[Progisus]

Can someone point me in the right direction for a thread related to HQPlayer settings? I wasn't able to find an active one.

I am trying HQPlayer with my TT2. I was expecting my CPU to be used a lot more than it is...it's making me suspect it might not be upscaling.

I haven't done any critical listening yet, just playing around to see how much I can push my computer with HQPlayer.

Any tips on pushing my CPU a lot more? I've even added a 256k tap Audeze convolution filter, still not pushing it much at all.

He

This is playing back a 192k flac file.

Head over to Audiophile Style. There are many HQPLAYER threads there. If you use roon then there is a thread there dedicated to hqplayer filters as well.

 

[Atriya]

I'm having some trouble figuring out the weakest link in my source chain (i.e. to identify what to upgrade next):

HQPlayer/PGGB upsampled to 24/768 on a gaming laptop
-> Ethernet cable -> Raspberry Pi 4 with HQPlayer NAA powered by Allo Shanti LPS
-> USB cable -> SRC-DX
-> dual BNC cables -> Chord Qutest powered by Allo Shanti LPS

The cables are all Wireworld (Ultraviolet 8 for the USB & BNC cables), and Chroma for the ethernet cable.

Would it be most beneficial to:

1. Insert something between the RPi & the SRC-DX, maybe an OPTO-USB, or an iFi product (iDefender powered by Shanti? iGalvanic?), or JCAT USB enhancer/isolator? Ideally something that doesn't need it's own power supply, so that I don't have to buy another LPS, OR
2. Replace the RPi with something else.
3. The above two ideas really boil down to how much of a difference the incoming USB signal makes to the output of the SRC-DX. I'm guessing there's no point in anything that re-clocks the USB signal, since the SRC-DX is a DDC itself?
4. Some other upgrade entirely (open to ideas).

 

[Triode User]

I'm having some trouble figuring out the weakest link in my source chain (i.e. to identify what to upgrade next):

HQPlayer/PGGB upsampled to 24/768 on a gaming laptop
-> Ethernet cable -> Raspberry Pi 4 with HQPlayer NAA powered by Allo Shanti LPS
-> USB cable -> SRC-DX
-> dual BNC cables -> Chord Qutest powered by Allo Shanti LPS

The cables are all Wireworld (Ultraviolet 8 for the USB & BNC cables), and Chroma for the ethernet cable.

Would it be most beneficial to:

1. Insert something between the RPi & the SRC-DX, maybe an OPTO-USB, or an iFi product (iDefender powered by Shanti? iGalvanic?), or JCAT USB enhancer/isolator? Ideally something that doesn't need it's own power supply, so that I don't have to buy another LPS, OR
2. Replace the RPi with something else.
3. The above two ideas really boil down to how much of a difference the incoming USB signal makes to the output of the SRC-DX. I'm guessing there's no point in anything that re-clocks the USB signal, since the SRC-DX is a DDC itself?
4. Some other upgrade entirely (open to ideas).

My experience is that the usb input to the src.dx makes a difference not least because the src.dx takes its power from the usb. I also find that the usb cable itself makes a difference. So I use a Sablon EVO usb cable and also have a PhoenixUSB between the source and the SRC.DX. I suspect that the 5V voltage in the Phoenix makes it a difference because that is powering the Src.dx. Whatever the reason that combination sounds so much better to me.

Also the bnc cables connected to the src.dx make a considerable difference. Of course I use my own Storm cables but there are many other options. Get some different ones on demo at the same time to compare or make sure they come with a full refund option until you find some that give you the sound you like.

 

[Atriya]

I'm having some trouble figuring out the weakest link in my source chain (i.e. to identify what to upgrade next):

HQPlayer/PGGB upsampled to 24/768 on a gaming laptop
-> Ethernet cable -> Raspberry Pi 4 with HQPlayer NAA powered by Allo Shanti LPS
-> USB cable -> SRC-DX
-> dual BNC cables -> Chord Qutest powered by Allo Shanti LPS

The cables are all Wireworld (Ultraviolet 8 for the USB & BNC cables), and Chroma for the ethernet cable.

Would it be most beneficial to:

1. Insert something between the RPi & the SRC-DX, maybe an OPTO-USB, or an iFi product (iDefender powered by Shanti? iGalvanic?), or JCAT USB enhancer/isolator? Ideally something that doesn't need it's own power supply, so that I don't have to buy another LPS, OR
2. Replace the RPi with something else.
3. The above two ideas really boil down to how much of a difference the incoming USB signal makes to the output of the SRC-DX. I'm guessing there's no point in anything that re-clocks the USB signal, since the SRC-DX is a DDC itself?
4. Some other upgrade entirely (open to ideas).

