[Jackula]

Whether an audiophile switch improves things for you or how much it improves, is really situational.

My switch is 20m away from my listening room, and adding an audiophile switch in my room made no difference. However if your audio equipment is in closer proximity to a network switch, or have wireless running, then it will make a good improvement.

Lots of things you can do just by introducing an air gap rather than spending hundreds to thousands on audio gadgets. When I was running tube gear, simply leaving my phone outside the room made everything sound a lot better.

 

[jase01]

I’m new here, and first want to say a huge THANK YOU to everyone for their comments on this thread. Like many I’ve had significant issues with the firmware upgrade process over the last few months, ultimately solved with the help of all you, especially frizzup, and eventually the input of a programmer friend who was able to perform the upgrade for me.
Quick question: has anyone on v4.07 tried running test tracks to confirm right and left channel? Mine are reversed. Having checked all cable connections a dozen times and run through everything else I can currently think of to explain I’m at a loss, so wondered if others are having the same experience?

 

[ProLoL]

I’m new here, and first want to say a huge THANK YOU to everyone for their comments on this thread. Like many I’ve had significant issues with the firmware upgrade process over the last few months, ultimately solved with the help of all you, especially frizzup, and eventually the input of a programmer friend who was able to perform the upgrade for me.
Quick question: has anyone on v4.07 tried running test tracks to confirm right and left channel? Mine are reversed. Having checked all cable connections a dozen times and run through everything else I can currently think of to explain I’m at a loss, so wondered if others are having the same experience?

Are you using I2S out?

 

[jase01]

No, USB in and AES/EBU out

 

[ProLoL]

Ah I see, well if it was the i2s out to not an audio gd dac, the reverse could happen duo to different hdmi pin configurations, happened to me with my U12 and therefore couldn't use it's i2s, even If I did just reverse the cables, the highs rolled off severely.

 

[jase01]

Good point and thanks for the suggestion, but yes, hard to see how even I could misconfigure a USB or AES/EBU cable . Everything else is as it was a few months ago when my DI-20 was last functioning and at that time the channel reversing issue wasn’t present.

 

[ProLoL]

Has anyone tried to compare the DI20 with amanero drivers vs no drivers? My U12 was significantly better without drivers.

 

[Oepsie]

Good point and thanks for the suggestion, but yes, hard to see how even I could misconfigure a USB or AES/EBU cable . Everything else is as it was a few months ago when my DI-20 was last functioning and at that time the channel reversing issue wasn’t present.

You say that the channel switching was not there before?

I actually experienced this at one point - that the channels got switched. I use the coax out. It didn’t even go away when I completely turned off everything! I did this several times, no change. The only thing that worked was when I plugged in another converter (my gustard u12) - I was getting paranoid at that point!! - then the u12 had the channels correct again, and switching back to the di20, the channels were then correct again! Crazy.. Was very strange (and had my hifi friend as witness, else I would not believe me ). My experience seemed like a driver thing om my streamer, not something with the di20. It took a re-initialization of the streamer to revert channels back again. Or something..

 

[Wynnytsky]

No, USB in and AES/EBU out

Is it the same for PCM and DSD (or are you converting everything to DSD)? What does your middle letter show?

it's confusing that the docs use the term "swap" while the LED display shows "I" for inverting (suggesting phase)

and if you're using win10 then I would compare the behavior between asio, wasapi, and direct sound.

 

[jase01]

Thanks for your comments all. Update is that 24hrs on from restarting the DI-20 and finding the left and right channels reversed, having made no changes at all the channels are now correct! If my partner hadn’t heard the Left & Right channel test tones last night and tonight also, and confirmed what I heard, I’d have thought I was going mad!! I‘ll check in again periodically over the next couple of days and keep you posted. Thanks again for the input so far.

 

[DecentLevi]

Hey guys is there any consensus about whether a USB input to the DI-20 with power signals disconnected makes any audible improvement? And was this said to cause any issue with boot-up of the DI-20? And which device or adapter is the most recommended for this? Or would a sort of USB galvanic isolator be more beneficial for the cleanest USB power into the DI-20? Those can be much more expensive than the power-removal hack though.

 

[ProLoL]

Hey guys is there any consensus about whether a USB input to the DI-20 with power signals disconnected makes any audible improvement? And was this said to cause any issue with boot-up of the DI-20? And which device or adapter is the most recommended for this? Or would a sort of USB galvanic isolator be more beneficial for the cleanest USB power into the DI-20? Those can be much more expensive than the power-removal hack though.

Kingwa wrote not to use any external isolator. I'm blocking my 5v pin on the USB, the results are tiny even though the power in my apartment is very dirty. With other DDC's blocking the 5v brought huge improvement so that shows the DI20 psu is great. I tried using ifi Ipower to power the usb, the DI20 rejects it. I recommend using the DI20 as is.

 

[rsbrsvp]

Kingwa wrote not to use any external isolator. I'm blocking my 5v pin on the USB, the results are tiny even though the power in my apartment is very dirty. With other DDC's blocking the 5v brought huge improvement so that shows the DI20 psu is great. I tried using ifi Ipower to power the usb, the DI20 rejects it. I recommend using the DI20 as is.

I have experimented with several regenerators/isolators including the Regen ISO and the SOTM ultra--- and in my system both damage the sound by rounding off detail. I basically agree that nothing- or at least nothing with active power should be between the computer and the DI-20HE;-- and for sure disconnect the v-bus component of the USB cable after the initial handshake. I accomplish this using a dual headed usb cable with desperate v-bus and data lines to my computer.

I have found that a Jitterbug filter (which is a passive filter) attached to my computer's usb output is an exception and improves results. It increases resolution instead of rounding off detail. I do not know why it works but it does.. It is the only component between my computer and DI-20HE which makes things better and not worse for me. And the best news is it costs around $50!!! There is perhaps a small trade off in that focus is noticeably improved at the cost of a bit of soundstage contraction- but I am happy with the tradeoff....

 

[DecentLevi]

I have actually been getting FANTASTIC results with the old Schiit Wyrd USB 'decrapifier' between my PC and the DI-20. I used to go with that plus the iFi iPurifier 2 USB together, but since the 4.07 firmware update I tested it again and noticed it sounds more pure & robust with only the Wyrd. It really does a great job cleaning up the sound from the PC. It's a discontinued item though you can probably find one used for very cheap.

 

[rsbrsvp]

I certainly believe you and furthermore I would say it is completely illogical that something like and ISO Regen would cause any damage. It is regenerating a signal which must be substantially better than the one delivered by my mac mini. My mac uses a dirty switching power supply full of jitter and the Regan ISO uses a vastly superior LPS and excellent clocking; but nevertheless my ears hear damage. I have tried the regen ISO many times and it is not to my liking. The SOTM is better but still better is NOTHING IMHO.

My conclusion although I can't say why technically is that to much re-clocking and re-generating deteriorates sound. How much is too much? Each one of us needs to find out by experimentation in our systems.

And make sure to disconnect that v-bus line of the usb cable between the computer and the DI-20.