and of course always on insertion.

Thanks for posting this! I was really excited about these when I also stumbled upon U1 serious problem with driver flex.
When first very positive impressions ran out (claiming them better than IT01 soundwise), nobody mentioned that issue.
Because of that driver flex issue I have put U1 "on hold" and waiting for new version. Also, IT01S seems to be "alternative" improvement soundwise to IT01.

You could try adding a front vent. If it’s small enough (say, 0.2mm), it will alleviate the flex with minimal effect on the sound profile.
The micro drill bit sets are only a few dollars on Aliexpress.

All you need is a “pin vice”. They are about $2.
The pin vice is ideal for IEMs, because you control everything with your fingers. I hold the IEM in 1 hand and slowly twist the pin vice with the other hand. Since it’s all done by hand, I can use gravity to allow the shavings fall out away from the hole as I drill it.
On plastic IEMs the whole process takes maybe 2 minutes per side. Aluminum IEMs take longer.
You still have to find a good spot to locate the vents. I try to do in the nozzle well away from the driver, yet where it won’t be covered up by the ear tip. You also have to be careful not to allow the bit to go too deep into the shell once it finally pierces through the material. I have never once damaged a driver.
And if you don’t like the results (vent hole too large, drilled in the wrong spot, etc) you can cover the hole with tape or glue it shut with a micro drop of UV glue like it never even existed.
Whenever I have a defective IEM, instead of throwing it away I save them for practice (assuming I don’t plan on repairing them or have another use for them). This way, when it comes time to work on the $100 IEMs I can work on the vents with more confidence.
You can initially practice using the drill bits and pin vice on anything (plastic or soft metal like aluminum or copper), from a pen cap to a copper coin.

Great advice!

Don't know if this was mentioned earlier, but looks like LZ is back with the A6 and the A6 mini
https://penonaudio.com/lz-a6.html
https://penonaudio.com/lz-a6mini.html

Still not sure what the "Loud" button on the A6 does, but I'm liking the choice between MMCX and 2-pin.

Is it just me or are A6 nozzles length and angle relative to shell messed up? I surely wouldn`t buy such nozzle+shell configuring as they wouldn`t fit for my ears.