[Oepsie]

I have found that a Jitterbug filter (which is a passive filter) attached to my computer's usb output is an exception and improves results. It increases resolution instead of rounding off detail. I do not know why it works but it does.. It is the only component between my computer and DI-20HE which makes things better and not worse for me. And the best news is it costs around $50!!! There is perhaps a small trade off in that focus is noticeably improved at the cost of a bit of soundstage contraction- but I am happy with the tradeoff....

The jitterbug is interesting. With another DDC, it improved the sound from my laptop in the same way that you describe. But when switching to a SoTM streamer with a Paul Hynes LPS, it had a negative effect and had distinct veil effect on the sound. In my experience, it depends on the streamer/pc used.

A friend of mine had similar experiences with an Innous streamer and ended up selling both his jitterbug and iso regen.

Regarding the vbus, the sbooster vbus2 works for me (and as I understand it, it disconnects the vbus of the usb signal) - gives a noticeable improvement to naturalness of the sound/especially with instruments - adds more 'feeling' to the sound with a little less edge - especially with classical music, the difference is significant. I'm very happy with my usb cable which already has power line separated from signal line, but still disconnecting the vbus gives an improvement.

 

[Pappas3278]

I have actually been getting FANTASTIC results with the old Schiit Wyrd USB 'decrapifier' between my PC and the DI-20. I used to go with that plus the iFi iPurifier 2 USB together, but since the 4.07 firmware update I tested it again and noticed it sounds more pure & robust with only the Wyrd. It really does a great job cleaning up the sound from the PC. It's a discontinued item though you can probably find one used for very cheap.

I have a Schiit Wyrd between my MacMini and DI-20 and experience great results also.

 

[FredA]

Hi guys.

Anyone running the di20 or He with an old M7 (not singularity)? if so, how much of an upgrade?

Also, anyone with hands on with the supra hdmi cable?

 

[Donnyhifi]

Hi guys.

Anyone running the di20 or He with an old M7 (not singularity)? if so, how much of an upgrade?

Also, anyone with hands on with the supra hdmi cable?

Hi Fred, I am using a very old AGD M7(used to be a Ref 7.1 which was converted to an M7). I upgraded the M7 FPGA firmware(to V7) and installed an HDMI I2S interface which is now connected to the DI-20(firmware V4.07) using a Wireworld Ultraviolet 6 0.3M HDMI cable.

Overall the difference over my previous DDC(Singxer SU-1) is quite significant. Many factors have improved including overall speed, soundstage depth and width, resolution and tighter bass(without sacrificing heft) and a slightly more black background. The DAC still retains much of the AGD warmth which allows it to hold on to that meaty midrange character but with a greater sense of clarity and veil being lifted without adding harshness.

Past DDCs used I felt colored the sound of the M7 with Singxer SU-1 being a small improvement over previously used DDC.
The DI-20 though feels like I have new DAC!!!

Kingwa's customer service is excellent as well, the input buttons on the front panel were failing and he sent me a new board free of charge along with the DI-20 I purchased.

I haven't compared with the newer DACs in the market but my current setup sounds quite satisfying. I might go to one of the local shops and check out the Chord Dave and see how it compares.

 

[FredA]

Hi Fred, I am using a very old AGD M7(used to be a Ref 7.1 which was converted to an M7). I upgraded the M7 FPGA firmware(to V7) and installed an HDMI I2S interface which is now connected to the DI-20(firmware V4.07) using a Wireworld Ultraviolet 6 0.3M HDMI cable.

Overall the difference over my previous DDC(Singxer SU-1) is quite significant. Many factors have improved including overall speed, soundstage depth and width, resolution and tighter bass(without sacrificing heft) and a slightly more black background. The DAC still retains much of the AGD warmth which allows it to hold on to that meaty midrange character but with a greater sense of clarity and veil being lifted without adding harshness.

Past DDCs used I felt colored the sound of the M7 with Singxer SU-1 being a small improvement over previously used DDC.
The DI-20 though feels like I have new DAC!!!

Kingwa's customer service is excellent as well, the input buttons on the front panel were failing and he sent me a new board free of charge along with the DI-20 I purchased.

I haven't compared with the newer DACs in the market but my current setup sounds quite satisfying. I might go to one of the local shops and check out the Chord Dave and see how it compares.

Thanks very much!

 

[interweb-tech]

Took the plunge and ordered a DI-20HE Accusilicon 90/98 from Audio-gd and a Wireworld Chroma 7 HDMI Cable (0.6 meter) from Amazon. Going to pair it with my Audio-gd R-27 (2020 Full upgrade).

 

[DecentLevi]

Took the plunge and ordered a DI-20HE Accusilicon 90/98 from Audio-gd and a Wireworld Chroma 7 HDMI Cable (0.6 meter) from Amazon. Going to pair it with my Audio-gd R-27 (2020 Full upgrade).

Interesting, we live near (Seattle here, albeit an insane time period which I pray to survive!!!). I got the same DI-20 a few months ago and patience is the key. It seems to sound better at around 200 hours and really open up around 500 hrs. with music burning in. But for me the biggest difference was after upgrading to the recent firmware v4.07. You could ask Kingwa if that's the one it ships with already, if not you're gonna need a special Astralabs device and good PC skills to manually upgrade it.

