[jpelg]

dcg -

stymie is absolutely correct in his comparison of the component specs in the bikes you mentioned. In general, to get the best bike for your $$, plan to do without disc breaks, rear (& maybe even front) suspension. Go for the best frame you can buy, along with the best component line (get at least Deore or higher). I personally prefer Shimano's Quick-Shifters with the triggers at my fingertips, rather than the SRAM Grip-shift style - but that is very personal.

Also, you may need to factor in a good rack for your car?

 

[dcg]

jpelg-
I din't know if you checked the specs on the Rainier, but can you or anyone tell me where they skimped? I had the same question as you guys - the brakes are apparently $100 a pop, and from what I hear the fork's not bad either. Obviously, they must have cut some corners somewhere, but it seems to have a lot of Deore components (and a Deore LX rear derailleur). When the guy at the shop showed it to me, my first thought was that Giant went for the gimmicks at the expense of a more balanced setup, but the guys at MTBR.com are gushing over it (BTW, is MTBR considered a bit more reliable that audioreview in terms of its reviews?)

 

[myke]

Yes, the avid dsic brakes are pretty sweet. But I think it's less than $100 each- still it's one of the better mechanical (as oppose to hydraulic, which happens to be more expensive) out there. The Marzocchi EX fork is probably the lower end (perhaps OEM only) fork in Marzocchi's line-up though I don't doubt that it performs as well as their better offering (I have their Bomber Z1 on my bike). I don't think they've cut a lot of corners- you basically get a bike that 3 years ago you'd probably have to pay in the $1000+ price range. Giants being one of the biggest (perhaps the biggest) bike company do have an advantage when purchasing parts over smaller companies.



Quote:

Originally posted by dcg jpelg- I din't know if you checked the specs on the Rainier, but can you or anyone tell me where they skimped? I had the same question as you guys - the brakes are apparently $100 a pop, and from what I hear the fork's not bad either. Obviously, they must have cut some corners somewhere, but it seems to have a lot of Deore components (and a Deore LX rear derailleur). When the guy at the shop showed it to me, my first thought was that Giant went for the gimmicks at the expense of a more balanced setup, but the guys at MTBR.com are gushing over it (BTW, is MTBR considered a bit more reliable that audioreview in terms of its reviews?)

 

[jpelg]

dcg -

I din't know if you checked the specs on the Rainier, but can you or anyone tell me where they skimped?

Actually, the Rainer seems like a great value overall. I cannot comment on the frame, but Giant bikes are usually heavier than comparably priced bikes. This can be for a variety of reasons including the frame itself, or the other components on the bike. I personally would not go for the disc-brakes at this price (actually I would not get them at all, nor would I even look at rear suspension at any price). They cannot be of great quality, definitely too heavy, and are probably prone to problems which you will have to maintain. If you really need a bike with disc-brakes (like if you do serious downhill racing), then you really need a more expensive bike all around (>$1500). If you can get something that has the basic features of the Rainer, without the fru-fru (like those discs), you would have a really good value.

 

[stuartr]

The areas that bike manufacturers usually skimp are in bottom brackets, cranksets, headsets, hubs and pedals. Especially bottom brackets, spend 2000 bucks on a bike, and they will still toss in an LX instead of an XT or an XTR (not really necessary unless you are racing...even then, it is just a couple of grams that probably added strength...). To add insult to injury, the bottom bracket is often loose. It is supposed to be tightened at the factory, and the LBS is supposed to check it, but they rarely do. If your bike makes strange squeeking noises in the higher gears, it is probably a loose bottom bracket. Headsets are also very important, as they take an enormous amount of the stress from the ride, even if you have a suspension fork. Go Chris King if you want a headset that you will put in, and never have to worry about ever again. You can also transfer it to each new bike you get, as it will likely last longer than any other part on your bike -- they are that good. Unfortunately, they cost over 100 bucks, which is why I still have not gotten one. Even with its quality, it is hard to lay down that kind of money for a headset. But, should your stock one break, definitely replace it with a King.
I agree with jpelg, don't go with disc brakes in your price range...they are an overkill, and will add a lot of weight and cost to your bike. Get some good v-brakes. I like avid actually, even more than shimano. Either will do though.
Anyway, just some blabbering comments.
Stu

 

[Old Pa]

We call them all terrain bikes (ATBs) here because of the 10,000 lakes thing and the river bottoms. I got into ATBs after a 25 yr road bike history (still do that - it's different and fun, too).

My Cannondale F700 hardtail is a lot better bike than I am a rider. Better than trail running in the summer 'cause you're faster than misquitoes and deer flies. Something to do for sweat during the spaniels' spring and fall vacations. My associate has a Giant, which seems to be entirely adequate.

