[mtoc]

Folks! You guys have to check NOS 11 out, something is different, THD+N is -109 dB, it's pretty pretty good compared with previous AGD stuff.

 

[somestranger26]

  Okay, so below is my current chain.  I'm curious to see what some recommendations are for upgrades and what I can expect for a sound difference.
 
Laptop w/ Tidal playing through Hifi Cable ASIO bridge -> Supra USB Cable -> ifi iUSB3.0 -> Supra USB Cable -> M11 (Amanero USB - factory settings) -> Balanced high-end Audeze cable (not the black rubber one) -> LCD-4 200 ohm
 
It sounds amazing, but I'll forever be afflicted with wanting more and better.  Based on what I'm reading, I'm guessing my best bang-for-the-buck upgrade would be an external USB interface (via I2S - I have the factory installed HDMI input to replace the Ethernet port).  Looks like there are some new cards (X1 or something) that look promising.  Any thoughts?  Thanks!

Get a Singxer F-1 ($200) and be done with it. Even if you use it via RCA it blows the Amanero out of the water. There's also a boxed version with I2S for $400 called the SU-1 but we haven't seen any comparisons with the F-1 yet. The F-1 might be better if you feed it with a good linear power supply. I bought a Teralink DC30W R-core linear power supply and it made a nice improvement to the F-1 which I'm using with internally wired I2S.
 
www.head-fi.org/t/803111/xmos-xu208-usb-bridges-the-latest-gen-has-arrived/
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SINGXER-F-1-XMOS-USB-digital-interface-board-XU208-chip-High-end-U8-upgraded-version/32648384788.html

 

[mtoc]

bimmer, tell us something about nos11

 

[bimmer100]

bimmer, tell us something about nos11

My m11 is about to arrive at audio-gd in a day. Still in customs. But expect it there for another week before it ships back to me. I will post my thoughts once I've had time to listen to it.
I also will have had mods done too. Occ silver wire, eizz connectors all around. At some point I'm trying to figure on what USB I will use in it. I want to upgrade the amanero, but I honestly don't think there is much difference between all USB devices. I've tried sooooo many. I will post photos of the inside and out and full list of details of each mod.
USB module may be upgraded later, I'm not sold on the f1 singxer as its too darn large. Otherwise I would likely try it, yet my experience with USB is the all basically sound pretty similar with some moderate changes. I want to find something that can be powered off onboard power if so. I'm upset the diyinhk 768khz xu216 can't be powered (800ma!!!) by onboard psu. Kingwa confirmed its not possible, the r-core trafo's would require too much extra power. I have considered installing a DC input for external power to the USB. That's always a possibility. I'm not going to spend a ton of money on Ethernet or aoip. Too darn pricey. I plan to use the lh labs source to feed this via i2s. It's going to be my main source.

I realize the specs on paper for the nos11 look less impressive than the m11. I strongly believe in listen first before passing judgement.

 

[Liu Junyuan]

My m11 is about to arrive at audio-gd in a day. Still in customs. But expect it there for another week before it ships back to me. I will post my thoughts once I've had time to listen to it.
I also will have had mods done too. Occ silver wire, eizz connectors all around. At some point I'm trying to figure on what USB I will use in it. I want to upgrade the amanero, but I honestly don't think there is much difference between all USB devices. I've tried sooooo many. I will post photos of the inside and out and full list of details of each mod.
USB module may be upgraded later, I'm not sold on the f1 singxer as its too darn large. Otherwise I would likely try it, yet my experience with USB is the all basically sound pretty similar with some moderate changes. I want to find something that can be powered off onboard power if so. I'm upset the diyinhk 768khz xu216 can't be powered (800ma!!!) by onboard psu. Kingwa confirmed its not possible, the r-core trafo's would require too much extra power. I have considered installing a DC input for external power to the USB. That's always a possibility. I'm not going to spend a ton of money on Ethernet or aoip. Too darn pricey. I plan to use the lh labs source to feed this via i2s. It's going to be my main source.

I realize the specs on paper for the nos11 look less impressive than the m11. I strongly believe in listen first before passing judgement.

Have you happened to try the Mutec MC-3+USB? Prior to this, any USB decrapifier differences I heard were subtle. It isn't cheap but is extremely effective as a bridge. The Mutec 1.2 is also fantastic and would probably be the better value.

Interested in hearing more about NOS-11.

 

[bimmer100]

Have you happened to try the Mutec MC-3+USB? Prior to this, any USB decrapifier differences I heard were subtle. It isn't cheap but is extremely effective as a bridge. The Mutec 1.2 is also fantastic and would probably be the better value.

Interested in hearing more about NOS-11.

