Audio-gd Reference 1 DAC (56 K warning)
Sep 8, 2009 at 8:33 PM Post #1,471 of 2,441
Quote:

Originally Posted by niemion /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Oh, then let me modify the list:

1 x Shark CAST Cable: USD15 (1 pair ,length 1M) (to connect Ref-1 with Phoenix)
1 x Coax cable (to connect the Ref-1 with my motherboard's Coaxial out)
1 x Balanced HD800 cable (to connect to the Phoenix)

That's really all I need beside power cables?



Correct. I'm not sure if you saw earlier, but in the thread I talked about using an 18 ft. Blue Jeans coax cable which works better than anything else I've owned or tried.
 
Sep 8, 2009 at 9:11 PM Post #1,472 of 2,441
My Ref1 showed up so I am hoping when I open it all is cosmetically perfect and functionally perfect.
smily_headphones1.gif
Won't be until tonight though.
 
Sep 8, 2009 at 9:21 PM Post #1,473 of 2,441
Quote:

Originally Posted by IPodPJ /img/forum/go_quote.gif
My Ref1 showed up so I am hoping when I open it all is cosmetically perfect and functionally perfect.
smily_headphones1.gif
Won't be until tonight though.



I think it will sound better, a lot better...

.
 
Sep 8, 2009 at 10:24 PM Post #1,475 of 2,441
Now you get to burn her in all over again .....glad it arrived PJ. Let us know if it's OK (looks, fit and finish etc).

Peete.
 
Sep 8, 2009 at 10:29 PM Post #1,476 of 2,441
Let the flame burn brightly.

And please shoot some quality, high-res, unwrapping pics.
popcorn.gif
 
Sep 8, 2009 at 11:16 PM Post #1,477 of 2,441
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Now you get to burn her in all over again .....glad it arrived PJ. Let us know if it's OK (looks, fit and finish etc).

Peete.



Will do, for sure. I can't say she was ever burned in before really, just burned out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by niemion /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Let the flame burn brightly.

And please shoot some quality, high-res, unwrapping pics.
popcorn.gif



No camera. I can try to see if I can borrow a camera in the next few days to take a better pic of my rack than the one I took with my cell phone.... but unwrapping, sorry, not going to do that. I never understood what the point of that was. It's an inconvenience and it's just foam inside. If something is damaged, I will let you know.
 
Sep 9, 2009 at 5:51 AM Post #1,478 of 2,441
Hey guys, I've been trying to follow comments about this DAC - reviews appear to be generally tremendous. I've swam my way through about 60 pages of the thread, but haven't seemed to find a direct comparison with two of the DACs I'm also eyeing: namely, the Benchmark DAC1Pre and the Lavry DA-11.

I realize I may be making a fool of myself but here goes. How do the above mentioned DACs square up to the Audio-Gd Reference 1? I have COAX out of my desktop's motherboard and have USB as an alternative.
 
Sep 9, 2009 at 6:30 AM Post #1,479 of 2,441
Well my new Ref1 seems to be working good. I haven't tried turning the air or fan on and off yet with it because I've been busy beta testing out the custom cables I have. They need to be revised a little. I'll go into details later after I've done more testing.

I've been A/Bing back and forth between the Ref1 and the Transporter and the Transporter is no slouch. It is very close to the quality of the Ref1. The Ref1 is more detailed and refined, but for an all in one solution the Transporter is one hell of a unit, and it's not even modded. If the Transporter had CAST outputs, it would probably run neck and neck with the Ref1.

I think my biggest issue is with the Phoenix, and while it is a great amp it just doesn't have quite the fidelity of the balanced B22. I am eventually going to have someone build me a balanced B22 with CAST inputs. The Phoenix can probably be modded to such a way that the fidelity is possible to get out of it, and I feel a lot of that probably has to do with the resistors used and it's complex signal path.

For some reason (and I e-mailed Kingwa about this), Audio-gd just can't get it through their heads that we don't want any stickers on the gear. No matter how many times I've told him and you all have told him - over and over and over and over and over and over and over - only put the one sticker on the back of the unit with the serial number - there still remains a sticker on the back right top corner of the unit and needs to be removed with lighter fluid. Additionally on the front of the unit the sticky tape from the label had to be removed with lighter fluid. The big patch of a greasy-looking splotch that takes up the middle 2/3 of the top of the Ref1 (which was also on the last one) easily was removed with lighter fluid.

I don't like having to mention these issues over and over again since his products perform really well, but I don't know what it will take for it to sink in with Kingwa that we don't appreciate this and it can easily be avoided. I specifically told him at least two or three times before he shipped out the replacement Ref1 not to put that sticker on the back corner, and I wasn't surprised when I saw it there. Kingwa, please google "Post-It Notes".

Edit: Kingwa responded with this:

Dear Philip,
Before pack we are use some things to clear the chassis, this things fashion in China and Hongkong, they can clear anythings.
The ticket on rear is seal, in China and Hongkong, all wiring have this, like audio gear, TV, mobile telephone, if the users shatter the seal, the wiring will lose the repair guarantee.
Does in oversea no this rules?
Kingwa

I followed up with this:

Products on the U.S. that have such a thing only have stickers on the inside of the unit. Sometimes there are stickers on the back of the unit but NEVER on the sides or top or anywhere that can be seen from the front. If you need to put stickers you should put something on the inside, and something better quality than paper which is very hard to remove. It ruins the look of the gear.

