[FredA]

No, but it's not any harder than removing the top, unscrewing the volume relay modules and swapping out the opamps themselves. It's fiddly more than anything due to their placement.

Thanks to you guys. I love these tweaks. I will get both opamps and give them a try.

 

[DaaDaa]

It's a dead-neutral amp, that's for sure. Some people like their gear to give a meaty presentation -- I certainly get that, and I think that's what drove those opinions. With the NFB-1AMP I like the results with the DC servo mod, where you replace the DC servo opamps with Muses 8920. It sounds a bit more dynamic then. If you otherwise want something a bit more interesting-sounding, getting a tube amp would be a better option. It'd be interesting to try an R2R 1 + Mjolnir combo (with tubes), for example.

i want tp do this mod. is this the opamp u r referring to?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NJR/MUSES8920E?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxdzBvM0rKcU4x1YKScg3os20guizpIcY=

and if it is how many of them are there? how many should i buy?

 

[cubed4life]

A few months back I ordered the muses opamps to do this mod. I didn't go through with the swap because the originals looked soldered in and didn't want to mess with them. Was I wrong in that they are soldered?

 

[DaaDaa]

lol nobody has actually done the modtoi know how many opamps i need to buy? persumabely 2?

 

[Currawong]

You need the DIP8 version, which goes into sockets, not what you linked to. I'd honestly say that if you don't know what you're doing, not to do it.

 

[borrego]

A few months back I ordered the muses opamps to do this mod. I didn't go through with the swap because the originals looked soldered in and didn't want to mess with them. Was I wrong in that they are soldered?

Hmm, it'd be better checking if the opamps are still sitting on DIP8 sockets first. audio-gd might have changed to direct soldering.

 

[Currawong]

Kingwa might have switched to soldering them. He did in the largest components. I've already suggested to him that he use the Muses instead.

 

[xenithon]

Quick question around certain features of ladder DACs. I understand that in the higher end units like the R2R-1 they utilize linear compensation. Is this one of the differentiators that make them “clearer” and more “open” than entry level ladder DACs, and if so, does that come at the cost of some warmth / thickness / musicality?

 

[FredA]

Quick question around certain features of ladder DACs. I understand that in the higher end units like the R2R-1 they utilize linear compensation. Is this one of the differentiators that make them “clearer” and more “open” than entry level ladder DACs, and if so, does that come at the cost of some warmth / thickness / musicality?

They all use compensation. The thickness comes from the firmware and output stages IMO. All is relative however, i would not call any of the audio-gd dacs thick. They work best with neutral setups.

 

[FredA]

Kingwa might have switched to soldering them. He did in the largest components. I've already suggested to him that he use the Muses instead.

Hopefully, mine is still on sockets, it should as it is from February 2017. I have ordered the 2132p to start with.

 

[Toni-Mang]

I'm stefan from germany, first post here....silent and thankfull reader, with a bad english My r2r 1 has arrived two weeks ago and it sounds perfect, the imaging and focus is great. The most benefit is imho the tonality and the neutral reproduction of an instrument sound, like an acoustic guitar i.e.. compare to my sabre dac, or the cambridge magic plus, the highs are smoother, coupled on the image and more real in my opinion. Thank you very much for the display tip, got here. What i'm not sure about is the jumper setting, because the "no jumper" nos sound seems to be right. I bought the dac for the nos ladder technology and im very happy with the result, under consideration of the price...but no idea how the pll setting affectd the signal and what changes the mode 1-3 technical. Im very happy, to have a dac without a digital filter (touching maybe the phase and the time of the signal)....nos sounds right, even with old lofi redbook...
It is long ago that i had so much fun listen complete cd's..
Acss connected to the master 1, nos, via usb, no upsampling/oversampling.

 

[FredA]

I'm stefan from germany, first post here....silent and thankfull reader, with a bad english My r2r 1 has arrived two weeks ago and it sounds perfect, the imaging and focus is great. The most benefit is imho the tonality and the neutral reproduction of an instrument sound, like an acoustic guitar i.e.. compare to my sabre dac, or the cambridge magic plus, the highs are smoother, coupled on the image and more real in my opinion. Thank you very much for the display tip, got here. What i'm not sure about is the jumper setting, because the "no jumper" nos sound seems to be right. I bought the dac for the nos ladder technology and im very happy with the result, under consideration of the price...but no idea how the pll setting affectd the signal and what changes the mode 1-3 technical. Im very happy, to have a dac without a digital filter (touching maybe the phase and the time of the signal)....nos sounds right, even with old lofi redbook...
It is long ago that i had so much fun listen complete cd's..
Acss connected to the master 1, nos, via usb, no upsampling/oversampling.

I think you get the nos 3 mode. It's my favorite nos mode with the r2r-7. It's great that you have the master-1 to pair with it. You get even better sound than with the nfb-1amp. I think with the r2r-1, it's worth having a top notch pre. It's early to try the jumpers. Not worth doing before 500 hours IMO.

 

[Toni-Mang]

thank you for your Reply, the dutch ditributor wrote me:
"Each NOS mode is a different asynchronous output mode:
1 = Mode 1 is fastest asynchronous process
2 = Mode 2 is FIFO mode process
3 = Mode 3 is ultra high speed process are 3 NOS modes."
And that there is a Preference for Mode 3.
But as you mentioned, to early to check..anyway, the Display Jumper was worth open the top plate.

 

[FredA]

thank you for your Reply, the dutch ditributor wrote me:
"Each NOS mode is a different asynchronous output mode:
1 = Mode 1 is fastest asynchronous process
2 = Mode 2 is FIFO mode process
3 = Mode 3 is ultra high speed process are 3 NOS modes."
And that there is a Preference for Mode 3.
But as you mentioned, to early to check..anyway, the Display Jumper was worth open the top plate.

Yes. And you get to see the inside. Nice.

 

[alxw0w]

It's a dead-neutral amp, that's for sure. Some people like their gear to give a meaty presentation -- I certainly get that, and I think that's what drove those opinions. With the NFB-1AMP I like the results with the DC servo mod, where you replace the DC servo opamps with Muses 8920. It sounds a bit more dynamic then. If you otherwise want something a bit more interesting-sounding, getting a tube amp would be a better option. It'd be interesting to try an R2R 1 + Mjolnir combo (with tubes), for example.

Thats it. It's very very flat amp. No coloration at all. Somebody likes it somebody doesn't. It's like currawong said in his review "wire with gain".
It won't change sound of your setup. It's like you can change your sound with headphones or dac not with this amp. Nfb 1 will give you only gain to run headphones. The clarity the transparency is really good.