[robertsong]

   
 

also...get some bypass caps to solder to the bottom of the boards...this can be done with a sra low temp solder past and hot air tool set to exactly 170C
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GRM2195C1H103FA01D/490-8295-1-ND/4380589
 
these bypass caps are very nice
 
on the bottom of the rhea boards are two contacts, add approx 1mm square of paste per contact, use tweezers to drop the murata cap onto the two contacts perfectly centered. use the heat gun to flow the solder, once the solder turns to shiny silver, let cool for about 20-30sec. clean left over flux with pure 99.5% alcohol. 
SRA low temp solder can be found on amazon. its awesome stuff, I do all oscillators with this stuff. since they are super sensitive to heat...except those huge oscillators.... 
 

 
 
Thanks. Are the bypass caps mandatory? I don't have the tools to accomplish that. Wouldn't Twisted Pear add these on?

 

[FredA]

Just buy them preassembled!

 

[COLOR=FF4400]http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/cronus.aspx[/COLOR]

22.5792MHz Rhea Module




24.5764MHz Rhea Module

[COLOR=485047]

$35.00 USD
	$35.00 USD

[COLOR=485047] [/COLOR][COLOR=485047] [/COLOR] [COLOR=485047] [/COLOR][COLOR=485047] [/COLOR][COLOR=485047] [/COLOR]

[/color]


one of each of these. 


again, mod at your own risk!

be sure to use mill-Max dip14 sockets... or the Aries brand is pretty good too.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/110-43-314-10-001000/ED90428-ND/2057566
or
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/crystals-and-oscillators/sockets-and-insulators/853135?k=14-dip%20socket

cheapo ones are not ideal for the breeze pcb. just my opinion.



also...get some bypass caps to solder to the bottom of the boards...this can be done with a sra low temp solder past and hot air tool set to exactly 170C
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GRM2195C1H103FA01D/490-8295-1-ND/4380589

these bypass caps are very nice

on the bottom of the rhea boards are two contacts, add approx 1mm square of paste per contact, use tweezers to drop the murata cap onto the two contacts perfectly centered. use the heat gun to flow the solder, once the solder turns to shiny silver, let cool for about 20-30sec. clean left over flux with pure 99.5% alcohol. 
SRA low temp solder can be found on amazon. its awesome stuff, I do all oscillators with this stuff. since they are super sensitive to heat...except those huge oscillators.... 

http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Temperature-Lead-Solder-Paste/dp/B005C6H26C

consider this to see well
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multi-Power-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=pd_sim_469_38?ie=UTF8&dpID=41clz7xpHNL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KF165K5Y22J42342SC1

a good soldering set with hot air gun is needed...
this one is quite nice
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-968A-Digital-Rework-Station/dp/B006FA481G/ref=pd_sim_469_26?ie=UTF8&dpID=51LRVDv25ZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KF165K5Y22J42342SC1

i have this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Digital-Rework-Station-Pre-heater/dp/B00GSCTSMA/ref=pd_sim_469_90?ie=UTF8&dpID=51tsi-BPR7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KF165K5Y22J42342SC1

and this is a cheaper one that would likely work well
http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-REWORK-SOLDERING-IRON-STATION/dp/B004ZB9D4O/ref=pd_sim_469_14?ie=UTF8&dpID=41MROSxfzBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KF165K5Y22J42342SC1

These clock boards would be a direct fit to mod the breeze without any possible overheating the clock, are they? If so, just found my next upgrade.

 

[bimmer100]

   
 
Thanks. Are the bypass caps mandatory? I don't have the tools to accomplish that. Wouldn't Twisted Pear add these on?

 
 
not mandatory but highly recommended. Fortunately the 957's have their own bypass caps under the metal cover. yet it's a bit better to add better performance ones as well. Hence why they have the option. You can use them without.

 

[FredA]

not mandatory but highly recommended. Fortunately the 957's have their own bypass caps under the metal cover. yet it's a bit better to add better performance ones as well. Hence why they have the option. You can use them without.

Great find!

Any specific reason to add a socket, besides being able to replace the oscillators easilly? Kingwa solders his directly, supposed to be better for performance.

 

[bimmer100]

Great find!

Any specific reason to add a socket, besides being able to replace the oscillators easilly? Kingwa solders his diectly, supposed to be better for performance.

He does that so they don't get dislodged in shipping mainly.

But I wouldn't risk adding heat to the crystal by soldering it. It's your call.
I would highly recommend using the socket like I said. Plus you can swap back to standard crystals and compare results easily!!!

 

[FredA]

He does that so they don't get dislodged in shipping mainly.

But I wouldn't risk adding heat to the crystal by soldering it. It's your call.
I would highly recommend using the socket like I said. Plus you can swap back to standard crystals and compare results easily!!!