If you are concerned with people opening the gear, you should XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

(removed so people don't try to bypass this suggestion if he applies it.)
 
Sep 9, 2009 at 6:59 AM Post #1,480 of 2,441
Quote:

Originally Posted by IPodPJ /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Well my new Ref1 seems to be working good. I haven't tried turning the air or fan on and off yet with it because I've been busy beta testing out the custom cables I have. They need to be revised a little. I'll go into details later after I've done more testing.

I've been A/Bing back and forth between the Ref1 and the Transporter and the Transporter is no slouch. It is very close to the quality of the Ref1. The Ref1 is more detailed and refined, but for an all in one solution the Transporter is one hell of a unit, and it's not even modded. If the Transporter had CAST outputs, it would probably run neck and neck with the Ref1.

I think my biggest issue is with the Phoenix, and while it is a great amp it just doesn't have quite the fidelity of the balanced B22. I am eventually going to have someone build me a balanced B22 with CAST inputs. The Phoenix can probably be modded to such a way that the fidelity is possible to get out of it, and I feel a lot of that probably has to do with the resistors used and it's complex signal path.

For some reason (and I e-mailed Kingwa about this), Audio-gd just can't get it through their heads that we don't want any stickers on the gear. No matter how many times I've told him and you all have told him - over and over and over and over and over and over and over - only put the one sticker on the back of the unit with the serial number - there still remains a sticker on the back right top corner of the unit and needs to be removed with lighter fluid. Additionally on the front of the unit the sticky tape from the label had to be removed with lighter fluid. The big patch of a greasy-looking splotch that takes up the middle 2/3 of the top of the Ref1 (which was also on the last one) easily was removed with lighter fluid.

I don't like having to mention these issues over and over again since his products perform really well, but I don't know what it will take for it to sink in with Kingwa that we don't appreciate this and it can easily be avoided. I specifically told him at least two or three times before he shipped out the replacement Ref1 not to put that sticker on the back corner, and I wasn't surprised when I saw it there. Kingwa, please google "Post-It Notes".

Edit: Kingwa responded with this:

Dear Philip,
Before pack we are use some things to clear the chassis, this things fashion in China and Hongkong, they can clear anythings.
The ticket on rear is seal, in China and Hongkong, all wiring have this, like audio gear, TV, mobile telephone, if the users shatter the seal, the wiring will lose the repair guarantee.
Does in oversea no this rules?
Kingwa

I followed up with this:

Products on the U.S. that have such a thing only have stickers on the inside of the unit. Sometimes there are stickers on the back of the unit but NEVER on the sides or top or anywhere that can be seen from the front. If you need to put stickers you should put something on the inside, and something better quality than paper which is very hard to remove. It ruins the look of the gear.

If you are concerned with people opening the gear, you should XXXXXXor inXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX

(removed so people don't try to bypass this suggestion if he applies it.)



That explanation really doesn't hold water. For instance the REF1, all the DSP DACs, and the Compass are made to be mod'd/adjusted by the end user, either by switching DIP switches or playing with HDAMs. If he wants to put anti tamper tapes on entry points he needs to devise a more aesthetic way of doing it. But Like I said, if the webpage has instructions on how to shift gears on the DSP, I don't get that explanation. I'm callin' Bovine Scat here.

.
 
Sep 9, 2009 at 7:06 AM Post #1,481 of 2,441
Quote:

Originally Posted by les_garten /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That explanation really doesn't hold water. For instance the REF1, all the DSP DACs, and the Compass are made to be mod'd/adjusted by the end user, either by switching DIP switches or playing with HDAMs. If he wants to put anti tamper tapes on entry points he needs to devise a more aesthetic way of doing it. But Like I said, if the webpage has instructions on how to shift gears on the DSP, I don't get that explanation. I'm callin' Bovine Scat here.

.



I see your point, Les. Very true. I'll PM you with my suggestion to him.

Reply to my last follow-up:

Dear Philip,
In China, if user open the chassis, the manufacturer can stop offer the guarantee.
I buy mobile,the shop paste a ticket on the mobile outside, and mark on the ticket : if shatter the ticket ,lose the guarantee.
But I usually shatter them as soon as, becasue if I use the mobile, every body can see the ticket.
In China or Hongkong, we must paste a ticket to let users don't open the chassis, because some users are DIY master, they like to replace some parts but some time will kill the gear by wrong operation.
But I will let the workers don't paste the tickets on the gears anymore.
Kingwa
 
Sep 9, 2009 at 7:10 AM Post #1,482 of 2,441
In Asia, everyone seems to be doing that, putting warranty stickers all over electronic products, you can find at least 2-3 screws (let's say out of 5) inside a cell phone covered with stickers.
 
Sep 9, 2009 at 7:27 AM Post #1,484 of 2,441
Quote:

Originally Posted by IPodPJ /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Les,
Here is what he says to your question:

Dear Philip,
Now I have cancel the DIP setting some days ago.
Kingwa



Hmm, it was there when yours and mine were purchased. Also the compass has instructions to open upon arrival and remove the foam shipping piece, in addition to the Jumpers inside.

One way to do it cleanly would be some clear or black elastic/plastic paint. I can also understand if he wants to know if it gets tampered with prior to arrival, ie enroute. Not that I ever believed that's a big concern.

The DSP was never a concern to me because I never saw the point in playing with the settings.
 

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