[Fitz]

There's not really much to tell on the regulated supply... it's just an LM317 stuck in between the unregulated supply and the amp itself. I used the new heatsinks I put on the side as a way to keep it cooled. I have to open the Bada back up to remove something I was experimenting with, I guess I can take additional pictures and write up some steps then...

The 6F8Gs use the smaller sized grid cap, but why would you want to replace the sockets with loctals if you like the 6F8G (which is octal)? Unless you're wanting to use 7N7s in the amp, but in that case I'd still just use some appropriate adapters and leave the octal sockets in.

 

[pataburd]

Hey, Gang!
Just thought I'd spice this thread up with an overhead view of the underbelly of the Fitz-Max Bada PH-12 ULTRA! : )

Fitz-Max Bada PH-12 ULTRA (1) picture by pataburd - Photobucket.

: )

 

[DVasdekis]

Fitz,

From a cost-benefit perspective, what upgrades would you recommend for the PH-12 that cost less than around $300 all up? I'm not interested in your speaker amp conversion, only the headphone portion

Also where did you learn your electronics knowledge? It's formidable!

Cheers

 

[cyberan]

For all the ph-12 owners, I wish to become an owner and modify my bada, yet I have a very limited physical space.
Can anyone measure the exact size of the bada and let me know, i wish to know if it fits my space.

Height (including tubes), and width.

Thanks in advance

 

[pataburd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberan /img/forum/go_quote.gif For all the ph-12 owners, I wish to become an owner and modify my bada, yet I have a very limited physical space. Can anyone measure the exact size of the bada and let me know, i wish to know if it fits my space. Height (including tubes), and width. Thanks in advance

The Bada runs uncommonly hot, so make sure you plan for adequate ventilation space around the unit. Many of us PH-12 owners use active cooling with an outboard fan, since the inboard fan is both noisy and, for the most part, ineffective. I'll try to get you measurements, directly from my Bada, by day's end. Accounting for transformer height will take care of tube height, too. : )

 

[pataburd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberan /img/forum/go_quote.gif . . . Can anyone measure the exact size of the bada and let me know, i wish to know if it fits my space. Height (including tubes), and width. Thanks in advance

L x W x H, according to the dimensions printed on the Bada PH-12 box are: 430mm x 245mm x 215mm, or about 16.9in x 9.7in x 8.5in (these dimensions might be a little conservative--a good thing). Remember to make ample allowances for air to circulate around the Bada for proper cooling.

 

[cyberan]

Thanks a lot for your reply, it is a bit higher than my space, I guess I can not use it in my current space.

(too high for my shelve space).

 

[pataburd]

Update:
The VH TFTF capacitors are at about 300 hours now, and the Fitz-Maxxed PH-12 ULTRA is finally coming into its own. Following the evolving sound signature has been like a roller coaster ride, with the amp sounding alternately quite good, then insufferably poor; at first sounding muffled, then sounding etched, then muffled again, etc.

Last night, with 1x Mullard ECC33 and 2x Russian 1578, the sound has gotten very transparent and detailed, but at the same time more dynamic. Donna Summers' disco standard, "I Feel Love" was mesmerizing in its pulsy, bass ungulating manner. This morning, with 1x JAN CBS 5692 and 2x Raytheon VT-231, Santana (the very bassy Legacy re-master) sounds just right over the UPOCC re-cabled K501! : ) Another 100 hours or so and, God willing, I want to a/b some headphones.

For the most part, I've been driving the (stock) DT880/2003 and really like the synergy with the Bada. Also, the 3-level crossfeed that Fitz so artfully installed is usually "on", set on the "low" (#1) level, and is very enjoyable. Thanks again, Fitz! : )

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Wow nice work Fitz.....Pata those Teflon caps do all kinds of funky things during burn in (as do the large electrolytic caps). I found the Russian T-3 Teflons took 1K hours to start settling down give or take 100 hours or so. The T-3's sound very similar to the CVH caps (not surprisingly).

I'm sure it will sound heavenly once all the new stuff is settled down...........

What's next ? A new chassis point to point version ?

Not that you need to do that.

Peete.

