[pataburd]

The Bada is back online, w/1x Mullard ECC33 and 2x Russian 1578.

Now I can listen to the K501 again! : ) The AKG simply sound much, much better on the Bada: more real, more musical, more filled out and more "lyrical."

To be honest, though, I've since grown to prefer the D2000 on the DV337 (Ah! those Mullard 6080s!). The 337--with the right tubes--really played on the D2000's strengths well. Although, the D2000 do indeed sound very enjoyable--more sleek, liquidy and musical--with the PH-12. Oh! these likeable, likeable, likeable D2000! : )

The Darkvoice's poor match with the K501 may force an eventual sale of the 337. (It's up on the threads for an IC as we speak.) It's either two amps and one set of headphones or one amp and two sets of headphones. Right now, I'm more inclined to give up the Darkvoice than the K501.

 

[Skylab]

Interesting findings. I like the DV 337 with my AKG K340, but they are very different from the K501's I'm sure.

 

[pataburd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skylab /img/forum/go_quote.gif Interesting findings. I like the DV 337 with my AKG K340, but they are very different from the K501's I'm sure.

Sky,
Unfortunately, I did not get the chance to audition the K340 with the DV337. Ironically, the money from my sale of the K340 helped fund my proximate purchase of the Darkvoice.
PAB

 

[tourmaline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pataburd /img/forum/go_quote.gif The Bada is back online, w/1x Mullard ECC33 and 2x Russian 1578. Now I can listen to the K501 again! : ) The AKG simply sound much, much better on the Bada: more real, more musical, more filled out and more "lyrical." To be honest, though, I've since grown to prefer the D2000 on the DV337 (Ah! those Mullard 6080s!). The 337--with the right tubes--really played on the D2000's strengths well. Although, the D2000 do indeed sound very enjoyable--more sleek, liquidy and musical--with the PH-12. Oh! these likeable, likeable, likeable D2000! : ) The Darkvoice's poor match with the K501 may force an eventual sale of the 337. (It's up on the threads for an IC as we speak.) It's either two amps and one set of headphones or one amp and two sets of headphones. Right now, I'm more inclined to give up the Darkvoice than the K501.

Imagine the modded bada.

 

[pataburd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tourmaline /img/forum/go_quote.gif If somebody is interested in a pair of sylvania w's(good as new, hardly used) or a pair of russian 1578 (the real deal) just let me know.

Tour,
Swapped the 2x Russian 1578 w/2x Sylvania 6SN7GTB tall bottle (thanks, Skylab!) on the Bada. Much better presentation! The 1578 actually sounded hard and congested. The Sylvania are much more open, better controlled and "thicker"/weightier in the midrange. A great match with the Mullard ECC33. : )
PAB

 

[tourmaline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pataburd /img/forum/go_quote.gif Tour, Swapped the 2x Russian 1578 w/2x Sylvania 6SN7GTB tall bottle (thanks, Skylab!) on the Bada. Much better presentation! The 1578 actually sounded hard and congested. The Sylvania are much more open, better controlled and "thicker"/weightier in the midrange. A great match with the Mullard ECC33. : ) PAB

You're not the only one liking other tubes better then the famous 1578 russians.

 

[pataburd]

Took the DV337 home today and have it running with the Panasonic S47 player. My Bada needs to go to the repair shop for a mosFET replacement (I was a careless boy!), and possibly the signal coupling cap upgrades.

As good as the DV sounds, I genuinely miss the Bada! Not only does it drive the K501 much better than the DV, but it is, IMHO, much more musically engaging.

 

[Skylab]

Patrick, how does one blow the mosfets in a Bada? Seems to have happened to several people on head-fi...

 

[pataburd]

Sky,
Blown mosfets usually result from rolling tubes before the capacitors sufficiently drain.

Bada originally recommended a two-hour wait before changing tubes; Pacific Valve (Bada retailers here in the US) recommended 4-6 hours. Users posting on the "big" Bada thread wait anywhere from 6 to 24 hours. I've rolled after about an hour with no problems, but typically wait overnight. Others power down the Bada, but leave the player running in order to hasten the drain.

On another thread, the writer informs us that Bada has modified the more recent PH-12 circuitry to include diodes to bleed the capacitors more quickly and prevent undue mosfet failure.

