[Chris Ihao]

That's a powered sub, but in that video, the power wasn't plugged. The problem is with the USB enumerator. It's like this: when you plug in a USB device, it takes about 0.5-1 seconds before windows recognize what it is, right? That's the process of 'introducing' itself, something like, 'hi, my name is X, I'm an audio device, etc, I need to draw Y mA of current from you to power myself'. Now this is where the ipad's restriction problem lies. Starting from IOS 4.2, idevices limit the max current that can be drawn through the camera connection kit to 20mA. This is their attempt to preserve battery life. 

When T1 is connected straight to the CCK, the T1 reports that it needs more than the max current allowed by the IOS. In reality, I don't think it will draw a lot of electricity via the USB, because the T1 already got its proprietary PSU. The hub's function is to trick the ipad in the initializing process. Hubs' enumerator always report a very low current draw, thus the IOS will allow it to connect. So in a sense, the hub's function is just to fool the 'gatekeeper' for the real device to gain access. I've successfully ran an E10 olympus, which is a bus-powered dac/amp with this method.

Yeah, strike! I ventured out in the city to see if I could find a cheap, unpowered and small usb 2.0 hub to drive the T1 with the lightning to usb camera connector (iPad and iPhone), and I found one which looked perfect, at only 12 bucks:



I admittedly didnt have a lot of faith, but I am very happy to say it works perfectly! I am now able to use only these components to make it work:



VERY happy about this, and I will get another identical hub as a backup. Unfortunately I think this is a Scandinavian product, so I guess it doesn't help most of you guys, but it's probably nice to get another confirmation that unpowered hubs work just fine (at least some) ✌:tone1:

Thanks for helping out, and cheers!

PS: It also works with other usb devices. Cool. Oh, just one tip. Unplug the camera kit, connect the T1 (or other devices) before plugging the camera kit in (and don't hotswap). Remove the kit before turning off the T1, or the iPad/iPhone may act wonky and freeze.

 

[NCSUZoSo]

Hey guys!  Did yall miss me? 

 
 
Well get this, my TubeMonger socket saver (v1.0) started malfunctioning randomly after 1 year.  I was getting a low level white noise that never goes away. Then occasionally I would start to get popping like the tube was not inserted all the way. I was worried that my Amperex 7308 was starting to die on me or something.  Then I decided to remove the socket saver and plug the tube straight into the T1 and everything went back to normal.  I actually noticed a sparkle come back to the sound that had been removed due some unknown issue.  So then I contacted TubeMonger and they sent me the new version of the socket saver at no cost to me and it works perfectly!  It is always nice to see companies back their products, especially in case like this.  They want me to send them the malfunctioning socket saver so they can study it to see what has happened as this is supposed to be very rare.
 
Oh and I am selling my Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy if anyone is interested

 
I am going back to finish my last 2 years in Electrical Engineering and I need all the cash I can get.  I have way too many high quality tubes already and I think this one is going to go for a nice amount of money considering it is the first one AudioTubes.com has ever seen.
 
I have a new toy on the way!  The $199.99 Fiio X3K that can natively play DSD and 192/24 FLAC/ALAC.  Hell it can even be a USB DAC, so I'm excited to take it for a spin on Monday.
 
Review: http://www.headfonia.com/fiio-x3-second-generation-it-just-got-better-again/

 

[chowmein83]

  Hey guys!  Did yall miss me? 

 
 
Well get this, my TubeMonger socket saver (v1.0) started malfunctioning randomly after 1 year.  I was getting a low level white noise that never goes away. Then occasionally I would start to get popping like the tube was not inserted all the way. I was worried that my Amperex 7308 was starting to die on me or something.  Then I decided to remove the socket saver and plug the tube straight into the T1 and everything went back to normal.  I actually noticed a sparkle come back to the sound that had been removed due some unknown issue.  So then I contacted TubeMonger and they sent me the new version of the socket saver at no cost to me and it works perfectly!  It is always nice to see companies back their products, especially in case like this.  They want me to send them the malfunctioning socket saver so they can study it to see what has happened as this is supposed to be very rare.
 
Oh and I am selling my Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy if anyone is interested

 
I am going back to finish my last 2 years in Electrical Engineering and I need all the cash I can get.  I have way too many high quality tubes already and I think this one is going to go for a nice amount of money considering it is the first one AudioTubes.com has ever seen.
 