 

[pataburd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif What's next ? A new chassis point to point version ? Not that you need to do that. Peete.

Peete,
Next? After 17 weeks of unemployment, I need to find a job! Point-to-point would be nice, though. (I can almost hear Fitz groaning all the way from GA!) : )

But just put together a budget, non-headphone system for my wife (Denon 1940CI player, AMC XIAB integrated, Wharfedale Diamond 9.1 monitors, Virtue Audio Nirvana ICs and speaker cable, Iego L70530 + 8055 PCs--currently looking for a pair of stands) and so I'll be engaged in "outboard" speaker listening, too. Everything, with the exception of the cables, was bought used, of course.

The AMC is supposed to have a good headphone output as well. : )

I'm thinking about selling some stuff and springing for DakiOm's new F273 feedback stabilizer when I rejoin the ranks of the "jobbed ones". If I don't have work by year's end, God willing, I'll go to school full time for Theological studies. : )
PAB

 

[pataburd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DVasdekis /img/forum/go_quote.gif Fitz, From a cost-benefit perspective, what upgrades would you recommend for the PH-12 that cost less than around $300 all up? I'm not interested in your speaker amp conversion, only the headphone portion Also where did you learn your electronics knowledge? It's formidable! Cheers

If you backtrack these threads, Black Stuart and Tourmaline have commented exhaustively about the "basic" mods to the PH-12. I think Tour has even prioritized/rank-ordered the upgrades (e.g. see Tour's 06/04/2008 post on page 19, with the black and blue circled photograph).

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Good luck with the job hunt Pata ! I'll send some good vibes/luck your way

That budget system for the wife is already better than any of my neighbors stuff (all of them combined) and by a fair margin

How many hours do you have on your Ultra ?

Peete.

 

[pataburd]

Peete,
Thank you for your kind wishes. : )
It's difficult to say for sure how many hours I have on the Ultra, since the mods came in two phases (the VH caps in the first phase and the electrolytics and crossfeed on the second), but I'd say between 300+ and 400- hours.
Will keep you posted.

Deo gratias!
Patrick

 

[Black Stuart]

I just had to post the latest mod which is good not only for the Bada but any amp.

I have finished with my i/cs - I now have the definitive version, with which I was very, very pleased but I then remembered that for real continuity of the signal I should change out the signal wiring in the Bada.

I had changed the s/wiring about a year earlier when I started using multiple conductors and I had replicated what I was using for i/cs 4 x 26AWG silver/plated OFHC copper solid core, wrapped in Kapton.



It was a tricky piece of work because of the low loss sat. cable which I use for dialectric and soldering onto the PCB plate that Bada use on top of the Alps pot.

Anyway it was finally done - checked that all was OK, plugged everything in and then switched on and as always stayed to check that all was OK and then left the whole thing on for about 1/2 hour.

I nearly always use Natalie Merchant - Ophelia or Retrospective to check out a mod.

What a profound improvement - incredible dynamics and bass was something else, voices 3D.

The only difference between the i/cs and the internal signal wiring was bare wire against wrapped wire - what a difference.

I can now say with certainty - forget all about trying different i/cs until you have changed the internal amp signal wiring - you will never hear how good or bad an i/c cable is until you upgrade this internal wiring.

By using double sheilded dialectric you are sheilding the delicate incoming audio signal from all noise and interference.

So good is the sound from the s/plated copper wire, that it is only today I am thinking about changing the 4 conductors and using Mundorf silver/gold wire or maybe the UP-OCC silver wire.

This time I will do it the right way - first change the amp wiring and then make up a pair of i/cs using the silver wire (I don't have enough of the Mundorf s/gold wire to make i/cs as well.

If you prefer copper - then buy the best and use that - nobody will be dissapointed at the results.

This mod will work for any amp/h/amp that has internal signal wiring.

I can make up an internal signal wiring set for anyone with a Bada PH12 using s/plated OFHC copper and the LL sat. cable - the only tricky bit is working out the soldering sequence on the Alps Blue PCB - that's it.

 

[pataburd]

Fitz put UP-OCC signal wire in my Bada. Ditto. A noteworthy improvement! : )