I realized that the BNC inputs of the Qutest have no galvanic isolation (source: Mr. Watts), and the SRC-DX has no galvanic isolation (mentioned by @GoldenOne earlier in this thread). So, adding isolation before the SRC-DX to protect from whatever noise the RPi generates could be the logical next step. I'm leaning towards an OPTO-USB from Audiowise: https://audiowise-canada.myshopify.com/products/opto-usb.

I was uncertain about whether I need just an isolator or something that re-clocks the signal in addition to isolating. It seems to me an isolator would be enough, since the SRC-DX would be changing the signal anyway.

 

[Atriya]

My experience is that the usb input to the src.dx makes a difference not least because the src.dx takes its power from the usb. I also find that the usb cable itself makes a difference. So I use a Sablon EVO usb cable and also have a PhoenixUSB between the source and the SRC.DX. I suspect that the 5V voltage in the Phoenix makes it a difference because that is powering the Src.dx. Whatever the reason that combination sounds so much better to me.

Also the bnc cables connected to the src.dx make a considerable difference. Of course I use my own Storm cables but there are many other options. Get some different ones on demo at the same time to compare or make sure they come with a full refund option until you find some that give you the sound you like.

Well, I just bought those Wireworld Ultraviolet 8 USB and BNC cables, so I'm not keen on swapping out those unless I'm convinced that they are the weakest link holding the system back.

The SRC-DX gets its 5V from the Raspberry Pi, and that is powered by an LPS, albeit an inexpensive one (Allo Shanti).

Innuos products, high-end power supplies and high-end cables are all out of my price bracket.

 

[sajunky]

@Atriya. If your gaming PC is connected to your home WiFi or use its own WiFi adapter, I would try the following:

Don't use a direct Ethernet cable connection from PC. Rather get a mini WiFi extender, not a fancy, but a basic model Netgear or Tplink 150/300Mbps 2.4 or 5GHz, depends on your home WiFi. Such devices are available starting from $15. Plug it to the same multiplug as RPi4, src.dx and a DAC, then connect using a short Ethernet cable to RPi4. Your WiFi extender device will work as a wired Ethernet adapter (as seen from the RPi4). The extender will configure automatically, RPi4 may need to be reset to the automatic mode.

 

[adrianm]

@Atriya. If your gaming PC is connected to your home WiFi or use its own WiFi adapter, I would try the following:

Don't use a direct Ethernet cable connection from PC. Rather get a mini WiFi extender, not a fancy, but a basic model Netgear or Tplink 150/300Mbps 2.4 or 5GHz, depends on your home WiFi. Such devices are available starting from $15. Plug it to the same multiplug as RPi4, src.dx and a DAC, then connect using a short Ethernet cable to RPi4. Your WiFi extender device will work as a wired Ethernet adapter (as seen from the RPi4). The extender will configure automatically, RPi4 may need to be reset to the automatic mode.

I haven't tried this, but i can confirm that plugging the gaming pc into my power conditioner makes a massive difference.

 

[sajunky]

I haven't tried this, but i can confirm that plugging the gaming pc into my power conditioner makes a massive difference.

^^^ This confirms your PC is a source of trouble. Now with WiFi extender you can keep PC out of your audio power distribution.

 

[Atriya]

I haven't tried this, but i can confirm that plugging the gaming pc into my power conditioner makes a massive difference.

Even when, as in my case, it is not the gaming PC that is generating the USB signal to the SRC-DX/DAC, but rather connected via ethernet to a much cleaner device (in my case an RPi+LPS) acting as a streamer?

So, there's noise possibly being transmitted over the direct ethernet connection from the gaming PC to the RPi?

Unfortunately my WiFi situation is complex, but I could get something like this instead:

https://jcat.eu/product/net-isolator-gigabit-network-isolator/

 

[sajunky]

So, there's noise possibly being transmitted over the direct ethernet connection from the gaming PC to the RPi?

Unfortunately my WiFi situation is complex, but I could get something like this instead:

https://jcat.eu/product/net-isolator-gigabit-network-isolator/

Yes. And yes. However it is not so effective as a WiFi extender. And a cost....

 

[adrianm]

Even when, as in my case, it is not the gaming PC that is generating the USB signal to the SRC-DX/DAC, but rather connected via ethernet to a much cleaner device (in my case an RPi+LPS) acting as a streamer?

So, there's noise possibly being transmitted over the direct ethernet connection from the gaming PC to the RPi?

Unfortunately my WiFi situation is complex, but I could get something like this instead:

https://jcat.eu/product/net-isolator-gigabit-network-isolator/

Yes , but you might be overspending to improve the Qutest instead of just upgrading to a TT2 or something. Even For Dave i got sick of the hassle. All those isolators, help, but the fact that the effects keep adding up is proof none of them is perfect. I think the best thing to do is to make sure the audio stuff is on a dedicated/isolated circuit.