I have a new toy on the way!  The $199.99 Fiio X3K that can natively play DSD and 192/24 FLAC/ALAC.  Hell it can even be a USB DAC, so I'm excited to take it for a spin on Monday.
 
Review: http://www.headfonia.com/fiio-x3-second-generation-it-just-got-better-again/

 
Congrats on the purchase of the X3K! I'm actually listening to one of the tour units right now for review, and what I can say is that it sounds very very good - to me, as good as the T1 with upgraded tubes (though the tubes I have aren't nearly as nice as yours). Hope you enjoy it!

 

[NCSUZoSo]

I'm really excited about the X3K, especially with my still new (to me) Shure SE425s.  I am coming from a Cowon iAudio 9+ which could only do 16/44.1 FLAC and the Cowon couldn't really drive my Shures very well so I am ready to be blown away 

 
Should be here Monday according to B&H!

 

[roosteratomic]

HI.
 
my setup is : PC->DAC->amplifier,
 
since i dont use Headphones, is there an option to use the Aune T1 as a DAC only and still get the tube effect ?
 
thanks in advance.

 

[penmarker]

HI.

my setup is : PC->DAC->amplifier,

since i dont use Headphones, is there an option to use the Aune T1 as a DAC only and still get the tube effect ?

thanks in advance.

hi! Yeah that'll actually work. The T1 will be a tube buffered dac for your amplifier.

 

[roosteratomic]

tnx mate.

 

[sonic2911]

I got my T1 Mk2 today, tried 0db gain, but seem too weak for hd600
 
/try 16db gain...the amp is so worse than I expected

 

[hdtv00]

Try 10 that's what I thought was best on my 560's and I'm certain they are harder to drive than hd 600's. What tube are you using, I'll just save ya some time and throw the stock tube in the trash can, it's garbage. And I'm still more than pissed about the 24 bit 32 bit ********.

 

[ice445]

  Excellent. There are a lot of really great tubes in the 6DJ8 family that work with the T1... my personal favourites for the 650's come from from the Heerlen, Holland plant... look for a Philips or Amperex tube with a factory code with a "half triangle" like this:

They are usually marked as 6DJ8/ECC88, or the longer life versions which are E88CC/6922 or E188CC/7308 or CCa. (Usually branded as Philips, Amperex, or Valvo).
 
Other superb tubes are Siemens CCa (grey shield), or if you don't want any extra warmth, try Telefunken tubes.
 
There are also far cheaper tubes, but generally the price of the tube is correlated with demand and availability.

I'm using the Amperex 6DJ8 tube. Wonderful quality. 
 
Anyone ever used an AKG K712 with this DAC?

 

[sonic2911]

still using stock tube, and waiting for gold lion on the way. I just see 16 and 24 bit only, no 32 and run perfectly with 88.2/24 and 94/24

 

[ice445]

  still using stock tube, and waiting for gold lion on the way. I just see 16 and 24 bit only, no 32 and run perfectly with 88.2/24 and 94/24

There is no 32bit as far as I know. I know some versions of the Aune had a bug where 24Bit mode wasn't available, but that's it. Also using such a high sample quality isn't really necessary IMO. Stick with 48Khz

 

[WilliamLeonhart]

Upgraded my Aune T1 mk1 with the Siemens E88CC last night. It's now PERFECT! I use the T1 with my Denon amplifier and JBL speakers, and now they sound closer to the vinyl player that my uncle had years ago (when I was still a child) than anything else! I'm thinking of purchasing Siemens for my other tube amp, the LD I+

 

[sonic2911]

update: tried to low foobar volume to 50%, with 10db gain setting on t1, sound better...so weird, I always set max vol in foobar to get bit perfect and have no problem with another DAC/amps. Do you set 100% volume in foobar guys?

 

[WilliamLeonhart]

It's said that setting the volume of the DAC to max level will cause unnecessary stress...So it's rather wrong to say that setting max vol in foobar will leave you with a 'perfect' SQ. I always set mine (ODAC/Aune) to 90% and leave the volume to the amp. 
 
On gain settings, well, technically higher gains will cause more distortion. Whether these 2 things make a difference to your ears depends... In your case, it seems setting higer gains and turning foobar down is better.