[srserl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amphead /img/forum/go_quote.gif Still working on your amp Pabbi, hope to bring it to the Burning Amp show.

That might entice me to head over to Burning Amp! I'm looking for a headphone amp project for the new year (that's when I will hopefully finish up everything I have committed
to building now). Please post here if you are definitely going to take it to Burning Amp.

Scott

 

[AudioCats]

Quote:

Originally Posted by huskydawg9 /img/forum/go_quote.gif HOW DO THESE VITAMIN Q'S COMPARE TO RUSSIAN TEFLON FT-3'S??? I JUST OBTAINED A BUNCH OF THESE. I'M NOT BLOWN AWAY YET, BUT I HEARD THEY TAKE A LONG TIME TO BREAK IN.

the 96P VitQ's are at about the same performence level as the Auri's, of course, the flavor is very different.

The FT-3, on the other hand, easily beats the Auri/VitQ, this is quite obvious if you compare the caps through an electrostatic rig of some kind. VitQ and Auri are both strongly flavored while the FT-3 is much less so, it wins with pure transparency.

The problem with FT-3 0.1uf/600V is the large size, 1.1"(D)x 2"(L), and the long wait for them to arrive from Russia, my last purchase took 25 days to get to me. Of course if you already have the FT-3 at hand and has room in the case, then you should definitly use them.

 

[pabbi1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amphead /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wow, a power supply redesign. Interesting. Still working on your amp Pabbi, hope to bring it to the Burning Amp show.

That would be great - especially to listen to other folks opinions about the amp, and how it stacks up.

 

[chobint]

So a mixture of boredom and desire to perform Regal's mod soon here, has yielded the following diagram. Would something like this work for a PSU retrofit? The orange square is a perfboard mounted using standoffs in the existing holes in the PCB, and the pink dots denote rubber feet used to support the other end of the board. That's my best thought on how to mount heatsinks without drilling any holes in the PCB.

 

[huskydawg9]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioCats /img/forum/go_quote.gif the 96P VitQ's are at about the same performence level as the Auri's, of course, the flavor is very different. The FT-3, on the other hand, easily beats the Auri/VitQ, this is quite obvious if you compare the caps through an electrostatic rig of some kind. VitQ and Auri are both strongly flavored while the FT-3 is much less so, it wins with pure transparency. The problem with FT-3 0.1uf/600V is the large size, 1.1"(D)x 2"(L), and the long wait for them to arrive from Russia, my last purchase took 25 days to get to me. Of course if you already have the FT-3 at hand and has room in the case, then you should definitly use them.

Thanks for your opinion. I am currently running my Bijou with Regal's mod, 6H30's and a 1uF Clarity cap & a 0.22 uF FT-3 in parallel. I bought a ton of the FT-3 0.22's with the idea of using 4 or 5 of these in each channel in a balanced version. I have 2 more sets of boards, and am seriously thinking of pursuing it further. But, I if I do... I want to do it right the first time, with careful consideration of the right components. As I write this, I'm listening to my setup (which I have been modding and tweeking for 6months), and it hasn't sounded any sweeter then it does now. Currently using my SE Bijou with Itunes (Apple lossless) and a USB connected Buffalo as the source (Grado 325i's for the phones). I can't even imagine what a balanced version might sound like... as what I have now is already close to a religious experience. Any comments for improvements?

 

[runeight]

Quote:

Originally Posted by chobint /img/forum/go_quote.gif So a mixture of boredom and desire to perform Regal's mod soon here, has yielded the following diagram. Would something like this work for a PSU retrofit? The orange square is a perfboard mounted using standoffs in the existing holes in the PCB, and the pink dots denote rubber feet used to support the other end of the board. That's my best thought on how to mount heatsinks without drilling any holes in the PCB.

This looks like it will work to me.

 

[fishski13]

Quote:

Originally Posted by chobint /img/forum/go_quote.gif So a mixture of boredom and desire to perform Regal's mod soon here, has yielded the following diagram. Would something like this work for a PSU retrofit? The orange square is a perfboard mounted using standoffs in the existing holes in the PCB, and the pink dots denote rubber feet used to support the other end of the board. That's my best thought on how to mount heatsinks without drilling any holes in the PCB.

rune,
thanks for the mod. i will be placing a final order with Digi-Key on Mon and will include bits for this for my second PS. i will then attempt the mod on the first PS i built. i've never desoldered big lytics like these. i intentionally soldered them a bit high on the PCB for this reason.

chobint,
thanks!! i was going to sit down tonight to figure out the best way to do this mod, and you've beat me to it!!!

i want to try some P2P with one of the internal dividers as a heatsink.

nearly finished the amp boards tonight. still waiting for parts to trickle in from a total of 6 different sources.

 

[adamus]

I have been waiting for a scope to connect my two 6.3v secondaries in phase, but thinkign about it, surely this would work:

all 6.3 wires are grey, with no markings. but with a dmm you can tell which are which secondary.

1)disconnect heater secondary from ps board.

2) twist two wires together from the different secondary.

3) check voltage between free ends.

if 12v then dont twist the remaining together. if 0v, then surely we are in phase?

or am i being thick (very likely at this time of the morning)

 

[runeight]

adamus, i believe that will work. just make sure you have the primary fused in case it doesn't.

 

[fishski13]

is the resistor 4k7 shorthand for 4.7K?

 

[runeight]

yes

 

[GeWa]

Yep

 

[randytsuch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishski13 /img/forum/go_quote.gif is the resistor 4k7 shorthand for 4.7K?

yes

 

[steel]

I want to buy some tubes for my Mijou.

6n6p & 6n6p-i which is right?

Thanks..

 

[huskydawg9]

Would I benefit with better lower end response by increasing the value of C5 (I'm using 30ohm phones)? Such as 1800uF.