[Fra Diavolo]

I was afraid that might be the case. I'd need to send it in for that, right? In the meantime, I've been looking at possible replacements (Shanling M2s and iBasso DX80, perhaps). But if battery replacement is not expensive or even something I could do myself, that would be a better option for me than buying a whole new unit right now. Also, this has been the best sounding player I've owned. Thanks for the replies. I always enjoy your posts and I liked your video on the M2s.

 

[nmatheis]

I was afraid that might be the case. I'd need to send it in for that, right? In the meantime, I've been looking at possible replacements (Shanling M2s and iBasso DX80, perhaps). But if battery replacement is not expensive or even something I could do myself, that would be a better option for me than buying a whole new unit right now. Also, this has been the best sounding player I've owned. Thanks for the replies. I always enjoy your posts and I liked your video on the M2s.

I haven't opened up my N5 before, so I'm not sure if the battery is readily user replaceable. @Andykong should be able to tell us. I've replaced iPhone batteries before, so I'd feel confident doing it but if you haven't done this kind of thing before it can feel intimidating.

Replacements for N5 could be something like iBasso DX80, Shanling M2s or M3s, or the upcoming Cayin N5ii. But I'd like to see if we can remove your N5 first!

 

[Fra Diavolo]

I will wait and see what Andy says...there's a tiny star-shaped screw in the bottom of the unit, but I don't have a screwdriver that shape or that small. I also noticed another thing that's happening. Now, If I plug the usb cable into the N5 and into a computer or power supply, the orange flashing light doesn't come on anymore. But if I slightly jiggle the cable next to the N5 or give it an extra push, it turns the N5 on and off again. But I can't get it to stay on or start charging. I'm starting to wonder if it isn't the battery, but a faulty power connection somewhere.

As far as replacements go, capacity is a huge issue for me. One of the things that drew me to the N5 in the first place was the dual MicroSD card slots. I have just over 33,000 tracks, but I've always had most of them encoded either 192 or 320vbr. I was just getting ready to re-rip my collection into FLAC when this happened. What I liked about the M2s was the OTG capability. I think I could put my collection on an external drive and access it that way. 99% of my listening happens at my office desk, so portability isn't a major priority. If I wanted music in the car, I'd just rely on the card slot.

 

[Andykong]

Open up the chassis of N5 is pretty straightforward, replacing the battery only require minimum hands-on technique, but sending a battery to oversee will be a big problem, basically all fright forwarder refused to accept uninstalled lithium battery right now, that's why spare phone or notebook battery can only be on-board a plane as carry on item only .

So it's very likely that you need to send the N5 back to Cayin for battery replacement. Email service@cayin.cn to find out the details arrangements please.

 

[nmatheis]

Ah yes, the Li-ion conundrum. I've encountered that quite a bit recently as I've purchased some DIY gear...

Best of luck @Fra Diavolo. N5 is a classic, so I'm hoping you can get it fixed!

 

[Fra Diavolo]

I appreciate the reply, Andy and that makes a lot of sense about the battery shipments. After my last post, I decided for giggles to plug the N5 into my computer USB again. It did the same on/off cycle as before with no flashing light. I picked it up and the light started flashing. So I set it down as gently as I could. (Like putting a baby to bed. lol) Four hours later, I had 75% charge! I had to unplug it because I didn't want to leave it plugged all night. Today, I'll give it a try at work. I feel like this confirms my suspicion that it isn't the battery at all, but somewhere along the line, a connection is not secure. I'm not sure what I did differently before. I've tried it with and without the case, so it isn't the case preventing a connection. I don't really notice any movement in the socket when I plug the cable in. But I have to believe something's come loose. Soldering is way past my expertise, so either way, I'll have to ship it for repairs or replace it. Thanks again for the help.