I'm still an experiencing an occasional issue with loud static noise interjected with this version, and am willing to deal with it as a trade off for much better sound when its' behaving. FWIW though I seem to be the only one to experience this issue yet and you may very well be just fine using an HDMI output vs. my using the RCA S/PDIF socket. I took some time reverting to / from / to the newest version again and the fault is related to the firmware, and I made Kingwa aware of it and he said he'll try to release a fixed firmware version.

 

[PLGA]

Interesting, we live near (Seattle here, albeit an insane time period which I pray to survive!!!). I got the same DI-20 a few months ago and patience is the key. It seems to sound better at around 200 hours and really open up around 500 hrs. with music burning in. But for me the biggest difference was after upgrading to the recent firmware v4.07. You could ask Kingwa if that's the one it ships with already, if not you're gonna need a special Astralabs device and good PC skills to manually upgrade it.

I'm still an experiencing an occasional issue with loud static noise interjected with this version, and am willing to deal with it as a trade off for much better sound when its' behaving. FWIW though I seem to be the only one to experience this issue yet and you may very well be just fine using an HDMI output vs. my using the RCA S/PDIF socket. I took some time reverting to / from / to the newest version again and the fault is related to the firmware, and I made Kingwa aware of it and he said he'll try to release a fixed firmware version.

I have occasionally loud static noise, either with AES/EBU or I2S output from DI-20.
I believe is something related with low internet bandwith as I still don't have fiber and I'm using ADSL.
The problem also happened, and more often, with my Gustard U16.
It happens when I have to restart a song after it stops playing due to not enough internet speed. It happens once in a while and I believe less as burning time increases.

My digital set up is:

Modem ADSL
Ubiquity Router
Uptone ER
SOtM SMS Ultra Neo SE
Audio-gd DI-20 with beta firmware
Audio-gd R8 DAC

Best sonic results with AES/EBU between DI-20 and R8.

 

[FredA]

There is a new review in Italian, very positive

https://www.audiosinapsi.it/hi-fi/s...gd-di-20-e-di-20-he-via-maestra-verso-la-i2s/

 

[ProLoL]

Parallel mode is the clear winner here over series.

 

[Wynnytsky]

I still don't have fiber and I'm using ADSL.

when I hear that I imagine the person lives in some picturesque country side

The problem also happened, and more often, with my Gustard U16.

and you were also using the sMS-200ultra Neo as well?

We'll have a covid vaccine before anyone solves this di20 issue. Even an audiophile transport can suffer, and then someone like me using generic DIY win10 computers is enjoying trouble free use.

My friend's w4s 10th anniversary dac has a "Jitter Eliminator" setting that allows him to set the size of the 'window' employed by the 9038 chip when tracking a signal. The larger the window the more tolerant it becomes of a poor signal, but at the expense of imaging/focus/etc. So you drop it as low as possible w/o getting dropouts. He told me he's able to turn it off (using a DIY win10 computer). Perhaps we need something like this on the DI20? It can also be a good metric of how "good" our transports are. What we don't want is for Qingwa to lock in conservative tolerances.

 

[FredA]

For those who want the vaccine. For a thing that kills no more than the flu... I need a 10M clock input much more than any aprenti-sorcer remedy. My immune system is working just fine as it is. Give me
C19, I will kill it like a stupid bug.

 

[DecentLevi]

I thought some of you may be interested in my findings which gave a further leap in performance of the DI-20: using ferrite beads on the power cable going into the USB purifier device the leads into the DI-20, as well as on my headphone cable. Link here.

 

[Wynnytsky]

I need a 10M clock input much more than any aprenti-sorcer remedy.

Alas we're the 0.05% minority in greater need of a 10M input more than drugs

@DecentLevi
Those snap-on ferrite cores really do have an impact on the highs, and I used them liberally in years prior, even on the hookup runs to my compression drivers where they truly threw-out-the-baby-with-the-bathwater. I went nuts with the LPS DC cables and even went inside the SU1 and covered every inch of that DC cable. While they mitigated fatigue they also detracted from the rawness/zing/excitement/involvement -- similar to over-treating my room with absorption. So for me it fell in the category of being the bandaid masking the symptom instead of addressing the cause. I tend to think it was the 10M clock that allowed me to shed a USB reclocker and all the ferrites. Hopefully operation warp speed will ship me a dac with a 10M input and then I can really get my fun on.

 

[Jackula]

I took out my ISO Regen from my DI20HE for about 2 days to see what the sound differences are, it's been awhile since I last did this and I got a much shorter and better sounding USB cable now and was wondering if I still needed the ISO or sell it to someone who needs it. And the short answer is "absolutely!" Without it the most obvious difference is a hardness in across the frequency, last night listening to Eva Cassidy her voice lacked the usual expressiveness. Adding back the ISO Regen, voices sound natural again, treble lost some sibilance, and bass was better defined. Don't think I'll be removing my ISO Regen, like ever. Ymmv though.