Snowmobile offroad trails cover great parts of MN and WI for aerobic workout; cross country skI trails in same area take you straight to aneorobic.

[size=small]BIG FUN. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED![/size]

 

[dcg]

Well, I just got a job (woohoo!) in Delaware, so I'm definitely holding off on buying the bike for now. As I said earlier, I think it'd be better to be near the place of purchase, plus I'll hopefully be getting some graduation cash which'll help to pay for the bike. In the mean time, I'd feel kinda bad test riding bikes at the local places knowing that I'm not going to be giving them my business.

I did talk to one of the local guys who carries trek and giant, and he pretty much was in agreement with jpelg and stuart on the disk break issue. Apparently the Trek 6500 and 6700 have a pretty good frame on them. The 6500 comes in around $700 and the 6700 around $850. Aside from the fact that I consider the 6700 a fair bit cooler looking, do you guys think the the upgraded parts are worth it?

For some reason, the Gary Fisher bikes look damn ugly to me, which is disappointing because I always remembered liking them in the past. I know it's a stupid reason not to buy a bike, but what can I say....

 

[Audio-Me]

old pa - all terrain, my type of riding.

andrew - I'm no fan of trek nor specialized, I don't recommend those, but who knows, still give em a try.

 

[Old Pa]

Some of these snowmobile trails are fairly interesting. Those guys have good motors and do not worry about grades. The folks who maintain the trails off season use whatever the county gives them, so you can go from undisturbed soil shot full of roots to gravel and hardpack with loose sand being the the other principally occurring feature. And bridges set for snowmobiles are a wonder to themselves. You crank, you crash, you give blood, you guzzle fluid, but (because of aforementioned deer flies and misquitoes) YOU DO NOT STOP. Really a good time. More tree trunks and technical stuff on the cross country ski trails, but all well worth the price of admission.

 

[kwkarth]

I've got an all aluminum Fisher that I love. I've had it a number of years. Worn out a couple sets of tires and a set of rims. Replaced complete groupo with Deore XT (brakes, deurailuers, crank, hubs, shifters, brake levers) Handle bars, stem, seat post, seat, yada, yada all upgraded... . Great ride. Yeah, I guess upgradeitis know no bounds!

 

[Audio-Me]

Shimano Deore XT... Nice stuff.

 

[kwkarth]

Picture

 

[stuartr]

Well, it appears as though the 6700 is a little more upgradeable. Should you ever want disc brakes, you have the proper hangers on the frame. Also, it appears to have a better fork, wheelset, brakes and pedals. For 150 bucks more, it seems like a good deal. You will get real v-brakes, an air fork (which is easier to fine tune to your exact requirements). I am not familiar with all the parts, as I have sort of been out of the biking loop this year (I have been living away from my bike in snowy, icy Russia), but I have had good luck with Bontrager's components. Most of the ones I have are Bontrager Race, but I imagine that their quality will translate to their more economical lines as well. All in all, I would go for the 6700 over the 6500, but I would still recommend fisher. Trust me, you will not be looking at your bike's paint job when you are negotiating single track. Furthmore, the coolest mountain bike is the one entirely covered in mud....don't buy on the basis of looks...if it really bothers you, just spray paint it black and have a stealth bike or something. No big deal.
Anyway, congratulations on the job, and good luck on finding a bike.
Stu

 

[jpelg]

[size=xx-small]you will not be looking at your bike's paint job when you are negotiating single track. [/size]

Ditto. in the MT world, as in headphones, beauty is as beauty does.

[size=xx-small]Anyway, congratulations on the job, and good luck on finding a bike. [/size]

Double ditto.

- j

 

[becomethemould]

i ride mtb as well. cant believe i didnt check head-fi for ages.. arghhhh

i have a 2001 kona stuff too, same as the picture posted by Serow.

your best bet is to buy a bike second hand. it is way better, because bikes depreciate by like half price in under 1 year. for servicing and stuff, just get your local bike shop to check it up.

a big mistake i think is to buy a low end mountain bike, as it's only really for people who aren't that serious, and aren't very good offroad if you dont have the skills. but i guess you are just starting out, and doing mostly on-road. i guess a second hand cheapo will be a bargin. i bought my 1st bike for $720AUS and sold it for $250 after 2 years. i didnt ride it much, though i ride alot more now

oh if you have no skills and dont really plan to go offroad, dont worry about upgrading because it's unlikely that you'll break anything. it's best if it's future proof, like disc ready, though if u reach the stage of discs on a lower end bike, it'll be just be wiser to get a totally new bike as the parts would be worn out and probably be obsolete, as your skills are way better than what the parts are designed for (suspension forks is a big thing)

hmm kona makes flashy bikes