I'm familiar with the mutec mc-3+ USB. I have two friends who have one. I haven't listened to one hooked up to my gear, but one says it's absolutely amazing and way better than his DIYinhk pro3a. The other says it's a little improvement over his diyinhk pro3A. Funny they had the same ddc. Which is pretty good overall imho. But for the price of the mutec mc-3+USB, I've got to say I can justify it until I hear it on my own system and see if it's subtle or dramatic.

I find spending money on a new pair of headphones will give a better ROI. But that's not saying i won't own a mc-3+USB. I just have my money wrapped up in my dual dam1021 soekris project. once that's done, we shall see.

I'm hoping one friend will let me borrow his mutec for a week. (Hope he reads this... Hahaha)

 

[Articnoise]

My m11 is about to arrive at audio-gd in a day. Still in customs. But expect it there for another week before it ships back to me. I will post my thoughts once I've had time to listen to it.
I also will have had mods done too. Occ silver wire, eizz connectors all around. At some point I'm trying to figure on what USB I will use in it. I want to upgrade the amanero, but I honestly don't think there is much difference between all USB devices. I've tried sooooo many. I will post photos of the inside and out and full list of details of each mod.
USB module may be upgraded later, I'm not sold on the f1 singxer as its too darn large. Otherwise I would likely try it, yet my experience with USB is the all basically sound pretty similar with some moderate changes. I want to find something that can be powered off onboard power if so. I'm upset the diyinhk 768khz xu216 can't be powered (800ma!!!) by onboard psu. Kingwa confirmed its not possible, the r-core trafo's would require too much extra power. I have considered installing a DC input for external power to the USB. That's always a possibility. I'm not going to spend a ton of money on Ethernet or aoip. Too darn pricey. I plan to use the lh labs source to feed this via i2s. It's going to be my main source.

I realize the specs on paper for the nos11 look less impressive than the m11. I strongly believe in listen first before passing judgement.

 

I have ordered a Sonore microRendu networked audio adapter and are planning to set it up as a NAA. It will be shipped in the end of June, so I can’t personally say how it sounds like but all reports are very positive.

 

http://www.microrendu.sonore.us/

 

[defbear]

After reading @bimmer100 's comments I bought an Intona Industrial USB Isolator. Wow! It really works. A very noticible, buzzword compliant, improvement in sound. Can't do,without it. I have the Upton Audio Regen which didn't do a thing for me. Quite surprised actually. This is with a MacBook Pro into Master 11 or Bimby into a microZOTL 2.

 

[munce31]

Which version of the intonation did you get?

I'm interested in one of these, but not sure if the industrial version is worth the extra.

EDIT: didn't read that you have the industrial version.

 

[rigo]

Which version of the intonation did you get?

I'm interested in one of these, but not sure if the industrial version is worth the extra.

EDIT: didn't read that you have the industrial version.

Ordered the industrial version a few days ago. Eager to test out. What USB cables are people using?

 

[defbear]

Ordered the industrial version a few days ago. Eager to test out. What USB cables are people using?

Supra Made in Sweden. Buy them on ebay from Zendada. I use their Power Block and power cables too. My PYST USB cables from Schiit work just fine though.

 

[borrego]

For those who want to replace the amanero USB module of their audio-gd DAC, or to use fancy heavy gauge "audiophile" USB cable, or to buy the industry version of the Intona isolator, I have one suggestion: To replace the USB 2.0 Type B socket on the amanero module with a better part. It is a $3 dollar part.
 
My story:
In last November, I had my audio-gd Reference 5.32 sent back to audio-gd having the amanero USB upgrade done. Upon receiving the Reference 5.32 DAC back, I found the USB cable connection to the brand new amanero module was "loose". I could only have my computer detected the amanero successfully connection after multiple cable insertions and "hard pressing" the cable to the socket. At that time I thought of the USB Type B socket on the amanero module was kind of faulty, as I was using the same proper but inexpensive Dell printer USB cable I previously found no problem with. Anyway I decided not sending back the Reference 5.32 back to audio-gd immediately as I could keep the USB connection by "hard pressing" and "not touching afterwards"
 
Then after 5 months of usage, the USB socket on the amanero module finally gave up and cannot give connection no matter how hard I pressed in the cable after insertion. After contacting audio-gd, I packed up the Reference 5.32 and sent it back to audio-gd for repairing. As I suspected a faulty USB socket was the origin of the malfunction, I bought the best USB 2.0 Type B socket I could find from element14, a part which support 1.5A current draw compare to the typical 1A current draw, and sent it together with my Reference 5.32 to audio-gd to have them installed.
 
After inspection, audio-gd told me the amanero module has died and a new one needed to be installed. They told me loose insertion of USB cable (could be caused by poor quality USB cable) could have damaged the amanero module. Without charging me additional, audio-gd installed a new amanero module and also had my "upgraded" USB Type B socket installed on it.
 