Thanks. I will follow your advice. I will order the 2 boards before they run out of stock and keep them for later. I am not in a rush.

 

[robertsong]

   
 
not mandatory but highly recommended. Fortunately the 957's have their own bypass caps under the metal cover. yet it's a bit better to add better performance ones as well. Hence why they have the option. You can use them without.

 
Ok, do you happen to know how they add better performance? Does the sound actually change slightly? Any reason to NOT use them w/o adding on bypass caps?
 
Guess I can go back to the original gold clocks if I need to.
 
Where did you get this info, btw?
 
Thanks!

 

[FredA]

Ok, do you happen to know how they add better performance? Does the sound actually change slightly? Any reason to NOT use them w/o adding on bypass caps?

Guess I can go back to the original gold clocks if I need to.

Where did you get this info, btw?

Thanks!

Just my 2 cents, it's recommended by the clock maker when the distance to the supply exceeds some value, if my memory does not play me tricks. It's a way to garantee a constant dc value to power the clock. I don't think it's critical with the breeze, the regulators are close by. I won't use any. Bimmer could have different opinion however.

I have ordered 2 clock boards last night.

 

[bimmer100]

   
Ok, do you happen to know how they add better performance? Does the sound actually change slightly? Any reason to NOT use them w/o adding on bypass caps?
 
Guess I can go back to the original gold clocks if I need to.
 
Where did you get this info, btw?
 
Thanks!

I have just talked with a bunch of different people in the DIY community, and on guy in particular commended my choice for the murata's I chose as being quite good!
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GRM2195C1H103FA01D/490-8295-1-ND/4380589
 
they are only 65cents each. You can solder them by hand if you'd like. not terribly difficult if you have a steady hand. I just prefer hot air tool. Super fast and easy.
 
stick to low temp solder. I do most things around 170C if possible. Clocks are so darn sensitive. they have a max 240C for 10sec and they are toast. 
look at the reflow specs of each clock. They are sensitive to heat.
 
even the 957's if you're not careful.

 

[Luckbad]

Not surprised this thing rocks.

 

[robertsong]

   
stick to low temp solder. I do most things around 170C if possible. Clocks are so darn sensitive. they have a max 240C for 10sec and they are toast. 
look at the reflow specs of each clock. They are sensitive to heat.
 
even the 957's if you're not careful.

 
Yeah, doesn't seem like it's worth the risk. Especially if it's not even necessary (Ie. no sound improvement). I'm still not clear what this extra bypass cap actually does.

 

[FredA]

Yeah, doesn't seem like it's worth the risk. Especially if it's not even necessary (Ie. no sound improvement). I'm still not clear what this extra bypass cap actually does.

It can help filter some noise. In the case of the breeze, there are excellent regulators less than two inches away. Plus there are no bypass in the first place, So, whatever improvement the crystek bring, you should be able to obtain it. The bypass could be a bonus, not sure.

Noise in the clock psu will induce jitter. It is as important to have a noise-free supply than it is to have a stable oscillator.

Hey Bimmer, should we order pins for the rhea boards, or do they come with them? Because there is no picture of this product the the twistedpear site,

 

[robertsong]

It can help filter some noise. In the case of the breeze, there are excellent regulators less than two inches away. Plus there are no bypass in the first place, So, whatever improvement the crystek bring, you should be able to obtain it. The bypass could be a bonus, not sure.

Noise in the clock psu will induce jitter. It is as important to have a noise-free supply than it is to have a stable oscillator.
 

 
 
Thanks for the info. Hopefully these expensive clocks will provide some sound improvement over the stock Chinese clocks (which are obviously pretty good).

 

[bimmer100]

It can help filter some noise. In the case of the breeze, there are excellent regulators less than two inches away. Plus there are no bypass in the first place, So, whatever improvement the crystek bring, you should be able to obtain it. The bypass could be a bonus, not sure.

Noise in the clock psu will induce jitter. It is as important to have a noise-free supply than it is to have a stable oscillator.

Hey Bimmer, should we order pins for the rhea boards, or do they come with them? Because there is no picture of this product the the twistedpear site,

pin's are already installed. they come mounted in foam cubes when they ship. I have about 4-6 of the basic boards left too. no crystal.
 
I considered trying to mount some ndk's to these boards next. I have a few on order and will see if I can get them to work. 
might use the extra ones to mount the original crystals and compare all three types of crystals.

 

[FredA]

pin's are already installed. they come mounted in foam cubes when they ship. I have about 4-6 of the basic boards left too. no crystal.

I considered trying to mount some ndk's to these boards next. I have a few on order and will see if I can get them to work. 
might use the extra ones to mount the original crystals and compare all three types of crystals.

Thanks to you. This mod should be quite easy. I will try to save the orginal oscillators, that should be a bit tricky. I will alternate the de-soldering between the two txcos, and try to drain the heat somehow.