A mosfet just went kaput on my unit, but it was due to my carelessly removing tubes in a hurry (without thinking) when our offices were being moved.

Anyway, with the Bada in the shop, I may get the signal-coupling capacitors replaced with better ones along with getting the (left) mosfet replaced.

Admittedly, it is a pain, though.

PAB

 

[Gradofan2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pataburd /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sky, Blown mosfets usually result from rolling tubes before the capacitors sufficiently drain. Bada originally recommended a two-hour wait before changing tubes; Pacific Valve (Bada retailers here in the US) recommended 4-6 hours. Users posting on the "big" Bada thread wait anywhere from 6 to 24 hours. I've rolled after about an hour with no problems, but typically wait overnight. Others power down the Bada, but leave the player running in order to hasten the drain. On another thread, the writer informs us that Bada has modified the more recent PH-12 circuitry to include diodes to bleed the capacitors more quickly and prevent undue mosfet failure. A mosfet just went kaput on my unit, but it was due to my carelessly removing tubes in a hurry (without thinking) when our offices were being moved. Anyway, with the Bada in the shop, I may get the signal-coupling capacitors replaced with better ones along with getting the (left) mosfet replaced. Admittedly, it is a pain, though. PAB

Will "better signal coupling caps" resolve the issue?

 

[pataburd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gradofan2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Will "better signal coupling caps" resolve the issue?

GF2,
Better caps won't resolve the issue, but they'll make the Bada sound appreciably better, I'm told. : ) You'd need bleeder resistors, I think, but then you run the risk of compromising the sound along the critical signal path. As mentioned before, Bada has reportedly implemented diodes to address the issue.

However, as long as you wait long enough between tube rolls (12 hours is my conservative recommendation), the mosfets should give you no problems whatsover. But the delay does throw a damper into tube a/b-ing! : )
PAB

 

[pataburd]

Had a wonderful late night session with the Darkvoice (w/2x Svetlana 6H13C and 2x KuhlTube [Sylvania] CAA-6SJ7WGT) and the K501--the best tube combination I've found so far for the AKG.

Please note, however, that the Bada is going out for some V-Cap mods. As good as the 337 sounds, I really miss the Bada! : )

I'd like to do some additional a/b-ing between the DV337 and the modded PH-12.

 

[tourmaline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pataburd /img/forum/go_quote.gif Had a wonderful late night session with the Darkvoice (w/2x Svetlana 6H13C and 2x KuhlTube [Sylvania] CAA-6SJ7WGT) and the K501--the best tube combination I've found so far for the AKG. Please note, however, that the Bada is going out for some V-Cap mods. As good as the 337 sounds, I really miss the Bada! : ) I'd like to do some additional a/b-ing between the DV337 and the modded PH-12.

What is taking so long, pataburd? Still no modded bada?!

 

[pataburd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tourmaline /img/forum/go_quote.gif What is taking so long, pataburd? Still no modded bada?!

Tour,
Hopefully, I'll have the Bada back in a week or two. I'm kind of antsy to try the Beyer DT880/2003 with the Bada, and then sell the Darkvoice and move on with "Head-Fi" life. I'm not sure what is taking so long, besides the modder being very busy wih his regular work.
PAB

 

[Pricklely Peete]

I wonder if a little bleed circuit couldn't be put together for the Bada that won't harm the signal during use ?.....Use a high quality DPDT (or SPST) 250V 5A toggle (on off on) connected to the filter cap reserves on one pole and current hungry super bright LEDs on the other pole. Have the LED out the signal path in one position for the operate/listening mode and in the that path and on for draining the caps of their current when the unit is shut down and you intend to swap tubes...when the LED has used up all the stored energy it will fade and you can now swap tubes without blowing another mosfet. Maybe a an additional period of say 1 hour after that LED has faded would be better ? Just a guess really.

Maybe I'm wrong about this but I have observed my Odyssey SS amp using the LEDs after power down to use up this stored energy, sometimes it takes as long as 45 seconds for the LEDs to fade out ( 120K of filtering).

Is there still stored energy in the caps after the LEDs fade ? Maybe so, I need to measure it with a DMM to know for sure.

Sorry about the slight OT post everyone. Just thought the idea may help the situation.

Peete.