 

[nmatheis]

Seems like there's still hope, then @Fra Diavolo

 

[Fra Diavolo]

So to continue the story...I managed to find which place to gently tap on the cable to get the N5 charging again. If you're holding the N5 face up and tap the right side of the cable very lightly, it starts to charge. I managed to get it up to 100% today. I stopped on the way home and purchased a T5 precision torx screwdriver that fits the screw and a soldering iron with some fine electrical solder, just in case. Opening up the case was pretty easy, there's only the one screw. (I took the microSD cards out first.) Once the screw is out you can very gently pull the bottom half of the case apart as far as the wire will allow. Then you pull the face side downward. The only wire connecting the two halves is from the battery to the charging port on the bottom. I didn't notice any obviously disconnected or loose wires and the usb port seemed to be firmly in place. At this point, I got nervous and put it all back together again. lol. The N5 turned on and remembered just where I was last listening as if I hadn't just invaded it's inner space. I took pictures as I went and if I can I'll post them here, unless it breaks a forum rule? At this point, I really am hoping it was the cable all along. I don't think it is the battery, and the connections inside seem fine. Still waiting for the cable to arrive. I'd have been better off to run to an electronics store to buy one.

On a happy note, I spent the day listening to my David Bowie albums on my N5.

 

[Fra Diavolo]

This first photo shows the screw at the bottom of the N5 and also the USB port. I took this photo prior to opening up the N5.

This photo shows the two halves of the case, attached by the battery wires.

This photo is a close-up of the USB port and the wire connections. It is slightly blurry, but you can see that the connections seems to be solid. I didn't detect any movement at all in the port.

 

[nmatheis]

Glad you're taking the time to troubleshoot this and share your experience amount the way in text and pictures @Fra Diavolo. Great job!

 

[Fra Diavolo]

Thanks! After about 8 hours of usage, I'm still left with about 38% charge, so the battery is definitely capable of holding a charge. Now all that's left is to wait on that cable. (This is the last time I choose the "Ship all items in one shipment" option from Amazon!)

 

[nmatheis]

I hope a new cable solves the issue, then. Fingers crossed for you!

 

[BigAL64]

I'm skeptical that it's your USB cable. Have you tried any other cable? Any USB 3.0 cable should work. I have several that came with USB 3.0 hard drive enclosures I've purchased over the years, and they ALL work with my N5 DAP. Wiggling a cable that's plugged into a USB port, on a 'device', to make it work (charge a battery or provide a signal path) is called an 'intermittent electrical connection', which, more often than not, indicates a cold solder joint in either the wiring from the port to whatever is connected to it, or at the connector itself; where it's soldered to the printed circuit (PC) board it's mounted to.

Either is a pretty simple 'fix', IF you're at all skilled with a soldering iron. If you're not, there are dozens of YouTube videos that will provide guidance. If there's a local repair shop where you live, ask if they have any scrap boards laying around that you can practice on. Or, go to any second-hand shop (Goodwill or whatever) and buy the cheapest 'thing' you can find that's got a PC board in it. Practice makes perfect and if you're determined, there are VERY few things you can't fix yourself.

 

[Fra Diavolo]

I'm skeptical that it's your USB cable. Have you tried any other cable? Any USB 3.0 cable should work. I have several that came with USB 3.0 hard drive enclosures I've purchased over the years, and they ALL work with my N5 DAP. Wiggling a cable that's plugged into a USB port, on a 'device', to make it work (charge a battery or provide a signal path) is called an 'intermittent electrical connection', which, more often than not, indicates a cold solder joint in either the wiring from the port to whatever is connected to it, or at the connector itself; where it's soldered to the printed circuit (PC) board it's mounted to.

Either is a pretty simple 'fix', IF you're at all skilled with a soldering iron. If you're not, there are dozens of YouTube videos that will provide guidance. If there's a local repair shop where you live, ask if they have any scrap boards laying around that you can practice on. Or, go to any second-hand shop (Goodwill or whatever) and buy the cheapest 'thing' you can find that's got a PC board in it. Practice makes perfect and if you're determined, there are VERY few things you can't fix yourself.

The 3.0 cable is the one I'm waiting for from Amazon. I don't own another one, at the moment. My first thought after deciding it wasn't the battery was the connection. This is a new problem and not one I've had in the past, which would lead me to believe that something came loose. I didn't see anything when I opened the case, but I'm no expert. Once the cable arrives, I'll know for certain where the issue lies. Thanks for the post, I bought a soldering iron the other day, and getting an old piece of electronics to practice on is a great idea.

 

[Fra Diavolo]

So, moment of truth...The USB 3.0 cable finally arrived today. It actually fits extremely loose in the port, so if I move it too much, the cable just falls out. Which is odd. I bought an Amazon Basics cable. What's even more strange is that the N5 started charging immediately, with no fiddling with the cable at all.