[BobSaysHi]

Quote:

 

So I guess there is no true DIYer nor Audiophile here that will try, explore and experiment yourself different ways of improving sound and just blinding think that all of this is a myth.
 
Anyway to close this thread?

 
 

YOU CAN'T MUAHAHAHAHHAHA
 
Cardas solder is a pain to use. I recently switched to Kester 66/44 No 44 solder.
 

 

[bertchai]

Quote:

YOU CAN'T MUAHAHAHAHHAHA
 
Cardas solder is a pain to use. I recently switched to Kester 66/44 No 44 solder.
 

Yeah, I also tried Cardas and it is not good to work with.  I am trying a bit of Siltech Silver Solder MKII at the moment. It is quite ok to work with.  Still need to get it run-in to see how that sounds compared to WBT.   I have been told the Oyaide SS47 also give smooth vocal. Hopefully will try that soon.

 
 

 

[Saintkeat]

i was so tempted to hit the buy button, till i starting thinking to myself, why bother when I can't afford/find pure silver stranded cables... =(

 

[Danthrax]

You totally need this solder, it's from the future and it is magic. Made from pure unicorn horns
 
All for the low price of 30lbs of gold.

 

[Uncle Erik]

 

So I guess there is no true DIYer nor Audiophile here that will try, explore and experiment yourself different ways of improving sound and just blinding think that all of this is a myth.
 
Anyway to close this thread?

 
 

Yes, there is a way to close threads. I won't do it yet, though.

First, I use plain old 60/40. Usually Kester, but I haven't found a 60/40 I didn't like.

I've experimented with a variety of solders. Hated pretty much everything but 60/40. Weird melting temperatures, difficulty making joints, and much else.

The entire point of a solder joint is to make a physical connection. A good connection with 60/40 will sound better than some mystical solder made of precious metals mined from a sacred mountain, plunged into liquid nitrogen and bathed in the tears of a virgin monk.

If you can get a good physical connection from the mystical stuff, then it will sound exactly the same as any other good physical connection.

But my experience is that you can get good physical connections from 60/40 easier than with anything else. So using 60/40 makes the most sense. It is easy to work and affordable.

By the way, Google "tin whiskers." You'll notice that 60/40 doesn't have that problem.

Also, I'm concerned that you're operating from the false assumption that everything has to sound different. As much research and many listening tests have demonstrated, there's often no difference whatsoever between some audio components. Solder is one of those.

Of course, the people selling you that stuff make all sorts of claims. But that's like a car salesman telling you that a new car will make you taller, thinner and better looking.

 

[BobSaysHi]

Thanks for stopping by with some sanity, UE. 

 

[limpidglitch]

A 63/37 solder should have practically the same melting point as a 60/40 solder, except the latter takes longer to solidify, therefore increasing the risk of making bad connections if you're not careful. Both are lead solders, so neither will produce whiskers.
 
Personally I favour resin-less 63/37.
 
Finding solder with a gauge suitable for the specific job at hand is of course also beneficial.

 

[BobSaysHi]

Quote:

A 63/37 solder should have practically the same melting point as a 60/40 solder, except the latter takes longer to solidify, therefore increasing the risk of making bad connections if you're not careful. Both are lead solders, so neither will produce whiskers.
 
Personally I favour resin-less 63/37.
 
Finding solder with a gauge suitable for the specific job at hand is of course also beneficial.

Why resin-less?
 
EDIT: 1888th post. I think that's significant

 

[Mkubota1]

Really... not that much more different than cables and green pens. 

 

[Lil' Knight]

Quote:

So I guess there is no true DIYer nor Audiophile here that will try, explore and experiment yourself different ways of improving sound and just blinding think that all of this is a myth.

roflmao.

 

[limpidglitch]

Quote:

Why resin-less?
 
EDIT: 1888th post. I think that's significant

So I can use water soluble flux. Easier to clean. Or no-clean flux. when I'm lazy.

 

[IPodPJ]

Quote:

 

So I guess there is no true DIYer nor Audiophile here that will try, explore and experiment yourself different ways of improving sound and just blinding think that all of this is a myth.
 
Anyway to close this thread?

 
 

Being an audiophile doesn't mean you have to blindly believe silly nonsense.  Solder is designed to make a joint, and you want it to be good at that and easy to use.

 

[balderon]

Quote:

So I guess there is no true DIYer nor Audiophile here that will try, explore and experiment yourself different ways of improving sound and just blinding think that all of this is a myth.
 
Anyway to close this thread?

oh boy.

 

[bertchai]

If you can't tell the different between different solders ( of course perfect solder joint work ), it is the same as saying you cannot tell the different between different cables.
 
I should emphasis that I am trying to see if anyone has experimence in term of sound quailty of different solder, so is to share.  I do assume that all of you can do a great solder work. For example, I have been soldering since I was 8 and has been soldering on almost daily basis for more than 30 years.
 

 

[BobSaysHi]

Quote:

If you can't tell the different between different solders ( of course perfect solder joint work ), it is the same as saying you cannot tell the different between different cables.
 
I should emphasis that I am trying to see if anyone has experimence in term of sound quailty of different solder, so is to share.  I do assume that all of you can do a great solder work. For example, I have been soldering since I was 8 and has been soldering on almost daily basis for more than 30 years.
 

As long as the cable is constructed well, I can't tell the difference between cables.