any mountain bikers here?
Apr 11, 2002 at 2:37 PM Post #46 of 58
Okay, there's a lot of good advice here.

dcg,

If you're a beginner, and not completely familiar with bicycle mechanics, an equally important consideration is the particular bike shop you purchase from. I would say take your top three choices and buy the one carried at the best shop in your area.

They should offer:

--expert advice on fit
--at least a free 30 day tune up

As mentioned earlier, fit is most crucial to your riding efficiency.
 
Apr 11, 2002 at 4:03 PM Post #47 of 58
I still have a GT Zaskar LE w/ full XTR I purchased in 1993. Good ride--aluminum frame and very stiff tail. Good, but not great. Having come from a road-riding background, where only steel will do, the feel of aluminum is not very nice. I would suggest, if this is your first mountain bike, getting something other than an aluminum hardtail. Either get rear suspension or go for steel/titanium/carbon fiber.
 
Apr 12, 2002 at 2:30 AM Post #49 of 58
Quote:

Originally posted by Audio&Me
If you are a newbie to mtbing, and want to get good real fast, best way to do it is to get a pos fixed gear ratio bike (1-speed).



Whaaat?!?!
eek.gif


Explain.
 
Apr 12, 2002 at 3:42 AM Post #50 of 58
If you have sucky equipment, you gotta compensate with good performance on your part. Thus forces you to adapt, which in turn improves your skill. It's crude, but works.
 
Apr 12, 2002 at 4:03 AM Post #51 of 58
Yep...I am considering going down the singlespeed route. I know in the short-term I am going to regret every second of it, but in the long term I hope to become a better rider
biggrin.gif
Anyways...if the singlespeed thing is too hard for me I can just save up my pennies and retrofit a tasty Rohloff 14-speed hub gear in the rear!

Cheek out the very sweet "In Bred" from On-One bikes

http://www.on-one.co.uk/products/index.shtml

Also...you may want to check out Marin Bikes. I think MacDEF recommended these earlier. I was in my LBS this morning and saw a rather tasty Marin front suspension MTB with a Colombus Steel frame. It was marked at AUS$1990 which would probably equate to about US$1000. From what I saw it was a mix of LX/XT components, V-brakes, Mavic X223 rims and Manitou MARS forks.

Cant get onto the Marin website, but here is a link to the bike in the UK. It is the Marin "Pine Mountain"

http://www.freetownsports.co.uk/shop...nemountain.asp
 
Apr 12, 2002 at 6:12 AM Post #53 of 58
Yeah, when I get home I am going to take my dad's old steel specialized rockhopper and turn it into a single speed. It will be fun. I love tearing apart bikes and putting them back together again, especially when you are not dealing with your really good bikes. I am too afraid to really tweak out my Mt. Tam, because I don't want to have to shell out the dough to replace any XTR or XT components that I may break. With a 10 year old bike, it is a lot easier to just go all out. I guess it is sort of like doing DIY mods on a CMOY instead of a Sudgen...
Singlespeeds will also make you stronger faster. Sure, you may not be able to do all the steepest stuff, but going up a regular hill becomes much more difficult when you have only one gear -- espeically one that has to carry you at normal speeds on level ground. You are out of the saddle more, which builds strength faster (at the expense of endurance, which you build with high sustained cadence). AHHHHHHHH All this talk makes me want to ride my bike, but I am separated from her until July! I hate these long distance relationships.
 
Apr 12, 2002 at 1:27 PM Post #54 of 58
I have some stuff I was putting together for a killer commuter bike when I got hit with Condramalacia in both knees (sniff). Anyway, it's all for sale.



Mavic Pro crankset (new in box) $150.
I72.5mm, same style used by Greg Lemond when he made his Tour comeback in '89. Lowest Q-factor ever--beautiful.


Mavic triple ring adaptor (new) $20
Adapt the Mavic crankset to a triple ring


Campangnolo aluminum toeclips (medium) (new in box) $20
Gorgeous.


Suntour Superbe Pro road pedals (new in box) $90
Old style toeclip road pedals. Not as boutique as Campy but the bearing action is impressive.


Suntour Superbe Pro brake set. (new in box) $65
Very sweet, polished finish. Single pivot, cables not included.


Suntour Superbe Pro non-aero road brake levers (new) $20.
The cables exit from the top. Black hood covers.
 
Apr 14, 2002 at 1:44 AM Post #55 of 58
Another question: are bike dealers generally open to negotiation on prices? Should I expect to get water bottles/cages/etc thrown in with the sale? I guess the beginning of the summer isn't the best time to look for deals, but what has been your experience in terms of haggling over price/extras?

Right now, I'm looking at the Trek 6500/6700, Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, Kona Cinder Cone, and I guess the Rainier, but the others are higher on the list at the moment.
 
Apr 14, 2002 at 2:07 AM Post #56 of 58
dcg -

can't really comment on what is universally done. my shop pretty much charges full retail for current merchandise, and often has markdowns on leftover past-years' stock. I never really haggled with them, and paid full retail for my bike. They do have great techs working in both stores (one local and another in a suburb nearby) who seem to know their sh..er..stuff. And they offer free basic maintenance whenever I want to bring the bike in.

Discounts off of retail will probably vary from brand to brand even within the same bike shop, too. Low to mid-level Giant, Trek, Raleigh brands tend to be discounted more often, and are the brands often seen as overstocks the next year. Cannondale (my brand) is almost never discounted, and has more limited inventory runs so is rarely overstocked. You may get lucky though.

Nothing is absolute. As I always say, it's worth a shot so why not ask? But don't forget that you get what you pay for, too.
 

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