 

[Triode User]

Yes , but you might be overspending to improve the Qutest instead of just upgrading to a TT2 or something. Even For Dave i got sick of the hassle. All those isolators, help, but the fact that the effects keep adding up is proof none of them is perfect. I think the best thing to do is to make sure the audio stuff is on a dedicated/isolated circuit.

Exactly. I had a Qutest which needed a preamp and when I did the costings I sold the Qutest and the Preamp and bought a second hand Dave with the proceeds.

 

[Atriya]

Yes , but you might be overspending to improve the Qutest instead of just upgrading to a TT2 or something. Even For Dave i got sick of the hassle. All those isolators, help, but the fact that the effects keep adding up is proof none of them is perfect. I think the best thing to do is to make sure the audio stuff is on a dedicated/isolated circuit.

Fair point. One reason I keep the Qutest is that I split my year between two continents and need something that's "transportable". The Qutest may just be the highest-end DAC that's very small and relatively light. At that price point and above, DACs usually have power supplies built into them, but not the Qutest, which is an advantage in my case.

I'm thinking of getting rid of the RPi & ethernet cable entirely, connecting the SRC-DX to the gaming PC, but with an iFi iDefender. The iDefender has a 5V input that can be fed by my Allo Shanti, which completely replaces the dirty power from the PC with clean power from the Shanti.

 

[adrianm]

Fair point. One reason I keep the Qutest is that I split my year between two continents and need something that's "transportable". The Qutest may just be the highest-end DAC that's very small and relatively light. At that price point and above, DACs usually have power supplies built into them, but not the Qutest, which is an advantage in my case

I also travel on a monthly basis with Dave, but i do it by car so it's quite easy for me to throw it in a backpack.

I'm thinking of getting rid of the RPi & ethernet cable entirely, connecting the SRC-DX to the gaming PC, but with an iFi iDefender. The iDefender has a 5V input that can be fed by my Allo Shanti, which completely replaces the dirty power from the PC with clean power from the Shanti.

Unfortunately, it's not as straightforward. I found that the more psu's I've added in the chain, the more noise it adds. I've tested the following scenarios:
Gaming pc into Isotek Aquarius ->Jitterbug->Usb cable->sotm Tx Ultra USB+Farad PSU->SRC-DX-Dc-blocks->Dave. : TX ultra + USB added considerably more noise than nothing at all.
Gaming pc into Isotek Aquarius ->Jitterbug->Usb cable->Intona USB isolator->SRC-DX-Dc-blocks->Dave : A noticeable improvement, but i had also ordered a Genesis one regenerator for Dave. I was hoping that the Intona could negate the need to keep the PC in the Aquarius and i could get rid of it. Sadly even the jitterbug kept making a difference, and the Aquarius was still 70% of the equation. It also turned out that keeping the Genesis one plugged into the Aquarius and then DAVE had a considerable effect as well compared to plugging it into the mains.
At this point i was sick of the boxes and returned the Intona. an SOTM streamer +Farad sounded much better than it+ jitterbug anyway, but HQplayer seems to have software issues with SRC DX at 768. I keep getting static, which is why i never bought it and am still looking for a solution. the IFI Zen stream seems to be my last option if i want to keep using Hqplayer. Alternatively i might just get the Lina and replace this whole mess.

 

[Atriya]

I also travel on a monthly basis with Dave, but i do it by car so it's quite easy for me to throw it in a backpack.

Unfortunately, it's not as straightforward. I found that the more psu's I've added in the chain, the more noise it adds. I've tested the following scenarios:
Gaming pc into Isotek Aquarius ->Jitterbug->Usb cable->sotm Tx Ultra USB+Farad PSU->SRC-DX-Dc-blocks->Dave. : TX ultra + USB added considerably more noise than nothing at all.
Gaming pc into Isotek Aquarius ->Jitterbug->Usb cable->Intona USB isolator->SRC-DX-Dc-blocks->Dave : A noticeable improvement, but i had also ordered a Genesis one regenerator for Dave. I was hoping that the Intona could negate the need to keep the PC in the Aquarius and i could get rid of it. Sadly even the jitterbug kept making a difference, and the Aquarius was still 70% of the equation. It also turned out that keeping the Genesis one plugged into the Aquarius and then DAVE had a considerable effect as well compared to plugging it into the mains.
At this point i was sick of the boxes and returned the Intona. an SOTM streamer +Farad sounded much better than it+ jitterbug anyway, but HQplayer seems to have software issues with SRC DX at 768. I keep getting static, which is why i never bought it and am still looking for a solution. the IFI Zen stream seems to be my last option if i want to keep using Hqplayer. Alternatively i might just get the Lina and replace this whole mess.

Interesting. Have you considered the OPTO-DX or OPTO-USB?