zkool448
100+ Head-Fier
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- Jan 5, 2009
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Quote:
Kuroguy, no I didn’t use a template but I’ll describe how the face plate came to be.
First I carefully machined the face plate ‘slopes’ on each side and the middle which I thought was the difficult part because the router bit left a bunch of ‘lines’ behind. I had to sand a lot and made sure the surface was absolutely flat. After that I recessed the holes for the knobs, then marked and drilled the HP jack and Bulgin switch holes. 2-3 hours later, I realized the next step was going to be even harder which is cutting out the rectangle window for the vu meters. I knew that if I screwed up at that point, all the work I just did would’ve been wasted. So I carefully laid out the measurements of the VU on the face plate, used the table router along with stop blocks, guides and clamps, and the router fence then I slowly routed out the inside rectangle as precisely as I possibly could. I kept my hands steady and the fact that I didn’t want to have to start over from scratch, I really took my time doing it. I think the secret is patience and go at it real slow while trying to stay within the lines.
Quote:
jdkJake, actually I find working with MDF easier than regular hard wood. I just make sure that I use really sharp saw blades and/or router bits.
The finish will be done the same way as I did the top lids for my SOHA II and CTH (see my sig). cheers.
Originally Posted by kuroguy /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have one and find it terribly difficult to get perfectly straight lines, even with a fence on the scroll saw. I've used a table saw before, but the length of the side of the rectangle needs to be near or greater than the diameter of the blade. Works ok with my mini table saw, but I'm usually working blind. Do you use that nice router table to cut rectangles or do you make a template? |
Kuroguy, no I didn’t use a template but I’ll describe how the face plate came to be.
First I carefully machined the face plate ‘slopes’ on each side and the middle which I thought was the difficult part because the router bit left a bunch of ‘lines’ behind. I had to sand a lot and made sure the surface was absolutely flat. After that I recessed the holes for the knobs, then marked and drilled the HP jack and Bulgin switch holes. 2-3 hours later, I realized the next step was going to be even harder which is cutting out the rectangle window for the vu meters. I knew that if I screwed up at that point, all the work I just did would’ve been wasted. So I carefully laid out the measurements of the VU on the face plate, used the table router along with stop blocks, guides and clamps, and the router fence then I slowly routed out the inside rectangle as precisely as I possibly could. I kept my hands steady and the fact that I didn’t want to have to start over from scratch, I really took my time doing it. I think the secret is patience and go at it real slow while trying to stay within the lines.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdkJake /img/forum/go_quote.gif Do you find MDF difficult to work with? I found it cuts easy, but, also chips easy if you are not careful. Any advice? How are you going to finish it? (if you don't mind me asking) |
jdkJake, actually I find working with MDF easier than regular hard wood. I just make sure that I use really sharp saw blades and/or router bits.
The finish will be done the same way as I did the top lids for my SOHA II and CTH (see my sig). cheers.