After receiving back my repaired Reference 5.32, I had my computer detected the amanero module the first try I inserted the cable (the same Dell printer USB cable I used), and found no "loose connection" problem ever since.
 
And I found sound quality improved.
 
It could be the previous faulty USB socket sounded bad so I could feel improved sound quality after repairing. But my observation is the 4 tiny dinky spring contact plates in the USB Type B socket is obviously the weakest link and bottleneck of the USB connection chain.
 
I also suspect the reason of the industrial version of the Intona would sounds better than the standard version was actually down to fact that it has more sturdy USB sockets.
 
What I want to say is if anyone would bother taking up soldering iron replacing the amanero module with better XMOS XU208 part, one might consider also installing an "industrial" or "high current" USB Type B socket as well to give a a try. It is just a $3 part anyway.

 

[bimmer100]

For those who want to replace the amanero USB module of their audio-gd DAC, or to use fancy heavy gauge "audiophile" USB cable, or to buy the industry version of the Intona isolator, I have one suggestion: To replace the USB 2.0 Type B socket on the amanero module with a better part. It is a $3 dollar part.

My story:
In last November, I had my audio-gd Reference 5.32 sent back to audio-gd having the amanero USB upgrade done. Upon receiving the Reference 5.32 DAC back, I found the USB cable connection to the brand new amanero module was "loose". I could only have my computer detected the amanero successfully connection after multiple cable insertions and "hard pressing" the cable to the socket. At that time I thought of the USB Type B socket on the amanero module was kind of faulty, as I was using the same proper but inexpensive Dell printer USB cable I previously found no problem with. Anyway I decided not sending back the Reference 5.32 back to audio-gd immediately as I could keep the USB connection by "hard pressing" and "not touching afterwards"

Then after 5 months of usage, the USB socket on the amanero module finally gave up and cannot give connection no matter how hard I pressed in the cable after insertion. After contacting audio-gd, I packed up the Reference 5.32 and sent it back to audio-gd for repairing. As I suspected a faulty USB socket was the origin of the malfunction, I bought the best USB 2.0 Type B socket I could find from element14, a part which support 1.5A current draw compare to the typical 1A current draw, and sent it together with my Reference 5.32 to audio-gd to have them installed.

After inspection, audio-gd told me the amanero module has died and a new one needed to be installed. They told me loose insertion of USB cable (could be caused by poor quality USB cable) could have damaged the amanero module. Without charging me additional, audio-gd installed a new amanero module and also had my "upgraded" USB Type B socket installed on it.

After receiving back my repaired Reference 5.32, I had my computer detected the amanero module the first try I inserted the cable (the same Dell printer USB cable I used), and found no "loose connection" problem ever since.

And I found sound quality improved.

It could be the previous faulty USB socket sounded bad so I could feel improved sound quality after repairing. But my observation is the 4 tiny dinky spring contact plates in the USB Type B socket is obviously the weakest link and bottleneck of the USB connection chain.

I also suspect the reason of the industrial version of the Intona would sounds better than the standard version was actually down to fact that it has more sturdy USB sockets.

What I want to say is if anyone would bother taking up soldering iron replacing the amanero module with better XMOS XU208 part, one might consider also installing an "industrial" or "high current" USB Type B socket as well to give a a try. It is just a $3 part anyway.

I know for fact there is more to the intona than just its industrial USB type b port. But you are into something. They tighter clamp is better! Also use deoxit gold!
But it's funny I read this now. I'm replacing my USB type b on my USB modules with the industrial connectors. They are on mouser for cheap. Two companies make them that I know of.
Too bad they don't have gold or rhodium plating
Rhodium only because gold is likely to wear off real quick with its tight clamping force. Take note the wear it will have on your USB cables. Don't unplug as often if you can help it!

 

[borrego]

I know for fact there is more to the intona than just its industrial USB type b port. But you are into something. They tighter clamp is better! Also use deoxit gold!
But it's funny I read this now. I'm replacing my USB type b on my USB modules with the industrial connectors. They are on mouser for cheap. Two companies make them that I know of.
Too bad they don't have gold or rhodium plating

Rhodium only because gold is likely to wear off real quick with its tight clamping force. Take note the wear it will have on your USB cables. Don't unplug as often if you can help it!

 
I actually bought 2 different types of USB Type B sockets from element14: the orange color industrial type with tight cable grip, and a "normal" white color type but with its spec sheet saying 1.5A current support (the other all says 1A current support). Upon receiving, I actually found the contact spring plates of the 1.5A support model beefier/thicker, so I had the normal 1.5A support socket installed instead of the orange color industrial type.
 
If you use "audiophile" heavy USB cable, the industrial type might have the advantage.

 

[smodtactical]

Has anyone heard the M11 vs the discrete M7+M9 ? Im just curious. If they really are similar in sound quality then the M11 is an incredible value... but I just find it hard to believe that the combo is even close to the discrete units.